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Shop vac dust collector ideas

2.5K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  gbarnas  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
In my quest to get my shop set up properly I am working on my dust collection setup. I have a really nice ridged vac and the dustopper bucket rig to go with. It works really well but is very clumsy and a pain to move around. I have done some research online but im looking for ideas for a cart or something to make it easier to use. I see Oneida has a block or something to attach the bucket right to the side of the vac. I could probably make something but not sure how to attach it without risking cracking the vac body. Do any of you have a similar setup?
 
#2 ·
I don't move my shop vac & cyclone around. They live on the floor, tucked out of the way under a set of shelves. When needed I add hose. One benefit of a small shop is that nothing is more than a couple hose-lengths away from the vac.
 
#4 ·
Home Depot sells a 20' hose for the Ridgid shop vacs. The new style hoses don't connect to each other without an adapter now (introduces loss), so the 20' is probably the best choice. I'm sorry I replaced my old Ridgid shop vac as 2 hoses (14') were usually enough to get the job done.
 
#8 ·
I've been using RIDGID's 1-7/8 in. Pro-Grade Locking Hose Kit. That comes in 10-foot lengths, available through HD and WM, maybe others. They couple end-to-end so you can build up lengths as long as you need.

One is permanently hooked to my vac/cyclone. The second section gets stashed out of the way (so I don't need a reel) and comes out when needed. I'm thinking of a third section to get out the door for cleaning the cars.

These are supplemented with a 10-foot length of 1-inch vac hose that hooks up to smaller and more portable tools such as my ROS.
 
#10 ·
The BEST thing I did for my dust collection was to go from a shop-vac to an actual DC, the increased performance and decreased noise were totally worth it, you cannot compare the CFM between the 2' hose vs. a 4" hose. Granted, more hose will be cheaper BUT more hose is less CFM, no matter the size. With the Harbor Freight collector being the cheapest entry at $230, after some fittings, 2 10' 4" hoses, and the beloved remote control switch, you can be all in for a bit under $400. Just my $0.02
 
#11 ·
I had a remote switch for my DC until I accidently sucked it up into the dust collector. Now I have wall switch.
I centrally located my DC and use it just for the Lathe, table saw, thickness planer and 20" band saw. I have one blast gate now to connect it to the table saw. and other wise I move one hose from a dead cap and the the other three tools. I have a dedicated HF shop vac for the 12" band saw and another I switch between the drill press, bench top sander and random orbital sander. I have an excellent downdraft table made from a furnace fan. (Dusty you should come over some time just to see the downdraft table.)
 
#12 ·
I had a remote switch for my DC until I accidently sucked it up into the dust collector. Now I have wall switch.
- Combo Prof
Sorry for laughing, I have been there a few times while cleaning up a table surface thinking, "that's too heavy to get sucked up." FORTUNATELY, my remote is always clipped to my shop apron right where my right hand falls though & I've been faster than the suction over a 10' hose, but definitely an OH $hit!!! moment.
 
#13 ·
I have a big DC for my table saw, band saw and lathe. I finally got that set up this weekend. I'm using the shop vac for the small stuff (sanders, routers, miter saw) I think a 20ft hose should be long enough for me to tuck the whole system into a corner and leave it there.

Don, I will have to stop by to see that downdraft table sometime.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
Don, I will have to stop by to see that downdraft table sometime.

- Thedustydutchman
It is very nice and quite and works amazingly well. Here are the plans

Image


I will add some improvements but only to top (I think fewer and bigger holes would have been better) and storage for the random orbital sander (or sanders) would be nice.

I can email plans you can actually read if you like.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Jerry - if you combine the shop vac and DC for a cleaner shop, will you lose the "dusty" part of your handle? ;)

Regarding the miter saw - I'm about to try something new. The saw is "boxed" between cabinets, so I put a sheet of Masonite behind the saw station and 3/4 ply above. The overhead is cut with angles, but could be a long curve - I hung sheets of EDPM rubber sheet (leftover from a pond project) from that on either side of the saw to keep dust from flying back but still allow angled cuts. I have a 4" PVC pipe that passes through the overhead and ends about 1" above the saw deck. There's a piece of angled white Melamine Masonite that stops about 1/2" above the deck. The angle allows most sawdust to slide down to the opening, where it should be sucked up. Think of it like a floor sweep, but with a slightly offset hose port. I tested the idea with a small shop vac and it seemed to work pretty well. the dust port has a hose that simply deflects down to the deck port. I'm still waiting on delivery of the pipe to set up the DC, so no performance results yet.
 
#16 ·
He can change it to the DustedDutchman. :)

I always thought the best solution for a miter saw was to put it on top of a down draft table, perhaps in addition to what you suggest Glen.

Then I acquired a good miter box, sold the power miter saw and have never missed it.

The fewer the tails the lesser the dust.
 
#17 ·
Maybe the poster formerly known as dusty lol.

I'm still thinking on the miter saw deal. I currently have a sort of neat (to me anyway) hose set up that goes through my bench top and connects to the shop vac. It works reasonably well but im thinking of using rubber or something to extend the dust port behind the blade to catch more of the dust. A downdraft set up would be nice and honestly not terribly difficult with the way my saw bench is built.

I have a miter box that I would really like to use more but I just can't bring myself to give up my power miter. I do need to finish sharpening the saw on the manual box at some point.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
There's always "TheDustlessDuchman". ;)

When I started restoring my first home, I had inherited my Godfather's (manual) miter saw system. Cast iron base, awesome back-saw. Cut tons of moldings with it, and he probably got it from his father - he was the "and son" part of a home building business in the 1940's-60's.

Between arthritis and hand cramps that have come on in the past few years, a couple of minutes of manual work and my hands say "enough"! I'm somewhat forced to use the power tools if I want to enjoy this craft, but even there I need to be aware of my limits.

I still have the hand saws he gave me, but they're wall-art in the shop now. I have memories of his dad patiently sharpening the saw teeth with a set of jewelers files every evening when he came home from the jobs. I honestly don't remember him having anything but a Craftsman table saw in the garage - everything else was a hand tool.

Going to have to think about the downdraft method.. Would not be hard to do.
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
An upright cart is the best way I've found. Collection bucket and cyclone on top.

BTW, I have test the Dust Stopper against a Dust Deputy no question there was more suction with the cyclone.

For small tool collection, if you want to "do it right" you need a HEPA certified dust extractor. They are not a shop vac for sure, and are quite a bit more expensive, but worth every penny.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
I was taking some measurements of my shop tonight and I think a 20ft hose will cover basically the entire shop. I'm leaning towards doing that and tucking the vac and bucket in the corner. Im not sure how much suction I will loose with that but I love the idea of not having the vac to move around.

I have nothing to compare it to but the dustopper seems to work really well and it was more easily available to me than the Cyclone style.

I looked at the actual hepa extractors but didn't want to spend that much. I know you can get a hepa filter for the ridged vac. I'm probably going to end up at least using a bag inside the vac to help with the super small particles.

GBARNAS, I love having tools from my grandfather. He was an auto mechanic and I have some of his mechanic tools and they are some of my most cherished things. No one in my family was or is a woodworker (grandpa had a shop but he was not a woodworker in any sense, but it was a place to mess around with wood) so I have to imagine who used my tools in the generations before me.
 
#21 ·
The Dustopper is pretty good for what it is. I've used it for all kinds of odd tasks, from emptying sand from an old pool filter to sucking up leaves on the patio. Right now, it's in a semi-permanent home under the spindle sander cabinet connected to a small (6G), dedicated shop vac that has a HEPA filter. The low profile was a key point in selecting this over a small cyclone.

The biggest complaint I would have is that it is too "tippy" for general use. I solved that by getting a second bucket, placing a 25# bar bell weight in the bottom, and then placing the Dustopper + bucket inside that one. Currently, it sits in a U-shaped cutout in a shelf below the sander. It's well supported but a snap to remove the hoses and slide the bucket out for emptying or use elsewhere.

As this is a hobby, I need to balance cost with effectiveness, and HEPA dust extractors aren't a justifiable expense for something that might get lightly used 15-20 times a year, and that's if I used it for every sanding project. If I was in a shop daily, that would be a no-brainer.

Jerry - I agree with ya.. there's something special about using a tool that has "history". My dad was a cop, was in the CB's in WWII, and worked part time as a machinist. Always doing home improvement projects with me "supervising". I have a pair of his planes that I still use, and did a frame-up restoration on his Craftsman table saw and snuck it back into his garage a few years before he passed. Closest I've ever come to seeing him tear-up. :)
 
#23 ·
I am on a shop vac with a pre-cyclone. It is just barely able to keep up with my DW735 if I start out all clean. Even though I am a mostly hand tool guy at the moment I don't plan on getting rid of all my power tools. I am also using the twenty foot hose so I can recommend that to the OP. Room in a 10' x 16' shop is always at a premium so I am probably going to get the Harbor Freight $229.00 model and build a dust house on the outside of my shop. I will gain about 5 to 6 square feet of space, decrease noise and hope to gain enough CFM's to keep the DW735 happy.
 
#24 ·
@ControFreak - having just moved from a 12Ă—16 outbuilding to a 20Ă—20 garage, I can relate to space being a premium.

In the old shop, I had the HF blower and hung it on the wall near the ceiling, a Dust Deputy cyclone on a wall mounted shelf below that, with a 30 gallon plastic barrel sitting on the floor below that. Used 6" flex from the bottom of the cyclone to the barrel. Took just 18Ă—18" of floor space. The outlet of the blower vented into a box with a Farr-style (flanged) filter hanging down. The filter slid over the hole in the box and was secured with 3 handle-clamps from Harbor Freight. This allowed me to mount the filter above the air compressor, maximizing the space. I used 4" S-D PVC for ducting and the combination worked well.

I had originally used the DC with the bag, then added a Thien baffle separator + trash can, but the best thing I did was to get the DD Cyclone and a drum with a tight-fitting lid with a gasket seal. $30 on eBay and worth every penny. Trying to use trash cans just didn't provide a tight enough seal to provide effective separation.

I've upgraded the DC system in the new shop because it's attached to the house, but have taken the same approach. New system will have a larger blower and longer outlet box with 2 Farr filters and improved latching method. Upgraded to the XL model cyclone and 6" main pipe. New blower is due to arrive this afternoon, so I can finally start putting things together!