How do you use it if you use Blum under mounts?

- AlaskaGuy

+1 AKguy I wonder how many caught, what you said. Daaah- then it clicked!

 

The same cut with standard TS blades

Setup is finicky, but works well.

 

The same cut with standard TS blades

Setup is finicky, but works well.

- splintergroup

I suppose I'm being dense again but if you use the miter fold blade how do you push the drawer bottom up 1/2 inch as required with Blum undermounts

 

The same cut with standard TS blades

Setup is finicky, but works well.

- splintergroup
I suppose I m being dense again but if you use the miter fold blade how do you push the drawer bottom up 1/2 inch as required with Blum undermounts

- AlaskaGuy

Not sure of the question, but the drawers need a bottom, recessed 1/2"?

Cut a dado in all 4 sides.

 

AK I beleieve is correct -

If you like your Amdy Klien blade, then best to you. This product is not for me…...

 

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No you do not, but then what exactly is the…...... or repeat. This product is not for me- Best to all!

 

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AK - I AGREE! look at my pic'c and they show what you are trying to state!
Your point is valid, but don't give up- just make them understand.

 

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AK- Goodnight

 

All I could figure is that you would have to add the 1/2 trim back onto the bottom.
That kind of defeats the purpose though!

 

Jbay- thank you and by the way that bookcase is "bomb"

 

All I could figure is that you would have to add the 1/2 trim back onto the bottom.
That kind of defeats the purpose though!

- jbay

In my view what's the point making a seamless material wasting drawer box and then start sticking pieces all over it to hide under mounts. I can't see any profession doing this. To my way of thinking/working this would be a stupid move.

 

All I could figure is that you would have to add the 1/2 trim back onto the bottom.
That kind of defeats the purpose though!

- jbay
In my view what s the point making a seamless material wasting drawer box and then start sticking pieces all over it to hide under mounts. I can t see any profession doing this. To my way of thinking/working this would be a stupid move.

- AlaskaGuy

Agreed!
That's why I said it defeats the purpose

 

If I were to buy this blade, it would NOT be to make drawer boxes. That seems silly to me.

I can totally see vinyl covered speaker boxes, or, contemporary veneered cabinets using this miterfold setup.

 

If I were to buy this blade, it would NOT be to make drawer boxes. That seems silly to me.

I can totally see vinyl covered speaker boxes, or, contemporary veneered cabinets using this miterfold setup.

- DS

Totally agree. In fact . I'd be wary of making drawers that get heavy use - the joint is all end grain to long grain and may not hold up . I bought this after completing two veneered nightstands in mid- century style. Veneering all the surfaces after assembly was a nightmare so, being able to pre- veneer some MDF and then make the cuts seemed the way to go.
So far so good. It needs careful set up with the shims to avoid gaps in the joint - breakthrough on the veneered top surface is a matter of tweaking the rise/fall of the saw.I also make jewellery boxes and the same principles apply. I'm not too worried about strength as they are not as stressed as drawers. I had to build a long sled however to crosscut the corner joints as even a 12×8 inch box needs 40" of wood around the perimeter. It seems well made and is not half the trouble as say Infinity's two router bit setup for the same joint.