Miter Saw and...
I recently sold the Sears miter saw stand I bought last spring ( I got greedy and thought it would be great $90) but the 4 ft. of floor space just did not work out even with shop vac and stuff under it. Before this in shop #4 I had a portamate and knew about the sliding supports and the open design. But in the large 2 car shop the one I liked best was on an old grill stand with a 1×12 and 2 boxes screwed down the height of the miter saw bed. one on each side. At the end I leveled the planer and had it outfeed onto the tables of the miter saw for a 6 foot outfeed very convenient and the planer always ready to go. This was at the center and door end of the shop so very much out of the way and in good weather I could blow out more dust or more space if needed, also this modular shop had a 4 ft. partition at each center and that's where I had that miter saw. Sounds like I miss that one. Now I recently bought a used Sears miter saw, and after trying it on the workmate decided it needed extensions and had the same loss of space problem. I have had this idea of why not on the router table…..both get limited back and forth use.. so I have moved the fence back on the miter saw, placed a 1×12 on the laminate table. miter saw over the table area. one of the wood extension boxes to the riight..about an 18 inch support. and to the left the shorter a 14 inch box. that leaves about a foot for a block to make any needed support if I have to hold up any longer piece on the left. I saw these box extensions in Shop Notes then Pinterest. and modified my own. The base is 1×12 and the top I made from ship lap pine 5/8 then cut the 2x blocks to make the height. The advantage of this is predrilling some holes and screwing the boxes down anywhere or stop blocks to the top or clamp a block to the top. Bevel the ends of the boxes to not catch any board sliding across helps. I even left a 2 inch gap in the top to screw down the middle or make a removeable stop. So when I need the router table I hope to just unclamp the miter saw, one c clamp, store it, then lift the 1×12 miter saw board and box store it. and roll the miter saw stand as needed and proceed. I did not have to remove the router or fence or switch. Just unplug its power to the miter saw. On day I must learn photobucket to load the new pictures..I would rather cut miter joints.
I recently sold the Sears miter saw stand I bought last spring ( I got greedy and thought it would be great $90) but the 4 ft. of floor space just did not work out even with shop vac and stuff under it. Before this in shop #4 I had a portamate and knew about the sliding supports and the open design. But in the large 2 car shop the one I liked best was on an old grill stand with a 1×12 and 2 boxes screwed down the height of the miter saw bed. one on each side. At the end I leveled the planer and had it outfeed onto the tables of the miter saw for a 6 foot outfeed very convenient and the planer always ready to go. This was at the center and door end of the shop so very much out of the way and in good weather I could blow out more dust or more space if needed, also this modular shop had a 4 ft. partition at each center and that's where I had that miter saw. Sounds like I miss that one. Now I recently bought a used Sears miter saw, and after trying it on the workmate decided it needed extensions and had the same loss of space problem. I have had this idea of why not on the router table…..both get limited back and forth use.. so I have moved the fence back on the miter saw, placed a 1×12 on the laminate table. miter saw over the table area. one of the wood extension boxes to the riight..about an 18 inch support. and to the left the shorter a 14 inch box. that leaves about a foot for a block to make any needed support if I have to hold up any longer piece on the left. I saw these box extensions in Shop Notes then Pinterest. and modified my own. The base is 1×12 and the top I made from ship lap pine 5/8 then cut the 2x blocks to make the height. The advantage of this is predrilling some holes and screwing the boxes down anywhere or stop blocks to the top or clamp a block to the top. Bevel the ends of the boxes to not catch any board sliding across helps. I even left a 2 inch gap in the top to screw down the middle or make a removeable stop. So when I need the router table I hope to just unclamp the miter saw, one c clamp, store it, then lift the 1×12 miter saw board and box store it. and roll the miter saw stand as needed and proceed. I did not have to remove the router or fence or switch. Just unplug its power to the miter saw. On day I must learn photobucket to load the new pictures..I would rather cut miter joints.