I bought rough sawn white oak to side a barn last fall. I put the boards up green and was advised to let the wood dry out before I ripped the battens. Now using a 15 amp 4000 rpm dewalt with a new ripping blade and the saw bind, slows and trips the breaker. I am not sure my electrical service could handle more amps, if I could find a bigger saw. Whats my best solution? Thanks!
momofmany
ripping cured rough sawn oak
Is the wood closing up behind the blade? If so use a shim/ wedge just big enough to keep the cut from closing up on your blade.Keep the extension cord as short as possible as well.
You say the saw binds, as in the kerf is closing behind the blade and pinching it? Then you need a splitter to hold the kerf open or let the oak dry longer.
If it's lack of power, then use a ripping blade. Fewer teeth, the less power will be required.
If it's lack of power, then use a ripping blade. Fewer teeth, the less power will be required.
First rule out issues with material:
1. If the wood is binding past the blade, use a splitter or wedges to keep the kerf a apart.
2. If the wood is binding as it passes thru the blade, you are probably dealing with a curved edge against the fence. It the wood is slightly bowed, keep the concave surface against the fence.
Most likely you're asking too much of the saw.
If you can find a bandsaw mill, the can stand the boards on edge and gang cut a whole bunch at once. That's the way I would go if possible.
1. If the wood is binding past the blade, use a splitter or wedges to keep the kerf a apart.
2. If the wood is binding as it passes thru the blade, you are probably dealing with a curved edge against the fence. It the wood is slightly bowed, keep the concave surface against the fence.
Most likely you're asking too much of the saw.
If you can find a bandsaw mill, the can stand the boards on edge and gang cut a whole bunch at once. That's the way I would go if possible.
I doubt that the problem is the saw- I've ripped hundreds of feet of 1-inch thick oak through my brother's jobsite Dewalt with no problem at all. It could be the long cord, but the way you mention the wood binding suggests that it's probably some misalignment in the saw - between the blade and either the riving knife or the fence. It could also be tension in the wood, as others mentioned, but the riving knife should mostly take care of that problem (if it's installed and aligned correctly).
All good suggestions above, but my money is on the need for a wedge, the wood is closing on the blade. That said, don't forget how important a sharp blade is….a dull one will cause some of the headache you have.
The extension cord is a very large gauge, but it is 100 ft. After reading your comments I will try a good, heavy shorter cord and have a wedge ready! Won't be trying it until Saturday. I will report back. Thank you! Your help means a lot to me. I was about to buy a different saw!
RWE2156 Total big tool newbie here. I know what concave and convex mean, but I guess I thought the fence was the guide that the board rides against?
There is little to no cupping as I stickered it to let it air dry. So, not sure what to do with your advice?
I don't have access to a band saw, yet!
My dear Father-in-law showed me how to use a skill saw as a table saw….many years ago. But, do they have more power? Not sure why I would in this application?
There is little to no cupping as I stickered it to let it air dry. So, not sure what to do with your advice?
I don't have access to a band saw, yet!
My dear Father-in-law showed me how to use a skill saw as a table saw….many years ago. But, do they have more power? Not sure why I would in this application?
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