Jig-A-Loo Graphite Extreme Lubricant
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/jig-a-loo-graphite-extreme-lubricant/902323
For my miter saw sliders I use silicone spray but for planer,table saw ,jointer the graphite spray is best in my opinion.

 

I use a graphite drying paste on the moving parts that WON'T come in contact with wood.

 

Paste wax.
Works great and doesn't attract dust.

 

I use paste wax on sliding surfaces that will come in contact with wood. for screw threads, shafts, trunnions, etc. I used an emulsified wax lube made for bicycle chains designed specifically to not attract dirt and dust.

 

I use paste wax on sliding surfaces that will come in contact with wood. for screw threads, shafts, trunnions, etc. I used an emulsified wax lube made for bicycle chains designed specifically to not attract dirt and dust.

Mr. Yeti, do you have a product name or link?

I use past wax too on anything and everything I can get to without pulling a machine apart.

 

I thought about using a graphite lube. But my thinking is that if a part initially had some kind of thick, heavy grease on it I should probably stick with a heavy grease. But I don't know what kind of grease to use. Is there a way to determine visually what kind of grease was put on at the factory?

 

Good article in Woodcraft magazine on that point. WD40 is a penetrant, nothing more. It will be gone by the time you get the top back on the can. Use some dry sprays on anything that could attract sawdust.

 

http://www.levineautoparts.com/blasterdrylube.html

larry

 

I throw wax onto every metal surface that doesn't have grease or oil on it.

 

Most manufactures recommend white lithium grease.

 

Is there a specific type of lithium grease I should use? The grease on the rack and pinion of the bandsaw seems to be an orangey/coppery color.

 

WD-40 is a water dispersing agent (hence the "WD") developed for the aerospace industry, and is thus not a true lubricant. When used on mechanical parts it initially has a lubricating quality like silicone spray, but with age becomes gummy. This leads to the slippery slope of applying more to slick things up again, and eventually creating an even greater layer of sticky goo. On external surfaces that can easily be cleaned it really can't do much harm, but it's the last thing you should use on any confined mechanical parts like locks or firearms.

 

gfadvm has it. Same as I use. Usually it's a Creamy Color and comes in a Squeeze Tube.

A Mechanic told me a few days ago that "Silicone Grease" was better. Haven't had a chance to look for it yet.

Paste Wax on Moving Gears???

 

one of the locksmiths I used years ago in another province always charged double if you you had sprayed the lock with WD40. WD stands for water displacement. Claimed it gummed up the works real good.

Just an observation.

I know silicone spray is anatheme in any shop where spray finishing is done, so I avoid it like the plague, but of yer not spary finishing, it might be a real good lubricant. often times in homes on maintenace jobs, I'll spray it outside on a rag, take it in and wipe the surfaces… Might work for shop stuff too….if you don't spray finish.

Eric

 

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/ideal-dry-lubricant-table-saw-use

 

Quote:

"Paste Wax on Moving Gears???"

That's kind of what I thought. I think wax is good on surfaces that don't move a lot.

I'm not a fan of WD-40 for long term use. It does get gummy and it seems to attract dirt and dust like crazy. It works ok for zapping squeaky hinges and the like. 3 in 1 oil acts similarly.

I typically use silicone lubricants on plastic and rubber. Typically on my car.

I think things like gears and the like need a heavy grease. I am not a mechanic so I am more than happy to be corrected.

 

"Paste Wax on Moving Gears???"

Yes, absolutely. Paste wax is a great low speed lubricant.
I learned it a long time ago from a table saw book (might have been kelly mehler's). It works great. The wax stays put, keeps things moving smoothly and as long as you don't go overboard on application, it doesn't attract dust.

Another upside is you don't need to have another chemical in the shop.

 

Do you mean the usual application of paste wax (apply, buff the wax off) or are you talking about caking on the wax like a very thick grease?

I could see how scenario #2 might work.

 

I just blow the gear out with compressed air, the reason being if it causes sawdust to build up on the calibrated stops, unless you check every time the saw blade may not be at the perceived angle.

I could suggest OGL (Open Gear Lube) we used to use it on the dragline house gears and swing and drag trunnions!! the most evil material I have ever seen, its sticks like you know what, and is almost impossible to remove. Seriously though don't use it !!

 

Not very thick; just enough to coat the gears. I use a tooth brush from the dollar store (they come in a can of 8) to apply it and raise and lower the saw blade a few times to evenly distribute it. Same for the bevel gear and turnnion ways.