The owner said it was about $400. Some googling shows it at $300 online.

 

113 is here for $215

 

Have any of you seen this huge cooper's plane?

It's cool, but I can't spend $100 bucks on something I can't think of any use for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huge-Antique-Coopers-Barrel-Makers-Plane-Wien-Neubauer-/251670913819?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a98c1631b

 

Paul, I removed the frog and here is what I see.

Looks like a type 19, 1948-1961 according to the chart on hyperkitten.

Still it is a very nice no. 3. Japanning is 100%. Nice rosewood tote and knob. Just a little dust and the iron needs a good sharpening.

Thanks for the info.

 

Sometimes there is a mix of parts, so that the type study does not match the thing in hand. I don't know if that was factory or happened later. It may simply be that they had parts on hand so they used them. On a type 19, the letters on the lateral adjuster should be vertical, like .

S
T
A
N
L
E
Y

But, it's for sure a type 19 casting.

-Paul

 

Thanks Paul. When (if) I sell it, I will list it as a type 19.

 

I picked up a Stanley #8c type 9 at a flea market a few weeks back and have come across a bit of a conundrum. The original iron and breaker had been replaced with a narrower model. (Fits perfectly in my 5 1/2)
Typically swapping in a narrower iron is no big deal, but a previous owner decided to narrow the mouth by brazing it.
How should I go about removing this brazing without incurring further damage?
My first thought is to cut into the braising a bit with a saw, heat it up and pry the brass out. Any advise would be appreciated.
I'm also considering just throwing the whole mess on ebay and someone can use it as parts. It needs a tote and the frog is broken.

 

You could file that out with a bastard file, shouldn't take too long.

 

MNclone-
Bobasaurus's solution is the one I would try first. I'd also clean up that whole area of the plane to see if there was more damage to the base casting. Was the brazing only done to narrow the mouth width or to correct or hide other damage? Clean, inspect, then file if no other damage. How bad is the frog broken?
chuck

 

MNclone-
Bobasaurus s solution is the one I would try first. I d also clean up that whole area of the plane to see if there was more damage to the base casting. Was the brazing only done to narrow the mouth width or to correct or hide other damage? Clean, inspect, then file if no other damage. How bad is the frog broken?
chuck

- upchuck

I cleaned it up enough to see that there isn't any other damage.
The top corner of the frog is gone starting at the hole for the lat adjuster so of course the adjuster is gone too.
It would probably work fine sans adjuster if push came to shove.
The type 9 introduced the newer style frog, but the adjustment screw was added in type 10. So if I'm not mistaken, this style frog was only made from 1902 to 1907 so it might be tough to find that exact replacement.

 

Dear Diary,

Did something last evening I never thought I'd do: Found a use for a Stanley #75… Pictures tonight.

 

Dear Diary,

Did something last evening I never thought I d do: Found a use for a Stanley #75… Pictures tonight.

- Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm trying to decide if the use was a paperweight, sinker on a fishing line or target practice. I'm not aware of any other uses for a #75.

Guess I will find out later today.

 

...use for a 75? hmmmm…must think mdf…

 

Spider stompin 75.

 

Paint scraper

 

Did find another use for a Stanley #70

Menards prints their bar codes right on the board. The #70 takes it right off….

Wonder IF I can walk around in that store with it in my pocket…...

 

^ At Menards Checkout: "Is that a Stanley #70 in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me?"

 

My primary use for the #75 has been for cleaning up glue squeeze out on panel glue ups… will be interested to see what yours is Smitty

 

How to make one of these, with a plane…

The top half of that screen door needed a rebate to house either the screen's frame, or the window frame.

Was trying to figure out how to cut a 1/2" wide, by 3/16" deep rebate. Happened to remmeber a small plane I made awhile back

I might someday make a depth stop for it…..

Top rail now has the rebate needed..

BTW: took longer to clamp the board up, than to cut the rebate. Might have had it set a might deep?

Saves $$$ from having to BUY a router bit?

 

A challenge in the dining room mod presented itself as I pondered the transition from 'old' baseboard to 'new' baseboard.

Thought about it over the past couple weeks, thinking something would come to me. Well, a piece of architectural salvage my son brought me sparked the idea.

I opted to cut off the bottom finial and 'notch' the base to accept each side's baseboard.

The notching is when the #75 came in.

And it did well. Now, back into the cabinet.