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#22 ·
I was thinking the same thing about using a table saw to crosscut. I tried crosscutting the other night on my tablesaw with my sled. While it did work well, I still prefer my miter saw, it is very accurate and I can set the piece on the saw table line it up with the blade and not have to move the piece. I might add I have a compound miter saw not a sliding compound miter saw. I do think very short pieces are probably safer on the table saw with a sled.
 
#23 ·
Comfort level has a lot to do with it. If the miter saw is more comfortable, then use it. But a sled will still give you more accurate cuts as well as repeatable cuts. Miter saws are good tools but have definite limitations. I never cut anything shorter than 10" with a miter saw, and can easily (and safely) cut pieces 2" with a sled.

Table saws are far more versatile than some people realize, and learning how to utilize sleds really opens up the possibilities.
 
#27 ·
I have the Ridgid R4512 and find it suitable for my needs and skill level. It was reasonably priced, has a lifetime warranty, and performs as I expect. While I am completely happy with it, I would suggest you monitor the tool section of your local craigslist. I see many very nice saws of all styles and prices. For a tad more, I could have stepped up to a nicer cabinet saw. You could also see what others are asking for shopsmith components.
 
#28 ·
Sweet, SawSucker showed up to the party with his typical condescending attitude.

I paid under $500 for my Bosch 4100. It's worked very well for me, makes accurate cuts, and allows me to make better use of my limited space. Perhaps if I bent up some sheet metal to catch the dust under it it would be worth it, and then I could talk down to people about how I specialize in dust collection improvements for portable table saws.
 
#29 ·
Would you expect anything less from him? He was banned from here before under the name of woodchuck1957 for the same garbage. I haven't seen anything from him relating to actually using a table saw, only a pissed off attitude blaming the world for his woes..
 
#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a good Hitachi 12" CMS. I can wiggle it laterally a good 1/16" to 1/8" inches. When cutting tough wood, the induced torque can cause the mechanism to deflect. This became obvious when I put in a zero clearance insert…the slot showed exactly how much slop there is. It's just not accurate in a repeatable fashion.

It also lacks the capacity of the table saw, the safety (for small pieces), and the dust collection. And because the zero clearance insert isn't as effective as that on my table saw, I get more tear-out.

But I have a nice, INCRA-equipped 3hp Unisaw that is precisely setup…perhaps people who don't have such a TS can't understand how valuable such precision is?

I can see the desire for a nice CMS (slider or otherwise) because it seems to make sense at first (which is why I bought mine). But with my TS, I could easily do with a cheap chop saw, because that's all my Hitachi is used for.

Aside: To further put my CMS down in the pecking order, I'm doing a covered backyard patio right now, and instead of using my CMS on its nice portable stand, I bought a new Skil Wormdrive circular saw for the job. It's a monster, as I knew it would be….and much safer than trying to cut 18 ft. long 2×8s on my CMS. I might just dump the CMS entirely in favor of the circ saw for chopping boards to size…the CMS takes up way too much room in my small shop.
 
#31 ·
Best bang for the buck in used saws are the Delta contractor saws with either a Unifence or Biesemeyer (model #'s like 34-444 or 36-445). They regularly sell for $300-450 used, cheap IMO.
 
#32 ·
I'll gently disagree Rick. The older craftsman saws are excellent when coupled with a better fence, and they're left tilt. In my area the craftsman saws with cast iron extensions in decent shape go for less than $200.

And don't even try to find parts for anything Delta these days…..............
 
#33 ·
Like Jay, I have a 12" CMS, mine is a 12yr old Craftsman, and I have the very same lack of repeatability in making crosscuts. It worked great while building my various deck projects, however for cabinet-making it is a PITA and not acceptable. A crosscut sled on a TS is the only way to go and it made all the difference for MY WW-ing precision.

If you can swing it, a full sized cabinet saw is the best choice, and it will give you a lifetime of enjoyment and precision IMO.
 
#35 ·
The only SCMS I've ever seen that truly delivered precise cuts was the Festool. That tool is truly a work of art. But at $1300, I can build an awful lot of sleds and jigs that offer precision and safety for that amount!

The day I built my first sled was the day I learned just how much I could do with a table saw, and that was a 1980's Crafstman contractor saw. With all due respect (with one very notable exception), folks who think a miter saw will do a better job than a table saw haven't really learned much about their table saw.
 
#36 · (Edited by Moderator)
Every professional trim carpenter I know uses a compound miter saw, and they do almost all of their crosscuts with them. And judging from my many years of experience I'd have to agree that they know what they are doing. So, who would I rather listen too for advise ? Some stranger on a woodworking forum ? or a pro ?
 
#37 · (Edited by Moderator)
SawSucker…professional trim carpenters do not require accuracy in the amounts we need as woodworkers. How many walls have you ever seen that were precisely perpendicular to one another? How many are actually straight? They use caulk for a reason.

BTW, I just watched a trim carpenter completely trim out my friends 3800 sq.ft. house in three days. They are some of this nicest joints I've seen. He was very good at his job, and I told him so. But caulk is still required.
 
#38 · (Edited by Moderator)
"Every professional trim carpenter I know uses a compound miter saw, and they do almost all of their crosscuts with them. And judging from my many years of experience I'd have to agree that they know what they are doing. So, who would I rather listen too for advise ? Some stranger on a woodworking forum ? or a pro ?"

Chuckie-I'll type this slowly and perhaps you'll understand (but I seriously doubt it!).

Yes, a trim carpenter will certainly want to use a miter saw as that is the proper tool for the application. When I ran my remodeling business (unlike you, I was successful at it) that was the tool we used to cut trim. It even has benefit in a cabinet shop for low to mid-range quality work.

But in MY years of experience, furniture makers seldom use a miter saw for anything other than rough cuts. So, who would I rather listen to for advise? My colleagues, or some stranger on a woodworking forum that tries to sell home made dust collection doo-dads?

Peace out, Chuckie
 
#39 ·
Sawsucker, opinions are like __ (fill in the blank), everyone has one!
And, they are entitled to their opinion whether you like it or not!
 
#40 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thats funny guys. I would consider framing to be rough cuts, not trim work, atleast in the homes that I've worked in. Sam, all you do is flap your gums here, you have not shown ANYTHING that you have supposedly done in the two months that you've been here. NOTHING !
 
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