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Stickley Quadralinear Leg

4.8K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  Northwest29  
#1 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
 

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#2 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
Nicely done and illustrated Dan, thanks.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
Great post and thanks for sharing!
Jon
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
Good information and an excellent fit!
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
Hi Dan …..This is Joe (wooded) I'm still getting your posts via email. This one is great with nice demo. Have started turning again a will be chiming in. Have missed the jocks a lot.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
That is a slick trick that I'll have to try to remember when I start making the various pieces of craftsman furniture for the house.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
Wow, that's impressive to do it the old school way. Looks like your angles came out spot-on.
I've made lots of posts like that, but always use a locking miter bit. Just one router bit with one setup makes it pretty easy to handle. Your method looks like there's a few more steps, but the results are impressive.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
Awesome Dan. Thanks for posting this. I've seen that type of leg and a sketch or two of how it's done but your tutorial with pictures really brings it all together. Love the legs and love the chair!
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
I'm a little confused about the picture of the dial indicator on the right side of the fence though. Is that just being used as a micro-adjust or some other purpose?
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
I m a little confused about the picture of the dial indicator on the right side of the fence though. Is that just being used as a micro-adjust or some other purpose?

- HokieKen
Kenny, yes that is my micro adjustment, ugly as it is. My fence is pretty close but if I need something dead on I can get it. It was very helpful cutting grooves and angles for the legs.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Stickley Quadralinear Leg

Image

From a Robert W Lang's More Shop Drawings For Craftsman Furniture, there is a section on how Stickley used the Quadralinear leg to achieve quartersawn on all four sides. I used it on my chair. The article states when stacking quartersawn on two sides and laminating the other two sides there was discoloring in the wood from staining or fuming. Stickley could easily machine this joint in his factory. Lang shows a process using the table saw. I followed the process on my Morris Chair and ottoman. Of course I had to divert from part of Lang's process. The legs pieces are 2.5" wide by 1" thick. I made mine 1 1/16" thick. I first cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in their prospective locations.
Image

Next unlike Lang's, I held the piece on a jig to cut the 45 degree cuts. This is where the extra 1/16 comes in. On my test cuts at 1" thick there was some tear out on the edge. The extra material allows for planning down to square.
Image

Image


Image

Image

Once the cuts are precisely made there should be no gaps in the joints.
Image


Image

The joint was easy enough to make and it made a natural mortise that I used to attach the arm to the chair.
Image
A locking miter bit could also be used. HTH
 

Attachments