[Smitty_Cabinetshop]

Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..

I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…

!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!

My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.

Carli - that's it, in the video!

 

[Carli]

Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..

I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…

!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!

My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.

Carli - that s it, in the video!

- Smitty_Cabinetshop

Very nice!

Sent a copy of video to my mom.

Glad you will put it to good use!!

 

[Smitty_Cabinetshop]

Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..

I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…

!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!

My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.

I hope she likes it. Did very little to the tool once I took a closer look; pretty much just a razor blade, a red scratch pad and WD40 was it.

 

[Carli]

Stanley #72 Chamfer Plane... Completely Restored

The Stanley #72 Chamfer plane was on my list of Stanley specialty planes that I wanted to own. I like this plane from both a collector and a user view point. What I mean by that is its fun to use and its also fun to look at on the shelf.

This is the kind of plane in which I normally wouldn't restore to a like new condition. Had this one been in good condition and had nice patina I would have just sharpened the iron and left the rest alone. However this #72 did not have nice patina and it was in very poor condition. There was hardly any japanning left, it was rusted and the tote and knob had weathered to a grey like color and you couldn't even tell they were rosewood. I paid a premium price for this plane so I figured I would bring it back to looking like a premium plane.

Here are the before pictures of the plane..

I first took apart and soaked all the metal parts in EvapoRust for a few hours. After that I sanded down the area to be painted, hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned surface to be painted. After the paint dried I polished up the unpainted metal using wet/dry sandpaper. I stopped at 800 grit. I had to do some pretty heavy sanding to the tote and knob in order to get rid of the layer of weathered wood. I finished the wood with Bullseye Shellac Clear.

Here is the plane after…

!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/lz6u6ee.jpg

!

My first thoughts on using this plane-

I have only had the chance so far to test the plane out on a few boards. In order to give it a real review I will have to have more time with it. On my first test piece things did not go well. The front end of the plane is adjustable, you loosen the star shaped knob on the back and you can lift or lower the front. The position of the front end determines the depth of the chamfer. On my first trial run with the plane I had the depth set to deep and I didn't really get a nice looking chamfer. I basically just hogged off the edge of the board. I re adjusted the front end and tried again on a new piece. Adjusting the front made a huge difference, I got a much nicer chamfer on my 2nd attempt. For the third board I adjusted the front yet again and planed an even smaller chamfer. I tried taking photos of these boards but I was using light color wood and due to the lights in my shop and camera quality I couldn't quite capture the chamfer the way I wanted. I will have to use a darker wood and try and get pictures to post in a later update.

After figuring out the depth adjustment I ran into another problem. I was having a hard time both starting and ending the chamfer. Starting the chamfer from the end of the board was tough so I found it best to start the cut an inch or so from the edge, once chamfer is established I found it easiest to just turn plane around and plane off that first inch from the other direction. The other issue was finishing the cut at the other end of the board. Of coarse if your doing a stopped chamfer this would not be a problem but if your going all the way to the end I found you have to make sure to keep good pressure on the back of the plane. On the first and 2nd test pieces I was not keeping enough down pressure on the back so when I reached the end the cutter would dig down making a deeper cut at the end. Both of these are just minor user issues that will just take me some time to master.

Is this a handy user plane to have?

I think this plane is great for times where you need to cut long straight perfect chamfers. For smaller projects I will probably stick with my block plane but if I want to bevel the edge of a table or cut chamfers on casework I will reach for the #72. I will have to spend some time with it in order to give it a real review but thats just my early thoughts.

My Mom is very pleased that someone gets to enjoy that little plane. She loved seeing the video.

Thanks for sharing Smitty

 

[Dcase]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

 

[Mosquito]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

That's still probably one of my favorite restores I've seen so far. I really like that plane, and the grain is so amazing on it. Great work Dan.

 

[donwilwol]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

nice Dan. You've got that tuned well.

 

[Kookaburra]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Beautiful piece of ribbon you made!

 

[AnthonyReed]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

That is a beautiful job Dan. Congrats again on the #34!

 

[RGtools]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

How do you match the finish on a tote repair? This has always mystified me.

 

[SASmith]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Great work on the restoration. I like the two-tone tote.
The last pic really shows that you know how to tune.

 

[planepassion]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Talk about a money shot Dan. Your shavings are sweet. I like the way that you ran into a problem (not lining up) and came up with a solution. I appreciate you sharing it here because as you know, there always seems to be something squirrelly about each restoration. You also probably saved a vintage tool from the firewood pile to take its place once again in a working shop.

 

[JayT]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Dan, I will say it again, Great Job! That 34 came out both functional and beautiful. (The shavings aren't bad either )

 

[ShaneA]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Really looks nice Dan. Well done

 

[Kentuk55]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Rockin Restore as usual.

 

[Bertha]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Still my favorite restore to date. Simply awesome.

 

[Lifesaver2000]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Nice to see how to fix that tote. I have one on a #605 that is broken in the same way that I need to fix.

 

[mochoa]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

Another amazing restore Dan!

 

[Oakum]

Stanley #34 completely restored. The longest jointer that Stanley made.

Its been a while since my last blog on plane restoration. Over the past year I have been trying to build up a collection of the Stanley wood bottom transitional planes. With each one that I have restored I get a little better at tuning them. Once you figure out how to get them all tuned and set right they are really fine working planes.

The #34 Jointer was one of the trans planes that was at the top of my want list. At 30" long it is the longest plane that Stanley ever produced. This plane is not really an easy one to find and I had been on the watch for one for a while. Thanks to a fellow LJ member I was finally able to get my hands on one.

Here is a before picture

The plane was in decent shape but it did have one big issue and that was the wooden body was cupped. If you look close at the photo you can see the cup. The only other issue was the top of the tote was missing but other then that everything was in good shape.

I started by taking it apart and I then ran the body through my power jointer to flatten the bottom. I set the jointer to take a very light cut and I just made a bunch of passes until I had taken the cup out. Once I had the bottom flat I then realized there was a big hump on the top. I figured it be best I run it through the planer, again taking really light cuts until I got the high spot out. I also squared up the edges/sides of the plane.

Here is the sole after it was jointed. Check out the grain.

Once I had the body square and flat I smoothed it out with a mix of hand planes and some sand paper. I finished the body with BLO and then put a top coat of clear Shellac on.

Once it was dry I put everything back together and discovered I had a new problem. Somehow (probably due to reducing the thickness of the body) the metal top did not line up right. With the frog adjusted as far forward as it would go it was not far enough to line up even with the iron bedding in the wood body. I decided the only solution to this issue was to plug all the existing mounting holes in the wood, move the metal frame up a little to where I could get the frog to line up and then re drill new mounting holes.

I just used a piece of scrap maple to cut the plugs. The metal top only had to be moved up a little so none of the plugs are visible when the plane is assembled.

I also re-painted the metal parts.

With the body done the next step was to repair the tote. To fix the tote I used a small block plane to flatten the break in the tote and then I glued on a piece of maple. I would have tried to match the beech better but I had a piece of maple that was the perfect size and thickness so thats what I used.

I glued the piece of maple on the tote and used nothing more then a couple pieces of masking tape to clamp it. The tape did a fine job as the glue joint is solid and held up through the shaping process.

Here are some pictures of the plane completed and in action (Note: the tote was not finished yet at the time of these pictures so I used a tote off one of my other planes)

I know I'm really late in contributing to this thread, but I really like the old transitional planes… There's nothing quite like riding a piece of hardwood, especially over a hardwood workpiece.

It's also neat how the plane, with a little bit of innovation and creating a new sole or whole wooden body, can become another plane entirely, or even a brand new style of plane of your own design.

During my years of collecting and restoration though, I've noticed the inclination for transitional planes to sometimes bow from end to end. There was a trend of this occurring more often than not in the longer planes such as jointers. It seemed to me that the axis of the bow occurs many times under the hollowed-out section where the frog, or the wedge and blade was housed, being the least dense and supported section of the wood body.

Using the method I developed to bend various wood pieces for chair building, I took one of these bowed or warped plane bodies minus the metal hardware and soaked it for 3 or 4 days in a tub of water. Then I microwaved it (my micro can do 22 inches max) for 4 minutes on high, or until hot to the touch… and clamped it down to a flat surface with a small 1/8 inch shim just under the mouth opening or axis of the bow. The shim is a guesstimate of how much spring-back is likely to occur after the plane cools and is released from the clamps.

Sometimes this method requires more than one attempt to get the plane body to cool and dry flat; but the benefits are a return to the correct body and sole dimensions and holes lining up for reassembly.

 

[Dcase]

A collection of before/after photos of planes I have restored

Rather then doing a separate blog on all of these I figured it would be easier to just post a blog of before and after shots of some of my plane restorations… Some of these have been completely restored and some just cleaned up and tuned.

Stanley #40 1/2 Scrub Plane

Stanley #10 Bench Rabbet Plane

Stanley #113 Compass Plane

Stanley #78 Rabbet Plane

Wooden Skew Rabbet plane (Gift from fellow LJ Member)

Stanley #45 Combination Plane

Sargent #2204 Small Steel Block Plane

Vaughn & Bushnell #703? (iron and lever cap are not original to plane) No before picture.

Thats all for now… I will finish with a family photo of my growing collection.