Good morning,

I have a Bosch 10" portable TS with a gravity rise stand from Home Depot. I've had it a few years and am very happy with it. I have nothing to compare it to however. The fence doesn't slide smoothly, but I find it accurate.
I bought a Freud Dado set and a laminate blade, and it's done everything I need it to do.

The stand is easy to use, and puts the saw up on its side for storage against the wall.

I'm sure there are better saws out there, but if you need portable, this one works for me.

All the best

 

I think the answer to that could very well depend on what your budget is. Are you looking for a purely portable saw or would a stationary one be okay? You would probably be well served scouring your local Craigslist too. Here's a listing of table saws in Boise: http://boise.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=52&subAreaID=&query=table+saw&catAbb=sss

There looks to be a couple decent ones on there.

Ridgid TS2400 http://boise.craigslist.org/tls/3637234231.html. I had a Ridgid TS2400 (portable table saw on a cart) that I sold a while back for $250, so this guy is asking WAY too much money (if you could get it for around the $250 mark, I think that would be a pretty decent deal). That was a pretty solid "occasional" saw. The fence slid pretty smoothly and it had a feature you don't see too often anymore - there was a thumbwheel that allowed for some micro adjustments. I hated the distance indicator on it though, it was very difficult to read.

 

If your mechanically inclined at all look for a used Contractor's table saw, Delta and Powermatic are good ones to look for. With a good fence they can run around $500 - $600. Good fences are the Biesemeyer, the Unifence, the T-2, Vega, etc. Without a good fence the used saws can be found for around $300, but you can usually find a very reasonably priced new Delta T2 fence for under $200. This is not a bad deal for a made in the USA Delta with a good fence and the extras. I'd see if he would take $500 for it.

 

If you want to buy used, make sure to avoid the right tilt saws. Left tilt saws like Craftsman or the current crop of Rigid are good choices. Keep in mind you may have to replce the fence.

If you arer looking for new, a lot of folks are happy with Rigid. KnotScott will be along soon and can give you the best suggestions He's the tablesaw guru around here and the most knowledgeable.

 

I have the Bosch 4100 with the gravity rise stand. A little paste wax on the fence makes it slide like buttah. I get great, accurate cuts from it. If space is a limiting factor for you, like it is for me, you can't beat the Bosch. Even though I am extremely pleased with it, if I had more space, I would've opted for something bigger/permanent. That being said, I've never regretted buying it, I got it at Lowes with a 10% mover's coupon.

 

I had a Ridgid 2400 that I was happy with, a Ridgid contractor 3650 that I was very happy with, and a Ridgid 4511 granite top hybrid that I was very, very happy with. You should be able to find good used ones for: 2400, $250-300, 3650, $300-375, 4511, $400-450. Any of them will do what you want to do. Plus, of course many other brands.

 

i 'd suggest you first determine what type of saw would accommodate your intended applucations. this write up is a good starting point:

http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154

once the decision of what type of saw is most appropriate to your needs, then various markets and brands can be investigated.

 

It depends on what you want to do with it. Carpenters can use a small portable saw and be happy with it. Precision woodworkers need a more accurate and larger saw which is more expensive. About 17 years ago, I purchased the Delta Contractor's saw, with left & right tables, mobile base and a decent blade it was about $700. I quickly realized that I really wanted and by now need a bigger, more powerful saw.

So, define what you want to do, how much and how fast you need to do it in. Also, the available voltage is an issue as bigger saws want 220V. This will help narrow down the selection. If you are a serious woodworker, I would suggest a 3HP cabinet saw. If you have the money and safety is a concern go with the StopSaw, if you want to spend less money select a Grizzly.

 

I think that his original post pretty much tells what his intended applications are. I'd like a nice 110v with an accurate, smooth fence. My use would be general woodworking as a hobby, not professional and most likely no real cabinet work or large sheet goods An American made Contractor's table saw I think would be the best investment for his needs.

 

More important than brand is saw type IMO. I'd suggest a full size saw with a belt drive induction motor. You didn't mention a budget, but new full size saws tend to start around $500 (coupons and sales can shave costs a bit). Everyone's preferences are different, but once you're into the full size belt drive 110v category, the more desirable features are a good fence, solid cast iron wings, and cabinet mounted trunnions…the more you spend, the more goodies you get in one package. The alternatives of steel wings and table mounted trunnions will work, but a lame fence will hinder precision, so either buy a saw with a good fence, or plan to buy a good aftermarket fence. With the restriction of 110v, they'll all be no more than 2hp… alignment and blade choice will be the factors that ultimately determine end performance.

A good used saw is always an option if the right deal comes along….sometimes the most bang for the buck.

 

Shopsmith user here chiming in.

Personally, I've endeavored to reduce my table saw usage. For ripping I now use my band saw, for cross cuts I use my Sliding compound miter saw. For dadoes and other non through cuts, I use my router (with or without the table depends on the cut.). For larger rips (panel goods mostly) I can't do on the band saw, I find that a straight edge and circular saw make a much safer combination.

I have neither the real estate nor the budget for a stand alone table saw.

Of course I can always use galoot tools as well I do have a complement of handsaws, planes, chisels etc.

I'm just providing the minority opposition opinion re: table saws. I don't think they are as essential as is made out.

 

I am just the opposite of Terry. I am trying to eliminate my sliding compound miter saw. The only reason I need it is to cut 1×12 boards to a shorter length. Other than that, I can do just about anything else on the table saw.

My suggestions is to buy the best you can afford and get a good blade for ripping and a good blade for crosscutting. The two I am using are the Marples 50 tooth blade for crosscutting and simple ripping. I also have a Freud 30 tooth glue line rip blade for ripping.

With a table saw you can make a sled for accurate crosscutting. And there are jigs that you can make for making miter cuts or buy a miter jig like the Incra.

A good stacked dado set will aid in cutting rabbits, half laps, etc. And if you have room, you can build a router table for one of the saws extension wings.

Good luck in your search.

 

Scott,in a new saw, your not going to get much of anything for $500. Infact I would strongly suggest that anyone should stay away from anything that is that cheap, or even close to it in a new saw.

 

I will never understand why people think that they need to do all their crosscuts on a table saw. Keep your miter saw, use a good sharp blade, or get a better miter saw if it isn't working for you.

 

I have a 12 inch sliding compound miter saw, but even that can only cut about 12" at 90 degrees. So I fail to see how having a compound miter saw will do all my crosscutting needs.

 

'I will never understand why people think that they need to do crosscuts on a table saw.'

Not need, want… I happen to have a very nice SCMS, with several very nice blades. I had a miter saw set up for over 10 years, and it's been almost 9 since I put it away.

I choose to crosscut on my table saw because (no particular order):
1.) I have a killer cabinet saw and lots of sleds. I can make another in less than a half hour, if need be.
2.) I prefer the cut visibility on the table saw.
3.) I got a bunch of space, including a lot of valuable wall space, back, by not having my SCMS set up in the shop.
4.) Dust collection
5.) Flesh sensing
6.) The really nice 52" stop block on the table saw.
7.) Smaller parts are far safer in a sled
8.) No flying offcuts

I rough cut my stock with a jigsaw that lives at the lumber rack.

I love my SCMS in the field, though…

 

"I will never understand why people think that they need to do all their crosscuts on a table saw. Keep your miter saw, use a good sharp blade, or get a better miter saw if it isn't working for you."

That's beacuse you don't understand precision. A miter saw cannot compare to a tablesaw when it comes to precision cuts. A miter saw is fine for trimming a house or even cabinet work if "close" is good enough but certainly doesn't make the kind of cuts a well tuned saw with properly designed sleds will. That's the reason they're called "chop saws"

 

"I will never understand why people think that they need to do all their crosscuts on a table saw. Keep your miter saw, use a good sharp blade, or get a better miter saw if it isn't working for you."

I don't think anyone is saying a miter saw can't make good cuts…it can, but it's an inherently less robust device than a full fledged cast iron table saw with a good miter gauge. For folks who never cut long boards, there's no need to acquire another tool when the TS can do the same or better job.

Just compare the mechanisms. Every aspect of a good TS is more robust, and the arbor carriage is held in place by a gear, as opposed to a human hand at the end of a plastic handle.

 

All I can say is amazing.

 

Yeah, isn't it amazing when you see facts laid out so well?

 

I was thinking the same thing about using a table saw to crosscut. I tried crosscutting the other night on my tablesaw with my sled. While it did work well, I still prefer my miter saw, it is very accurate and I can set the piece on the saw table line it up with the blade and not have to move the piece. I might add I have a compound miter saw not a sliding compound miter saw. I do think very short pieces are probably safer on the table saw with a sled.

 

Comfort level has a lot to do with it. If the miter saw is more comfortable, then use it. But a sled will still give you more accurate cuts as well as repeatable cuts. Miter saws are good tools but have definite limitations. I never cut anything shorter than 10" with a miter saw, and can easily (and safely) cut pieces 2" with a sled.

Table saws are far more versatile than some people realize, and learning how to utilize sleds really opens up the possibilities.

 

The facts, is that like your quote that a left tilt saw is more accurate ? Whatever ! It's not hard to figure out who the rookies are.

 

This guy makes do with very little in pizzazz but is a good woodworker.

 

For the record, Steve in his video says that his table saw is a Contractor's saw. What he has is a Benchtop table saw on a stand.