You have me very confussed. Stand at the table like you would to cut a board, and take a pic of the blade. The pics you took look like the blade is on backwords to me…. Either I am old fashion, or just plain old. I've never seen an arbor lock on a table saw… I've never seen that you had to use 2 wrenches to tighten a blade….......... You only need to "snug" it tight, that's it. I use a piece of scrap to hold the blade and put a wrench on it to "snug" it…that's it Take it off the reverse way. I don't damage my blade or anything else. Jus sayin.. Good luck with it for sure. If ya have too, clamp the blade with a pair o vise grips as long as you can get past the teeth. Sandwich the blade in 2 blocks of wood with sandpaper on them to help hold the blade, and see if you can get it to budge…. Maybe you're just tryin to turn it the wrong direction.

 

Roger, my new General has an arbor lock. My old Ridgid 3650 needs two wrenches. You are correct when you say snug is tight enough.

 

Thnx Howie. I know, I'm out in left without a glove sometime… hehe but, snug is where it's at.. I hope the other owner didn't put any lock tite on there..

 

I recommend Kroil, it is sold every where that sells cleaning supplies for firearms. It ie better than the old Liquid Wrench before OSHA labeled as carcinogen! Beats WD-40 and such.

 

An impact wrench will loosen the nut without having to immobilize the blade that much.

One thing that almost always works on tight nuts is heat. A short while with a plumbing hand torch would do it. Watch out for any sawdust though. Don't want to burn your shop down. Watch out that you don't heat your bearings though. The shaft is big so it can absorb a fair amount of heat.

 

If I'm not mistaken, the nut is coupled with a 2 1/2" stabilizer washer, hence the problem, the paint on the saw blade is what has "glued" all this together, if your going to chunk the blade, just heat the blade around the washer and it might give it up.

 

I've done (and do) a ton of automotive stuff. It's safe to assume every single bolt on a car (except the oil drain plug, it's soaked in oil) is NOT coming off. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. Technically it may be, but it's terrible for that purpose. I use it to push water out of electrical connections or where water shouldn't be.

PB Blaster is where it's at. That is the only penetrating oil I will ever use.

Roger, I have never used a table saw that wasn't made this century. I had no idea there was no flat spots on the other side of the arbor. That just doesn't make sense!

I would PB blaster it, let it sit. lock the blade in place however you can (maybe clamp a board to the table and set the teeth in it), and tighten the bolt a bit. This should free it. Once you get movement, loosen it up.

I'm not sure what kind of impact gun you have, but I'd be a little hesitant to use it. I have an IR titanium with around 1200lbs of torque. I've done some serious damage with it on stuck nuts. Either the nut explodes (that's ok), the stud pulls out (not good) and I've actually twisted/broken studs. There is torque control for forward, not reverse. On my saw, I would actually have to use the gun in forward (righty loosen) but I am not sure about yours being right tilt.

Edit - If the nut is on there THAT tight, locking down the blade may not help. You'll likely be able to spin the blade on the arbor.

One other suggestion is to get another arbor nut or even two. Lock them together at the end of the arbor. Put a huge pair of vice grips on the nuts and put something in place to prevent the vice grips from spinning. Contact with the table may be enough. Grab an opened end wrench and put it on the stuck arbor nut after spraying it down and go to town. If it still won't budge, throw a long pipe on the end of it for some leverage.

 

penetrating oil /or/ heat and use light hammering on the wrench with the blade locked with a block of wood (old saws did not have a locking mechanism for the arbor - they recommended using a block of wood to keep the blade in place "locking the arbor" that way)

 

Gentlemen: Quit talking about locking the blade. The OP said the arbor spins on the blade.

 

I have a 1941 unisaw. The older ones did not have flats. Use the wood to hold agaist the blade and the wrench to loosen the nut. Just like the book says. Please don't go cutting the nut off or beating it off. It is a very simple process. Yes the blade in the picture is on the correct way. The dust shroud is in the front of the sawblade. Just where it should be. Good luck. bob

 

Thus my ninja edit (that my get missed). I'm pretty sure this will work:

Edit - If the nut is on there THAT tight, locking down the blade may not help. You'll likely be able to spin the blade on the arbor.

One other suggestion is to get another arbor nut or even two. Lock them together at the end of the arbor. Put a huge pair of vice grips on the nuts and put something in place to prevent the vice grips from spinning. Contact with the table may be enough. Grab an opened end wrench and put it on the stuck arbor nut after spraying it down and go to town. If it still won't budge, throw a long pipe on the end of it for some leverage.

 

Clamp the pulley. Use a long box-end wrench. Tap/wack it with a hammer. Use an impact wrench if you have it. I would use heat or cold only as a last resort. -Jack

 

Penetrating oil will work, soak it best you can. Use a brass drift of brass hammer, tapping lightly will set up vibrations & allow the oil/fluid to do its job. Patience not brute force, or you will bend the arbor or gall the threads.

 

If it's not rusted on , there's nothing to penetrate.
A friend of mine had the same issue a few years back.
We were able to grip the arbor side flange with a LARGE pair of Channellock pliers while the nut was turned free.
Make sure you have the pliers facing the correct way for maximum gripping power , otherwise they will just slip around the flange.

 

Dynamite. Works every time.

 

Have you got that sucker off yet?

 

I agree with whitewulf- we need an update.

 

Me too

 

i would try taking it off like you started to but hold pressure on the wrench with one hand and tap the end of it with a hammer, you can try this in both directions to possibly shake it loose

 

re: penetrating oil

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ….............. 516 pounds .
WD-40 …........... 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster …...... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench … 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil …..... 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

 

waiting for the results (and not just for him…whatever happens will be good to know beyond table saws).

this is like pacing in the maternity ward!!!

 

this is like pacing in the maternity ward!!!

That made me laugh out loud! Perhaps someone from the medical profession will speak up here, but I am pretty sure that the normal birthing process does not involve the use of penetrating oils, chisels, hammers and impact wrenches.

 

I am beginning to think my recent sinoplasty was easier than this. Yes, they used a chisel.

 

SUCCESS!!

Sorry for taking so long to reply, but I was out of town for work and then did not have a chance to relay the good news. No, there were no flats on my arbor and no button to hold it still. Yes, I used a block of wood against the saw blade (which was pointing the right way).

Lacking any pen. oil at the time, I used some Ed's Red that I had in the garage for my guns. A healthy dose of that, an overnight wait, and then some contorted use of a cordless impact driver finally got it off. Thank God I didn't have to take the table off … sucker weighs a ton.

I appreciate all of the input, as I was about flustered trying to wrench that sucker off. Just in case anyone was wondering, I put it back on wrench tight but not with any power tools or breaker bars.

Now on to build a cross-cut sled!

 

ChuckV…maybe you are onto something…anything to speed the process LOL