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Handplanes of your dreams

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#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
There's enough handplane lovers around here that this could be an informative question. What are your dream handplanes (handtools in general are acceptable)? I'm a sucker for the infills, so Norris and Preston would be at the top of my list. Of all of them….hmmm….probably a Norris panel plane (below) closely followed by a big Mathieson.

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Please share yours!
 

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#9,924 ·
well don, i am not really a plane guy…......<g>

thanks racer, still learning the site…......

smitty, i got some of grandpa's old planes somewhere, might dig them out today and and take some pics. if it aint got a button or a switch, i rarely use it…...

bertha…......
 
#9,925 ·
Got a bandsaw blade from Highland yesterday. For the record, they ship FAST. Nicely packed. Clear instructions. Quite impressed. This is a 1/2" WoodSlicer. I will report back.
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#9,926 ·
Don, I thought about using the frog adjustment screws, but that means drilling TWO holes in a plane iron, which seems a heck of a lot harder than drilling one hole in a cast iron bed-but I won't give up on that idea yet.

Al, that's a sweet blade, you'll enjoy it!

Welcome millzit!

Glen, that 605 is looking great!
 
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#9,927 ·
Don, the tote's beyond hope for me. As I meantioned it'd been used a long time broken, wearing the mating surfaces smooth, I have to take over a quarter inch out to get a mating surface.
And…It was soaked in whatever's all over the plane, stinks, I'm now thinking something like fuel oil perhaps..
Heres another parts shot.
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The brass adjustment wheel was almost full of oily caked sawdust.
 

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#9,928 ·
Don, I agree about Ebay being depressing as of late. I think the Chamfer plane is the only thing I have got off ebay in the last couple months.

Mauricio, you asked me the other day about the tool trays in my work bench. The tool trays just sit in there on a couple of strips and they can be slid out of the way or taken out. The two long hardwood runners were just screwed on before I attached the top. I took a couple of pics last night to show you.
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#9,929 ·
Wow…I've been following this thread since I signed up, but I fear my question has been answered and I missed it…I braved it yesterday on the hand saw thread and asked a dumb question and got polite answers to my question, so I'll try another dumb one here!

What is the advantage of a scraper plane over just a card scraper? I'm slowly building my hand tool collec…wait, thats a bad word isn't it…arsenal (is that any better?), and I'm wondering where to go next. I have a No4 smoother that leaves a great finish, but all this talk of scraper planes has me curious. I was just about to buy a cheap card scraper (from what I can tell they are all inexpensive), but should I get a scraper plane instead? Or should I have both? Or do I need a scraper plane at all???
 
#9,931 ·
Welcome to the thread, Jason. That's a stupid question and we won't answer it! ;-) Actually that's a good question and one I'm trying to figure out myself. I've got most of the bench planes I've been trying to amass and have figured out, like you, how to get a nice finish on them. So I'm just now venturing into the world of scrapers. They are definitely useful for highly figured grain, but some people like to finish with them after using their smooth plane. Personally my finish from a smooth plane is much nicer than anything I can produce from a scraper so far.

One distinct advantage that I can think of regarding scraper planes versus card scrapers, is that they're easier to hold and once you find your sweet spot, you can lock that angle in.
 
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#9,933 ·
Brandon - that makes sense in my head! I have yet to use a scraper (card or plane), so I'm not sure what kind of finish I could get - I will say that my #4 (with crappy plastic handles…don't judge me!) usually gives me a glassy smooth finish, but sometimes I do something wrong and get some gnarly tear out towards the end of my board, so I'm gun shy about using it on a piece I've got flat and true…thats where my scraper fantasy comes in.
 
#9,936 ·
I think you should definitely have a card scraper first. The advantage to the scraper plane is that you can control the depth of cut to get a very flat surface. And you don't burn your fingers from the friction of the card scraper. But don't take my word for it there are people here who are much more knowledgeable about both on this thread.

Dan that is a great idea, I think I'm going to use that on my workbench. I also like that you can always just drop a board in there for a wider work surface.
 
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#9,938 ·
Thanks for that link Brandon, but mine would be at the back of the bench. I'm working on a Roy Underhill roubo with the slanted back legs. The only problem is that the back legs will kind of obstruct some of the side to side movement of the trays but I don't think that will be too much of an issue, a couple of trays and a couple of boards down there for shallow trays. I just need to put the cleats lower rather than higher if that makes sense. I have to sketch it up.
 
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#9,940 ·
Mauricio, I do have a thick board with a rabbet cut on each side that fits into the center of the bench to fill the open space. Just like the boxes the board just sits there and can be moved or taken out. Here is a picture of my bench with that board in place.
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Brandon, I have the issue of FWW where they show planes to make that tool tote that locks onto the bench. I also like that idea a lot.

The majority of my work is done on the first split of my bench which is the part with the vise and dog holes. That back split pretty much acts as a place to set my tools and pieces of wood while I am working. Its extra bench space and it is nice to have it there.
 

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