The Godfather of this sort of work. George Nakashima. He rarely filled. Welcome Valerie.

http://www.nakashimawoodworker.com/

 

If you want a smooth top, you could fill the cracks with epoxy. Black would look good. Are you looking into any sort of mechanical method to stabilize those cracks?

 

Welcome to Ljs Valerie
The hairpin legs I've seen have a place bolts that connect to the bottom of table tops. Bill's link is a good one to show the possiblities for you wonderful slab. Filling the cracks is optional unless you feel the crack in your slab will alow it to break off. Many times when people want to fill cracks in slabs the use Epoxy glue and ad color to it to make it closer to some of the woods color.

http://lumberjocks.com/PittsburghTim/blog/31618

 

Welcome to LJ's! That is a wonderful slab; it is really your choice whether you fill the cracks or not. I made a dining table out of elm:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/78137
I chose to fill most of the cracks; I used Envirotech epoxy with black dye. It turned out nice but it was a tedious process filling the cracks and took many hours of sanding to level the epoxy smooth. The "bowties" or "butterfly" inlays on the end are partly for looks and partly to keep the crack from expanding.
I used 7 coats minwax tung oil on the table; it provides a bit of gloss and a bit of protection to the wood but also brings out some of the grain without looking plastic.

 

For the finish that will not look plastic…Waterlox Original. It's a very beautiful and complimentary finish to bring out the grain and still look natural. I would attribute it to a look similar to wiping some pure mineral spirits to the grain before the spirits evaporate. It will not significantly change the color of the wood either, maybe just a very slight browning effect. It's really easy to apply; rag and wipe on and let sit 24 hours between coats 2-3 should get your look. If you desire a smoother finish 2 or 3 coats (with appropriate curing periods) then LIGHTLY sand by hand with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Clean up the resulting sawdust and apply another coat. You can repeat this process to continue to build a finer finish. After 2 go rounds with this process I recommend waiting 48 hours between coats. Also, always make sure you clean off any dust that has settled just prior to applying the next coat and secure all dust producing sources and anything that could create a breeze around the project to keep of the small particulates that can settle on the surface while curing. Waterlox is my go to finish.

 

I would probably glue blocks to the underside of that tabletop and then screw/bolt the legs to the blocks. This will allow the use of bigger/longer screws without risk of penetrating/splitting the table top.

West System epoxy is my choice for filling cracks and knots.

 

It is beautiful. You might consider putting butterflies across the cracks to stabilize it. I would pour epoxy to finish. I like Andys (gfadvm) idea to attach legs.

Welcome to Lumberjocks

 

Perfect! Thanks, guys.

I don't mind the look or texture of the cracks at all. I'm just concerned about the table breaking because there are 2 long cracks that almost run the whole length of the slab. I'm thinking of doing something like this (see pic) but prettier. : ) I figured that would solve 2 problems - prevent the wood from breaking and give more depth for the leg screws since the wood is only 1 inch thick. The butterflies seem a little advanced. haha.

I'll check out your recommendations on finishes. Thanks!

 

I would fill the voids with epoxy also, you want this to last a lifetime. Also the blocks for adding the legs are a good idea seeing the slab is 1 inch thick. Maybe add 4 boards 1"x 3"each, all glued together to go around the metal legs so it will add more beauty to the legs. Just a thought. That is a beautiful slab. What did you pay for a piece like that?

 

Like gfadvm, I might glue blocks and then attach the hairpin
legs to the blocks. I think hairpin legs are kind of weak
aesthetically and with this approach you could chisel
off the blocks later and not have holes in the slab.

I'm not saying no to hairpin legs, just that you might
reconsider at a later time.

In terms of finish, I tend to use gloss film finishes and
rub them out to whatever sheen I want. A gloss finish
has a lot of toughness because less-glossy finishes have
"flatteners" in them and in the case of some finishes
these flatteners can introduce cloudiness.

I've recently done some chairs by padding on oil-modified
gloss waterborne polyurethane with excellent results. I
like a little more amber color than I got so I think in the
future I'll lay down a coat of orange shellac followed by
the padded-on poly. The finish done this way is so thin
it it almost imperceptible and runs and build-ups can
be cleaned up or smoothed out with a fingertip or
fingernail and gloves are not needed. The finish gets rubbed
out with synthetic steel wool and top-coated with
paste wax. Looks gorgeous with a mild, glowing sheen.

 

yeah, I had no idea wood was so expensive! i'm in los angeles so i did my research and found a family-owned place that is supposed to have the best deals (Bohnhoff Lumber Co). this piece was $192 before tax.

 

I buy there too.

 

That is a beautiful piece of walnut and IMO a decent price for it. Please post a follow-up once you get it as a finished project. For the price you paid, not much more for the hairpin legs, some labor and finish, you've got a fairly expensive table!

 

You mentioned it was going to be a table/bench. I think you're on the right track for an underside reinforcement if it's to be used as a table. My concern is whether or not it will be used as a bench someone might sit on? If that's the case I would lean more toward a traditional apron underneath to better support the flaws in the wood and give the legs more to mount to. The apron could certainly be set in from the edge a ways as to not detract from the natural beauty of the edge. The crack filling is purely preference, I will say that if I was making something that would regularly see food crumbs and/or condensation and spills from drink glasses, I would fill the cracks to prevent something from getting down in there that I couldn't get out.

 

I have a few more beginner questions & I can't send a private email until I have 5 posts so I'm hoping someone sees this.

A couple of you mentioned that you would "glue" blocks to the underside of the table. I'm assuming this is better than drilling the blocks in to the slab, so I'm going to go with glue. Which glue should I use? I don't know if something like Gorilla Glue is strong enough.

I've sanded the slab up to 220 for now (see updated pic) and just want to make sure I have the order of the next steps right. I don't want to screw it up. Does this order sound right?
1. fill cracks w epoxy
2. more sanding, 220
3. finish w waterlox or tung / let cure
4. glue blocks underneath (these blocks will already be sanded/finished)
5. drill legs to blocks
6. polish
Am I missing anything?

THANKS!

 

I'd glue the blocks on before you finish them or the table; otherwise it will be hard to get them to stick to the finish! As well, when filling the cracks with epoxy, tape around the cracks first with an easily removed painters tape, when you fill the cracks the epoxy will spill over onto the wood…if you tape around the cracks you have less sanding to do afterwards…

 

How thick is the slab? That will have a lot to do with which technique you use to attach the legs and add some form of cross grain support to keep the checking in check. I made a funny. If it's beefy enough a sliding dovetail
would be a great and very doable solution. Just fasten one end of it to allow for seasonal movement of the top. A slab that wide is going to move more than a bit. If it's not thick enough to machine in a shallow sliding dovetail screw cleats with slotted holes for the screws to allow for the expansion. That is a beautiful piece of lumber and i know it will be a beautiful table. Nakashima was the man but now his daughter is, she runs the shop.

 

Thanks, Manitario! I'll glue first. Any suggestions on what type of glue to get?

Mantwi, I have no idea what you just said, but thanks. Haha. The slab is about 1" thick.

 

Gorilla glue is very strong and waterproof when cured I use it for several indoor projects and all of my outdoor projects. One surface gets the glue, the other surface gets slightly moistened, not saturated or the glue won't creep into the grain as far as could have before setting begins. If you haven't used it before, it's messy! Thin disposable gloves are a good idea.

 

Are the cracks on one side or all the way through? If so you will have to tape them closed so the epoxy won't leek out.

 

If the cracks look like they might get worse, you may want to reinforce them. Either a butterfly cut in the top or steel strap underneath. I use epoxy to fill cracks and holes. Yes you have to put tape underneath if they go Al the way through. I try to use epoxy that sets up in a very short time so it minimizes leakage.

I would glue blocks on before finish. Some glue will not stick to the finish.

 

That really is a beautiful slab. Wish I had the rest of the tree it came from.

 

Any Titebond (I,II,orIII) should work to glue on the blocks. As you have already learned, glue the blocks first as glue doesn't work well at all over finish. The main reason I chimed in was to remind/warn you that you need to finish both sides of that slab, not just the visable top surface. The underside doesn't need to be sanded like the top but I would do the same number of finish coats on both surfaces.

 

If you decide to fill the cracks with epoxy do this first. Take spray lacquer and spray around the area to be filled. Then rub that area with paraffin wax. Make sure you over fill the area for it will shrink some when cured. After it has cured (24 Hours) take a sharp chisel to remove the protruding epoxy and then sand. Do not use water base ink in the epoxy. Go to an office supply for the ink, but not water based.

Looking to see the finished project.

Welcome to LJ's

 

If you are going to put any kind of finish on the "underside" glue your blocks on first before you finish w waterlox or tung oil . You have to glue bare wood to bare wood, so switch your steps #3 and #4 around, when filling the cracks be sure and put some tape on the underside of the table to keep epoxy from pouring through.
Good luck