[OCG]

Building the Molds

Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.

The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. Picking Up refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.

Next is building the strongback and placing the molds.

Mold Materials List:

• (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
• (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36

- Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours

thank for posting
it will be nice to see this go forward

 

[matt1970]

Building the Molds

Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.

The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. Picking Up refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.

Next is building the strongback and placing the molds.

Mold Materials List:

• (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
• (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36

- Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours

this is insane…I AM FAR AWAY FROM trying this…but loving the detailed steps…

 

[mattd]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

 

[Beginningwoodworker]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

Looks nice!

 

[a1Jim]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

looks good look forward to more.

 

[Splinterman]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

Hey Matt,
Looking good…...but…......just a small suggestion….....to reduce lateral deflection in your jig, screw two vertical 4×2 to a 4×4 foot plate and mount it in the center of your jig….......trust me…....it will bend over time…...been there done that.

 

[JoeC61]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

This looks like a great project! We recently visited Grand Marais, MN, on the north shore of Lake Superior. There's a school there called the North House Folk School (http://www.northhouse.org/) where boat building such as this is taught (among other wood working classes, timber frame, log home…).
Seeing your project makes me want to sign up!

 

[mattd]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

Splinterman - Thank you for that suggestion. I'm going to add that center support.

DaveR - To make the stem, I plan to make a pattern picked up from the lofted plans and then cut the stem from the template. The stem will be a single curved piece of white oak with a knee section to join to the keelson and keel. 1.5" thick. I'll carve out a rabbet for the planks to fit into.

 

[cylis007]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

I am really enjoying following your progress. Great work! Thanks for sharing.

 

[matt1970]

Strongback

The strongback is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.

Strongback Materials List:

• (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
• (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
• (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
• Total for above: $33
• Misc nails and scrap lumber

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours

great stuff…

 

[mattd]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

 

[a1Jim]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

looks good look forward to more

 

[a1Jim]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

looks good look forward to more

 

[Karson]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

matt: it looks great. I'm going to be sure and follow along.

 

[itsarvninea]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

great work Matt look forward to watching your progress

-Steve from Bernhards Bay New York

 

[dog2bert]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

Good progress has been made

 

[patron]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

great progress ,
and your running score on the materials
and money is really inspiring to all im sure !
the term is a " rolling bevel " for the transom edge .
also on planking .

 

[mattd]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

Patron - I'm hoping the running costs continue to be inspiring! I just ordered the bolts and screws. It was a somewhat painful choice to go with silicon bronze for a cheapskate like me, but I want this to be around for a long time.

Thanks for the tips on lofting the fasteners by the way. I wouldn't have done that and I'm seeing the importance of it already.

 

[matt1970]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

thanks for sharing all this…

 

[Splinterman]

Building the Transom

Completed the transom today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.

This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw both profiles on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.

After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.

Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.

Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!

Next Step

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

Transom Materials List:

• G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
• (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
• (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

Project Materials Summary:

• Plans and Book: $60
• Lofting Supplies: $47.88
• Mold Supplies: $36
• Strongback Lumber: $33
• Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

Labor Hours Summary:

• 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
• 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
• 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
• 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours

Hey Matt,
The Transom came out real nice…but…try and use use the two following very expensive products in your building process and you wont go wrong.
Very hard to find these products but I know you will…....They are called…."Attention to detail" and the most expensive one…"Tender loving care". It's your new baby Matt, so treat her well.