The only problem I see is the orientation of the wood. For best results the boards should lay the length of the bar.
Wood expands across its width something outside will move a lot.
If you orientate the boards the same way in the picture you'll have to tongue and groove them. With big gaps for they will grow and shrink a lot until they get so warped they are stuck.

Good Luck

 

Not going to lie. That was a very deflating response. (Not your fault). I do not have boards long enough to do that, so I already processed all my boards to the shorter length. So now I guess the question is, is it too late to orient them the long way if I use multiple shorter boards to make up the total length? I guess I just didn't understand there was a difference between joining by width the short way as opposed to joining by width with longer boards. I thought it would be the same.

 

There's no reason to lay those boards lengthwise. If small gaps are allowable, use a thin spacer of around 1/16" or less between the slats so they can move. If you need a gap-free surface, consider some sort of ship lap, or any means to allow wood movement. The space between each slat doesn't need to be very wide since each individual slat won't move much.

 

Thanks Rich. So, the intent was to create a true table top. Is this still possible with the shiplap? Are you suggesting that I can use a shiplap joint and still be able to glue these together for a solid top?

 

I disagree with Rich. Cherry has a very high seasonal movement. It's really not that great of choice for outdoor projects. It's not just the field boards that will give you trouble I predict the apron around the edges is doomed to give you trouble.
Redesign Redesign

Good Luck

 

Thanks Rich. So, the intent was to create a true table top. Is this still possible with the shiplap? Are you suggesting that I can use a shiplap joint and still be able to glue these together for a solid top?

- Rylsngrd

No I'm not. Unless you isolate the movement of each slat, then the entire top will expand and contract with the combined movement of each slat and it'll be a mess.

 

Fundamentally, Aj2 is correct, but the method Rich mentioned will work.

Ship lap would be the easiest, tongue and groove another option. The key is fasten each board on the side holding the next board down. This allows the movement to go one way. If the boards are, say 6" wide, in this application you may need as much as 1/4" allowance for expansion.

Of course this depends entirely on your climate. If this is AZ or CO, you've got nothing to worry about.

The downside is a top with pretty big gaps, which for me would be a "no go" as the gaps will be a trap for debris, as well as moisture. If you do go that route, I would finish each board before installing in order to ensure the overlaps are sealed. All depends on how exposed it is.

My preference would be to simply do it like decking. This will avoid debris getting trapped and allow rain etc to pass through rather than sitting in the overlaps.

ALL THIS SAID, I have to agree with Aj2 you have not picked a good species of wood for this application.

 

Rich and Aj2 thank you for your input. I am taking that to heart.

Robert, unfortunately I live in Indiana. horrible swings in heat and humidity. are there ANY species that would be conducive to laminating? On top of the bartop, I was also planning on building a butcher block type piece that would serve as a pull out prep table. I am really wanting to see this design work, so if there is any advice available to accomplish a solid top and a solid laminate butcher block prep table top, I would really like to know!! I do plan on covering the bar when not in use, but that does nothing for humidity, I know.

 

You might could do it with some tropical species.

Ipe is highly rated, but expensive.

Angelim Pedra is used for decking on heavy equipment trailers in all weather, so it would work. Much cheaper, but less pretty.

I'm hardly an expert, so hopefully somebody will come along who has actually done it.

-Paul

 

You could make that work by getting rid of the apron and attaching the top to the base in a way that will allow for movement. Check out one of the wood movement calculators to get a feel. For example, I plugged in 8% MC initial and 12% MC final into one and came up with almost 1 inch movement over 96 inches. That's an amount you can work with. Pin it in the middle and allow for 1/2" movement at the ends.

 

The frustration you will have on a bartop is having a flat spot to place drinks, shakers, pitchers etc. IME, the slats will eventually get out of flat enough to make it annoying to set a glass down. I would consider getting a piece of glass to cover the top, at least the long part. Thats just my opinion, but good luck whichever route you choose.

 

I think your top would stay flat enough if you construct it properly and allow for movement. For this application, z-clips would be a good choice, since they slide in slots you cut on the inside of the apron. That means you can snug the top down to the frame, keeping it from warping, while allowing for a large range of movement. Figure 8s might not allow for enough movement. Use a z-clip every couple of feet and that top will stay flat.

Regarding biscuits, they might help you keep the slats aligned while you glue it up.

I see some "it won't work" comments. Don't let that stop you. Give it a go. That's how you learn.

 

What if I used this….

https://buyhardwood.advantagelumber.com/p-60-1-x-6-ipe-pregrooved.aspx

its a pregrooved Ipe flooring. this resists movement, I can get it in 11' boards and laminate like I wanted, yes?

 

Thanks to all for providing input. I have decided to change the design to the elongated pattern as some recommended and using Ipe as someone else recommended since after a bunch of research, this wood seems to be a very good wood for outdoor applications. I will be obtaining this from a flooring vendor as I mentioned previously as this seems to be the only way I can get it in a semi-reasonable price. To me $800 in lumber is a small price to pay to make the centerpiece in my backyard restaurant a reality. I will however, still be allowing for wood movement the best I can. I have my reasons why I need this to happen, and happen with hopefully very little issue in a short time frame. I wish I had the luxury of trial and error, yet this will be a learning experience just the same. Wish me luck! Thanks Jocks.

 

Follow the recommendations for fasteners with Ipe. It's a very hard wood and must be predrilled for most fasteners. They have decking fasteners that are hidden from below somehow. Talk to Advantage to find their recommendation.

 

Thanks Ocelot, will do. Yes, I have seen how hard and strong it is even compared to teak. Looking forward to working with it and getting this bar built, for sure. The cool thing about buying decking is its already machined to size for the most part. crossing fingers this allows me to do what I need.

 

Thanks Ocelot, will do. Yes, I have seen how hard and strong it is even compared to teak. Looking forward to working with it and getting this bar built, for sure. The cool thing about buying decking is its already machined to size for the most part. crossing fingers this allows me to do what I need.

- Rylsngrd

Sounds like a plan. Definitely want to predrill as mentioned, and be mindful when driving the screws. Once the head strips its VERY hard to get those stainless screws back out. They have the kit there on that page with the clips and drillbit and screws etc. And wear gloves! Those splinters suck! I've done quite a bit of decking with Ipe. I hate working with it, but it holds up well. I usually just anchorseal the cut ends and apply a nice penofin every year or so. I do like the grey it turns to without finish but i have found that eventually some of the boards will crack/check/warp if unfinished.