I'm not a fan of grooves in a table top. Too easy to accumulate food debris and harder to keep clean. Why make a table from walnut and then make it like you used construction lumber?

 

For starters, there are some good resources out there that explain how to match the sapwood to the rest.

I do see your point about having more room for error, etc. The only thing I'd recommend is to do 25 or 30 degree chamfers so they aren't too deep and narrow.

 

For starters, there are some good resources out there that explain how to match the sapwood to the rest.

I do see your point about having more room for error, etc. The only thing I d recommend is to do 25 or 30 degree chamfers so they aren t too deep and narrow.

- Rich

I found this, is this what you mean? https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/tips-for-finishing-walnut/

 

I'm with bondo on this one, To me the chamfered idea is a "rustic" look for picnic tables and other things made out of construction lumber, while walnut speaks to a higher level of design and craftsmanship. Lay the planks out different ways and see if you can match sapwood to sapwood on the glue lines. If you get a good flow of the grain, the lighter streaks can be a nice visual effect. If not, there's always dyes.

 

I found this, is this what you mean?

- SMP

Yes, that's exactly what I was referring to. I use an airbrush, and if you have one try it on some test boards, but using a brush will work too. Be sure to do test boards to practice with the brush too. His tip about using a diluted dye and sneaking up on the color is a good one.

 

Your table, your project, but I would hate to have groves in a table to clean or mean that I could never sit at the table and write a letter or report etc. For the work you will put into it, getting a few more boards so you can rip off the sapwood that offends you would be worth the time and cost.

 

I'm with Bondo and Blue Ridge on this one. The dining area in my house as where my kids do most of their homework and having those chamfers in the table would be a nightmare. Rip off any sapwood at the glue lines you don't like and take your time matching the grain to get a nice flow and you wont regret it. Walnut heart wood is beautiful but as Jay said the contrasting colors of the sapwood can look really sharp as well.

Good luck and build safe.

 

I m not a fan of grooves in a table top. Too easy to accumulate food debris and harder to keep clean. Why make a table from walnut and then make it like you used construction lumber?

- bondogaposis

ditto i dont like grooves on table tops and you'll find that your wife wont either when cleaning the top,and i dont like that look.i vote for a smooth top.

 

Your table, your project, but I would hate to have groves in a table to clean or mean that I could never sit at the table and write a letter or report etc. For the work you will put into it, getting a few more boards so you can rip off the sapwood that offends you would be worth the time and cost.

- BlueRidgeDog

Everyone in the family knows they aren't allowed to write directly on the table anymore since what happened to our actual dining room table. They have to use a clipboard or hard placemat we normally use for dinner. The one i built for the travel trailer hasnt been to hard to wipe off with a terry cloth towel, but then again it isn't used everyday, just camping. My biggest concern is actually not being able to rolll out pizza etc like we do with the current granite. That and i would hate for the width of the narrowest heartwood to dictate plank size I attached some pics of the one i built for the trailer.

 

nice, looks beautiful but for everyday use where food or liquids spill i wouldn't want any grooves,and i know my wife wouldn't.

 

If I were to do the chamfered edges i would forego the breadboard ends, and I would consider filling the chamfers with epoxy. So you still have the look and it's flat.

 

nice, looks beautiful but for everyday use where food or liquids spill i wouldn t want any grooves,and i know my wife wouldn t.

- pottz

Thanks! Yeah, i am feeling the same. I think I am going to try the dye on the sap on some scrap pieces to try out until i get the hang of it. Ok so lets say I get te dye down and i glue it up flat, 2 more questions:

1: how to plane flat after glue up? I have a Stanley #4, and 5, and a transitional version of the 7. I also have a card scraper but no scraper plane. I am worried about tearout with grain changes if i am positioning blanks off of looks. Worth it to get a scraper plane for this?

2. Finish for a dining table/island without the plasticky look? For the trailer i used Arm-r-seal and its fine for the trailer but for this want something a little more traditional look that still holds up ok. I am leaning towards the Osmo Polyx, but the hardware store where i get wood only has one called Livos that looks similar. But I havent used either? Any other options that look more like traditional oil finish that can take some spills etc?

Thanks again all!

 

personally i love the look of sapwood for contrast sometimes.

 

personally i love the look of sapwood for contrast sometimes.

- pottz

Maybe i didn't explain myself clearly in the original post. I like the contrast of sapwood as well. However, i do not like it when there is a stark straight line where panels glue up sap to heart. When you see a swirl of sapwood and it just breaks and messes up your eye and just looks wrong. The chamfers do a good job of letting your brain know they are planks and aren't supposed to be congruent.

For example i don't like this look:
https://goo.gl/images/1GZp41
Or https://goo.gl/images/4vCPi2

But i do like this where its not such stark straight lines
https://goo.gl/images/q5S83x

 

1: how to plane flat after glue up? I have a Stanley #4, and 5, and a transitional version of the 7. I also have a card scraper but no scraper plane. I am worried about tearout with grain changes if i am positioning blanks off of looks. Worth it to get a scraper plane for this?

2. Finish for a dining table/island without the plasticky look? For the trailer i used Arm-r-seal and its fine for the trailer but for this want something a little more traditional look that still holds up ok. I am leaning towards the Osmo Polyx, but the hardware store where i get wood only has one called Livos that looks similar. But I havent used either? Any other options that look more like traditional oil finish that can take some spills etc?

- SMP

For flattening a large piece I like to use my Makita 1/2 sheet sander. The 4-1/2×9 inch pad covers a nice large area. If you are careful during your glue up, you won't have much to level out anyway.

For finishing, it's hard to beat Arm-R-Seal. However for an area that large I'd go with spraying a pre-cat lacquer. Sherwin Williams can give you any sheen you want and it lays down flawlessly. Durable too.

 

For flattening a large piece I like to use my Makita 1/2 sheet sander. The 4-1/2×9 inch pad covers a nice large area. If you are careful during your glue up, you won t have much to level out anyway.

For finishing, it s hard to beat Arm-R-Seal. However for an area that large I d go with spraying a pre-cat lacquer. Sherwin Williams can give you any sheen you want and it lays down flawlessly. Durable too.

- Rich

For handheld sanders I only have a Bosch ROS or a belt sander. I suppose teh ROS would work, albeit slowly. I haven't sprayed laquer. Maybe its a good time for me to grab an HVLP, I have a nice compressor. Does that laquer have the plasticky look of poly?

 

Does that laquer have the plasticky look of poly?

- SMP

Not to me. I'm not trying to sway you though. I don't have any experience with the Osmo, but it sounds like it'd be really beautiful and I've heard good things about hard wax finishes from others. It's pricey for sure.