[robscastle]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

Well I think I will make a bolt for the "workshop" and see how all this spirals out.

Stand by I may screw up!

Hey how does the Teleporter work? ...a blog would be good
BTW I think I may have dropped my wallet in your workshop some where its got a wad of cash in it!!

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

BTW I think I may have dropped my wallet in your workshop some where its got a wad of cash in it!!

- robscastle

Correction r'c'... HAD cash in it. Funny somehow the cash went missing and I also seem to have misplaced your wallet. I believe the salvos will send you a postage collect thank you note.

As for the Teleporter, it's not a home made job but bought in anticipation of me having issues with my steps after my 120th. birthday. However, if you want s sneak view try this.

 

[bj383ss]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

LBD I am not going to eat any greens but I am awaiting the next installment. Hopefully if I order some they won't take 6 months to get to Texas.

Bret

 

[Bluepine38]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

Good article, however, for us lazier people there is a threaded insert for wood that I have been using for a
long time. E-Z Lok is one of the manufacturers and they are available in most hardware stores and Home De
type stores. They offer a lag screw type thread on the outside and a bolt thread on the inside. With that said
there is something about cutting threads in wood that is more satisfying and challenging, both for the bolt
and the nut. I may not become proficient at it, but is fun playing in the shop and attempting it.

 

[andrewkleinWW]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

Thanks for this thoughtful and thorough (and funny) investigation of the taps.

- the accomplice

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

..... a threaded insert for wood …..

- Bluepine38

Thx for the feedback B'38. I am aware of those gizmos and "often" use them.

Unquestionably you can apply more torque using those, if required, but often you don't need that "degree" of torque. I even developed a methodology on my drill press to ensure I got a 90° seating of the insert (if you start it off wrong, it seats wrong… I've seldom experienced them self centering).

What spurred me on about wooden threads (for metal bolts), years ago when on a project (making a jig for a friend… long before I started to share my ideas… so no pictures) I had to use over 100 1/4" bolts using those same inserts. Now it wasn't a cost issue as I didn't have to pay for it but rather a supply issue. Those inserts are rare as hens teeth in Australia (or at least short supply…. hence my stockpile). Here in downtown Churchill it's hard to buy a paper clip let alone a threaded insert. Furthermore in rural Gippsland towns (which is about a 24K drive), retailers still adhere to the practice of Saturday afternoon and Sunday closing and a 160K drive to Melbourne is a tad overboard. Not that the trading hours is a major issue with me as I'm now retired (as I get older).

Bottom line, its not an ultimate solution, it is designed to inform woodworkers that haven't considered metal bolts in wooden threads and for those that have (and are sceptical) advise that is a fairly reliable option.

It's just a suggested alternative, similar to using wooden "bolts" instead of metal in accordance with the project's requirement, for example,

PS. I'm sure there may be someone out there blundering across this blog, who may not be aware of those particular threaded inserts, so this discussion has had that educational added benefit.

 

[robscastle]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

OK did a few tests and had unsatisfactory results.

So rather than post misleading information I have added only the M8 Drill Tap I have.

Can you take a look at it and do a comparasion with your TWW ones please?

120 YO? Bloody hell man you will not have any friends….we will all be dead!!... I antipicate going under in 15 years or earlier if out of my control.

Meanwhile if I dont kark it overnight I will do some more tests using different timber, nothing else planned as My life savings were in that wallet, plus thanks for arranging the Salvos to drop by with some food parcels!

P.S. Took a look at the site, I wanted to build something similar so I didnt need to haul groseries up the front stairs, I think they were called dumb waiters or similar. Does yours actually work?

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

.....120 YO? Bloody hell man you will not have any friends….

I don't have any friends now, so at least that wont worry me in the future!

..... Can you take a look at it and do a comparasion with your TWW ones please?

- robscastle

Interesting design. Looks like it pre-drills its own hole. That immediately raises alarms with me. If for no other reason, you need to drill a larger hole for hardwood than for softwood. To me it seems that the hole size will be restricted to the same size no matter what wood is used. Another shortcoming I can see is that both the drill and tap operation is done in the one step. I have in the past drilled the hole first and then flooded it with tung/burnishing oil before tapping. Lately if I want that added strength I apply some superglue after the drilling and before the tapping. I then re-soak it with CA and then give it another tap after it dries. In all fairness I haven't used that tap of yours so I'm only postulating and not in a comfortable position to comment further.

These are the two "type" of taps I used,

I use "type" as my tests were done using 10mm taps while pictured above are 8mm (same dimensions as yours).

With the TWW or any "standard" tap, you can decide on the size of the hole (within the acceptable tolerances) according to material type.

The good thing about standard (metal) taps is the diversity of materials it can handle, consequently it has to cater for the worst case scenario which is metal (to which it is configured)... and I'd rather have my head pummelled by a wooden baseball bat then a metal one… and people wonder why I'm dopey.

Now back to the TWW tap. It's thread specs are tighter than a metal tap, consequently it is a tighter fit. It has been designed specifically with wood in mind and the drill bit used is changed according to the timber's characteristics. For an 8mm tap, 5.5mm dia. hole for softwood and 7mm for extra hard wood are recommended. As you can appreciate, you have 4 drill bit options (5.5, 6 6.5 and 7) to play with according to your choice of timber (hell I should have been a salesman). There was a video on the net demonstrating the differences in resistance to lateral movement from a bolt using a standard tap and the TWW tap but I couldn't find it to post the link. However I can unashamedly confirm TWW's claim that the difference between the two is significant rather than just minor.
Another obvious bonus is that the TWW tap is 100mm long while the standard tap is 76mm (for the 8mm taps… other taps have varying sizes but the TWW is longer for all). This 33% extra depth capacity make blind hole tapping more versatile.

I think the bottom line is that standard taps are still usable, however, if you are convinced that metal bolts with widen threads is viable and you need to purchase a/some taps or prefer that added snuggness, the TWW would be a better choice (but at a few shekels more).

 

[robscastle]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

Thanks LBD I will bumble on and see if I can produce a better result, as you say there is not too much difference in the taps more the process, so I will see if I have a tap without the drill snozzle.

 

[robscastle]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

Update:
Nuts !! I gave up on the threading wood lark, I am a complete failure in that aspect.
So I ordered a series of inserts similar to your picture post.

Patiently awaiting the slow boat from China to deliver them.

hey I bought a good 12" saw blade on the net. its a Red Arrow brand cuts my Red Ironbark no worries.
just so happens the distribuitor is here in Brisbane, Auchenflower so I motored over on Sat and picked them up

https://www.ebay.com.au/b/Arrow-Saw-Blades/122837/bn_60545636

Thought it may be of interest

 

[WoodPixel]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

I bought the entire metric set and the dudes from TWW found two spare M6's they sent separately….

Ive used these on 3 projects so far and clients absolutely love them.

They are now one of my Secret Weapons to win quotes!

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

..... I ordered a series of inserts similar to your picture post….

https://www.ebay.com.au/b/Arrow-Saw-Blades/122837/bn_60545636

Thought it may be of interest

- robscastle

Plagiarist being my middle name, I decided to make one of these MFT tables, however, I forgot that I virtually have my mini workbench permanently mounted to my normal workbench and my pretty little design had a tad more than "slight" overhang,

Fortunately it was easier to move a 5/16" hole than a 1/2" hole for the inserts,

To take my saga of a "MFT" doplegagnger a step further, my intention is to flip the table upside down, reposition the risers and I can now use the bottom of the table with my Fetstool tracksaw and if I limit the kerf depth to the job thickness +1mm the damage to the table will be minimal and I get to preserve the aluminium track and anti-slip strips on the good flip side.

To take my soapbox agenda that step further, threaded inserts I have are 20mm long. Putting them into sheet goods less than 21mm would prevent usage from both sides (as I have done with mine). If you only intend to se 1 side this may not be an issue.

r'c', I checked out your Red Arrows and when the missus saw the 3X describing one of the blades, it earned me a slap on the back of the head…

.... I bought the entire metric set ….

- WoodPixel

'Pixie, In typical Ducky fahion, I went overboard and bought both sets. Found the imperial set ideal when I ran out of the 5/16" threaded XL Rockler risers (see above). Would be a tad difficult with threaded inserts unless one opts for big chunky timber to accommodate the 1/2" holes.

 

[robscastle]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

I watched some of Daves video, he does some very professionally presented presentations, although he must be single if he thinks he could have the gear on the kitchen table, dining table or under the bed for that matter.
Either that or he has a death wish.

Like some of the one hit wonders who heat stuff up in the kitchen stove and microwave, I saw a video of somebody heating up metal plates in the kitchen oven and doing something like veneer work on the bench top!! only saw him the once so no prizes for guessing what happened to him.

The 3X I have missed so I will go back an look again always on the lookout for something resulting in a slap.

Buddy reciprocation time.

 

[papadan]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

LBD, I'm waiting for you to make some wooden bolts and screw them into a steel block….....

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

... he does some very professionally presented presentations….

Not too shabby for a lowly non-Victorian Aussie.

... I watched some of Daves video, ....., although he must be single ….

That's what I thought first, but in one of his videos (and read his "ABOUT" - hey #4, if you happen to read this… I do read… under duress [my definition of vino]), he described he did it hard at the start and as he got older, why not indulge in some luxurious tools. He did say he had a very supportive wife and 2 understanding pug dogs.
I tend to share his philosophy…. when I see tools, I morph into a woman in a shoe shop… one (pair) is never enough (easier to walk when you have the pair) and "price" is no limit… we suffer the purchase the next day, much like the women trying to walk in those ridiculous heels on their next shopping trip (for more shoes of course)... well at least I'm still trying to master it and the heels continue to play havoc on my ankles.

Like some of the one hit wonders who heat stuff up in the kitchen….. no prizes for guessing what happened to him….
- robscastle

Preaching to the converted there r'c'... When I first moved into a run down shack (one of many… well 2), as it was winter and I had no real workshop,

so I welded my back gate frame in the kitchen (on a bare chipboard floor),

a fire extinguisher within reach permitted me to reach my 2nd. week in the "new" residence.
Nevertheless I learnt a valuable lesson that day… one should never weld in thongs (at least on the feet)... even under cover and the warmth of a kitchen in winter. Molten metal/slag smarts on bare skin.

 

[papadan]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

You win Duck, I have built a many carburetor on the kitchen table, but never welded in the house. ;-)

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

LBD, I m waiting for you to make some wooden bolts and screw them into a steel block….....

- papadan

I'm half way there ppd... I have managed to cross breed timber and plastic,

... but never welded in the house. ;-)

- papadan

Since then (circa 1990), neither have I… and I have retired my workshop thongs for steel capped boots.

 

[robscastle]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

Thats got to be the best looking screw I have seen in some time.

BTW 3X ….worked it out its on the ebay advertisment cannot see it warranting a slap though

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Metal bolts in timber threads.

Boys and Girls, if you are only interested in bargain basement solutions, please jump in the lift and press "G" for "Going Down to the bargain basement", exit the lift and go home without reading further.

I am here to readily assist you in parting with your hard earned shekels without remorse, and if you are interested in a better solution (at a cost), read on. No… I don't have shares in the product and the retailer is not related to the "waterfowl family Anatidae" (Ducks 2u).

In the past I have occasionally used metal bolts in timber by cutting the timber thread using an appropriate tap from a low end tap and die set.

I labelled the oft used taps so I didn't have to think each time,

Then one day when I was trying to find that elusive imperial bit of hardware in our local dedicated fasteners retailer, I saw a set of taps and associated drill bits designed to handle our standard metric hardware and advertised as specifically suitable for woodworkers. Being a sceptic, I was mesmerised by the ad and even though I thoroughly quizzed the sales person, soon after I was heading back to my workshop to test my new thread making kit.

I used to use this as a demo of wooden threads to woodworking guests in my workshop,

I'm not going to say that after that I always used metal bolts in timber threads, but when I have used them, I was never disappointed. I am continually amazed at the amount of pressure that could be applied before the humble timber turned into fire wood.

Back in February 2017 I saw this video about timber threaders being designed by "The Wood Whisperer " and an accomplice. Being a fan of timber threads I couldn't resist the temptation to place an order.

Today, August 2017 (a mere 6 moths later), my set of imperial and metric taps arrived. I immediately made a bee line (ok, teleported down using the phone booth) to my workshop and decided to compare my "original dedicated" 10mm tap with the newly arrived Spagnoulo (TWW) offering.

As always, it wouldn't be a Duck's Tale if I didn't digress. I was vaguely aware that my newly acquisitioned NOVA Drill Press had a tap feature and under duress, I quickly perused the instruction relating to that function.

After a few button presses, the drill was configured to do some tapping (if only it could do the same with beer).

While the speed is displayed as 900rpm, for tapping it was automatically reduced to 100rpm (what a bonus).

Now let's digress from the digression and waddle back to the story. I loaded each of the two 10mm taps and drilled the recommended holes.

Scurrying for a couple of 10mm bolts I was fortunate to find some as I would have had to tackle a couple of 12mm bolts with my die (and I didn't want to die today… never thought about tapping 12mm holes… DOH!).

After threading the two bolts, I tried the wobble test… I passed it with flying colours as I hadn't had a drink all afternoon, however, the original tap exhibited a slight wobble while the new tap was virtually immovable. Now I will reflect that I have not had any issues with the old threads as once the bolt was cranked up, all play was taken out. The TWW taps were designed with greater tolerances and to give you an indication, the old tap's specs recommended an 8.5mm hole while the new one's was suggested at 7.5mm. Overall the TWW threads were much tighter providing a more secure fit. As screwing progressed (hmm.. do you screw a bolt as you don't bolt a screw… preferably, unless your old… I digress if you hadn't noticed), I had to resort to using a spanner much earlier than the "original" tap.

Now not everyone taken in by my silken salesmanship will purchase the taps and then go out and spend $2,400 on a tap assisting NOVA drill press. Well for all you skinflints the TWW taps are just as much at home with the use of a drill (cordless, or for you senior seniors, a corded one) though variable speed is recommended.

When using the hand held drill, the lead in may not be exactly 90° but as you progress even just slightly in, it aligns with the pre drilled hole and creates as tight a fit as with the NOVA. The taps can be used in a drill with either a variable or hex chuck.

The new set is now ready to be bolted to the wall,

You may all wonder what was that lonely first picture doing… Well he's part of the following conspiracy in presenting my acid test to all you skeptics out there… you know who you are!

Drilled a hole in a piece of pine and tapped it with a 10mm bit,

Remember the first picture? OK, here it is again in case the grey matter is having a sabbatical,

Decided to attack it with an 8mm allen key from the safety of my mini vice,

After a significant amount of torque and fear of risking another hernia, I eased up on the bolt,

You may have noticed that the head "countersunk" a good 5mm+ into the pine without affecting the integrity of the thread.

You may say it's only pine… "It's only pine!" That is why I managed to countersink, hardwood would (pardon the stutter) provide greater grip and countersinking resistance.

What does all this mean? Anyone wants a set of metric taps with complimentary drill bits. I paid $90 for the set and am prepared to relinquish it to a friendly home for maybe a donation of a cask of vino (locally).

For all those not interested in this topic, please go back and re-read the 1st paragraph and don't bother to read the rest.

PS. If you all stay good Boys and Girls and eat all your greens, I may post a review about wooden threads. Some may scream NO MORE and by pure mathematics, the remainder didn't, but you'll all have nightmares wondering if and when.

.... cannot see it warranting a slap though

- robscastle

You're right about eBay ads… another reason not to trust them… had to do a bit of a gander (no I haven't had a sex change) myself…

Maybe the missus's optometrist deserves the slap. She misread the 3X,

as XXX.

 

[LittleBlackDuck]

Bottled sawdust

Boys and girls, I just finished watching another one of those videos where the author advises the use of sawdust in the glue squeeze out to create that seamless join especially when you finish up using a zig saw instead of the zag saw…
GREAT TIP!

Now if you are like me, there is never enough time to finish clamping before the glue starts to set, let alone go foraging for enough sawdust to mix into the squeeze out/gaps… and sometimes I have craters.

If you are a clean freak… OOPS, the shop would be spotless and if you are not then the sawdust on the floor should be contaminated by cigarette butts, empty tinnies and leftover micro-waved leftovers.

I went to my supermarket and could not find any bottled sawdust on the shelf; I lodged a serious complaint with the manager. Arriving home and failing a Google search, I decided to bottle my own brew.

I am a dust freak… (the missus says I use the word "dust" too freely…) so I have posse of cyclone collectors (Dust Deputies) front ends to all my dust collectors and shop vacs.

One of the DD's is for my sanding and from that I can harvest very fine sawdust. Another one "front ends" behind my mitre saw. This can supply me with the coarse dust.

Some of that dust I then sieve to give me the medium dust…, here's the proof,

Now a lot will say that the saw dust may not match the job… especially if you use diversified timber. I suggest farm more frequently after processing specific timbers… alternatively put some of that scrap we all brag about and spend a few hours making dedicated dust, bottle it

and try not to mix it up with your favourite alcoholic beverage.

Often you'll be caught with your pants down and don't have matching saw dust, I feel that a contrasting "hair line" is better than a gaping hole or congealed glue (often yellow, white or grey) that cannot be coloured without excavating the fill… and then you fill it with what?

Just make sure you have reserves and next to the project during glue up.

Hope this may inspire some to make some saw instead of the traditional bull.