[Rustic]

Drum Sander - The Video

I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:

Thanks Jeff

 

[JL7]

Drum Sander - The Video

I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:

Hey Rick - you're welcome…..

Ron and db - sorry for the crappy video - clearly not my calling, but I appreciate your tips….........look out YouTube…

Jeff

 

[Rustic]

Drum Sander - The Video

I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:

the vid was not bad for a beginner

 

[jockmike2]

Drum Sander - The Video

I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:

GREAT IMPROVISATION, I LIKE THE WAY YOU'VE HOOKED EVERYTHING TO RUN SO SMOOTHLY, GOOD VID TOO. THANK YOU.

 

[JL7]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

 

[grub32]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

Boy that turned out great…I dont have the incra fence but I have heard nothing but great things about it…You are going to love it. My Router Table and fence was the most valuable project I have ever built for myself and shop.

Grub

 

[JL7]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

Thanks Grub, The Incra fences are great, I have 3 of them actually, including the LS/TS table saw fence. I guess I'm hooked. I just fired it up a little bit ago, and the first impressions are good. Changing bits quickly above the table is superb!

I'll be working on improving the dust collection behind the fence…..short of buying the Wonder Fence, the Incra fences don't do that well at dust collection above the table…...

Jeff

 

[nobuckle]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

Dude you could park a truck on that thing. We used to use that same type of extrusion in a shop I worked at. If those were scrap pieces I'll give you my address and maybe you can send me some, lol. Where I live that stuff is about ten dollars a foot. You have the Mac Daddy of router tables. Way to go!

Doug, Ohio

 

[JL7]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

Hey Doug,

You're right, this stuff is super spendy. We paid thousands of dollars each for the original cabinets that I got. I have been working the angles for six monthes to get this material which was going to be sold for scrap value.

I have another set of casters plus enough extrusion to build another one, or….....something else…time will tell. Cutting the stuff square is tricky and kind of a pain. My 18" bandsaw has a metal cutting transmission on it, but I haven't fidured out how to make a square cut yet, so have to use the disc sander after each cut.

Not complaining, it's like pennies from heaven.

Jeff

 

[ChuckC]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

If there's ever a hurricane in your area, hide under that table
That router table looks great!

 

[mnrhuff]

New Incra Router Table

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff

Jeff, cutting the aluminum is actually Super easy to get a square cut. Just use your miter saw. The aluminum won't even bother a decent blade. I use a standard carbide blade on my delta sidekick to cut aluminum. Save your good blades for making sawdust…. and one for the aluminum stock.

 

[JL7]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

 

[Pawky]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

A very nice idea, thank you.

On a side note, that is also a beautiful looking cutting board! Do you have a picture of the whole board? What wood did you use? Thanks you

 

[JL7]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

Pawky - just posted some details on this board here

 

[Dusty56]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

Ahhhh…the bottom side of Board #2 : ) Love how you brought the end grains to life and now I can see the Yellowheart in this picture : )
Did you chamfer before or after you coved with the bowl bit ? I guess that would depend if you did the chamfer against a router table fence or with a router bit with bearing , ay ? LOL
Either way , nice work : )

 

[JL7]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

Hey Dusty - I chamfered first - not sure it thats right or wrong, but that's the routine I follow…..

 

[SPalm]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

Nice.
I was always wondering if a bowl bit would do a nice job for this.
I love the adjustable stop pegs. Clever.

Steve

 

[degoose]

Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….

Missed this first time around… very sweet… love the adjustable dowels…

 

[JL7]

Incra Router Table - More Progress.....

Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.

Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.

Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.

I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.

On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.

Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.

Thanks for looking,

Jeff

 

[jcwalleye]

Incra Router Table - More Progress.....

Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.

Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.

Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.

I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.

On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.

Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.

Thanks for looking,

Jeff

I'll be the first. Holy Smokes. Nice job.