MrsN,

I'd say use a torch to burn/darken the recessed letters. Then use a ROS to clean up the main surface before coating with final finish.

BTW, have him try it on a test piece first…

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb

 

Hi, MsN!
The burning sounds like it will be nice. However, make sure he uses a UV finish on it when it is done. I made a sign for a friend of mine for over his workshop. The backboard was Walnut and the lettering was Maple. After a couple of years it was so bleached by the sun that the wood was almost the same color. I renovated it about a year ago by recutting the lettering and resanding the Walnut backboard and using a polyurethane with UV protectors in it. I don't know much about finishes, but hopefully this will work better. Just a suggestion.
Sheila

 

I'm with Sheila, fading is a major problem

You could sandblast to get the grain effect then use "1SHOT" sign painters
lettering enamal. It is a nice dense colourfast paint

Jamie

 

Route the letters.
Paint the letters.
Allow the paint to dry completely, at least over night.
Sand with an orbital sander, taking all the paint off the flat wood around the letters, leaving the paint in the routed letters untouched. This idea came from a suggestion book that came along with a Milescraft sign making kit. It isn't my idea, but it does work great.

 

We did that in our wood finishing class

Use a blow torch and wire brush and scrub on redwood.
Blow torch again and scrub.
Then top coat it with any marine finish.

 

What I have done in the past was to use India ink to color the letters and then use a good UV protection Polyurethane to seal with.

 

I guess it depends on the look you're going for? In my opinion, the torch and resand method would look the most rustic, while the painted enamel and sanding would possibly be a slightly cleaner, more modern look, if that can possibly exist.

I would personally use the torch, but I don't know what the ultimate goal is? Either way, I also vote for the UV protected finish coat.

 

How big is big?

I'm seeing even the UV urethane cracking and blistering and requiring major rework. I'd like you to consider an exterior stain instead. you might have to renew it every couple years, but you won't have to take down the sign and scrape and sand.

Ever seen any professionally routed exterior signs with gloss finish? Not in my neighborhood, anyhow.

Kindly,

Lee

 

I think I would vote with Lee. Stain that is made for exterior siding and fences stands up better. Yes it has to be renewed every few years but I think everything else will have to be renewed sooner. The sun is tough on finishes. Even the torched letters will fade out.

 

Olympic deck stain has held up on my deck better than anything I tried previously. I think the stain name is a misnomer as it seems more like a paint to me. It has an 8 year warranty on vertical surfaces and a 5 year on horizontal surfaces. Im pretty sure it comes from Lowes but could be Home depot.

 

I would use a latex solid body stain….its similar to paint but is self priming on bare wood (most brands require 2 coats) One shot sign painters enamel is good too but as with enamels they get brittle over time and tend to crack. Exterior clears dont usually have any pigment in them therefore you dont get much UV protection and if you dont keep up with the maintenence they can be a real headache. Teak oil might be another option it penetrates into the wood therefore you wont get peeling, it will more or less just weather away and is easy to maintain and touch up.
Hope this helps