That's a very nice setup you have there. What its worth will depend a lot on your particular marketplace. I doubt if the outfeed table will had a whole lot to the overall value but the after market fence sure does IMO. Based on the age of the saw, about 20 years, I would think that you should be able to get something in the range of $450-$550 for it.

 

Yeah I doubt you will get 450-550 for it. The Vega rails and fence add a bit, but not much. Id say you would be in the ball park of about 300-350 bucks for it. The problem is that at 450-550 price tag, anyone that knows anything could buy a used hybrid saw for that and they arent going to pay the same price for a lesser contractor saw. Not trying to be negative. Thats just the way I would look at it if I were shopping for a used saw. If you can get an extra 50 bucks for the outfeed table with great.

I say ask 400 and take 300 from the first person that offers.

 

The thing about the prices you see on CL and FB is that many times, the seller has no clue what the tool is actually worth, they are guessing and hoping for an easy buck. On FB, you get 6 pictures max, and very little room to describe your item. On CL, you can post up to 12 pictures and ramble on all you want. Your pictures are good, that will help, then describe everything that is included in the price; if you have a dado insert, if you have upgraded the dust collection capabilities and so on. If you've seen similar saws in your area, use that as a guide for pricing, keeping an eye open for how many ads you see for table saws in your area. I for one never publish my address, I always but a disclaimer about how I don't play games, no "codes", no agents, no shipping, - in person, face to face, cash only, and the potential buyer needs to make an appointment to see the tool. If you can set it up somewhere outside your shop, with power to run it, any buyer won't be able to see all of your other tools, you don't want to give anyone ideas about stealing your stuff. Good luck.

 

In my area, a stock TS2424 will sell quickly listed for ~$200-250 in good condition, more depending on accessories. Less if a beat up rusty mess.
A Vega fence would be be worth about 50% of new retail price, or ~$125-150 stand alone to right person.
Be sure to list any extra cross cut sleds for saw you don't want for new TS. Those show you are serious wood worker, not a carpenter who abuses tools. Or add a Gripper push block; and might get another $50 out of deal.

My SWAG would be actual sale price range from $325-$450 with Vega fence, depending on blade(s), insert(s), and other accessories (plus location and competition at time of sale).

IMHO - Be really surprised if it needed to go below $350 after week of listing, with current buyers market due new tool delivery lead times and overall upgrades. Everything wood working on CL is more expensive last 9-10 months with Covid isolation at home.

Sold my near perfect, well tuned one owner TS2424 for fair price of $375 (listed $395) when I upgraded. Was sold to second caller on day 1 of listing. Had router table extension, router plate, and rockler fence (no router), same mobile base, fence shifted to 12/36 capacity, plus all the accessories one needs including an out-feed table.

Price always depends on how fast you want to sell?
Offer it for $300 and estimate it would sell in couple hours due upgraded Vega fence and tables here in AZ?

If you have time to sell, might ask $450-$495 and only lower my listed price by $25 every 5-7 days if no one was calling.
Another 'trick' first 24 hours after listing is to respond to interested folks immediately but not available to show same day, but can show it day later. This gives you time to see if you have just one person interested, or several; so can judge if pricing is too cheap (lots of calls), or just about right (2-3 calls).

Best Luck.

 

For about anything used, if in excellent shape it should go for about 1/2 new street price. If not like new, about 1/3 street price. A few things, in table saws a Unisaw or PM66 for instance, maybe a little more.

Vega fence, a big plus. Accessories, like your stack of ZCIs and jigs that fit that table only wil boost the price. Missing anything, like the blade guard, lowers the price.

I soon will be selling my TS3660. Seems like cheap, but then again, with no riving knife, they should really all get scrapped in the name of safety.

The new price for the current version is $750.

 

Thank you all for your comments. Listed the saw for $375, it was was gone in 15 minutes. Now I am waiting for my new sawstop. Giddy like a school girl…

 

For about anything used, if in excellent shape it should go for about 1/2 new street price. If not like new, about 1/3 street price. A few things, in table saws a Unisaw or PM66 for instance, maybe a little more.

Vega fence, a big plus. Accessories, like your stack of ZCIs and jigs that fit that table only wil boost the price. Missing anything, like the blade guard, lowers the price.

I soon will be selling my TS3660. Seems like cheap, but then again, with no riving knife, they should really all get scrapped in the name of safety.

The new price for the current version is $750.

- tvrgeek

I'll gladly take any of those older quality saws with splitters and no riving knife. I am all about safety but don't live in fear of a properly set up splitter either. Having said that, I've never been a fan of the Ridgid saws for various reasons based on friends owning different iterations. One of my friend's early ones didn't even have a TEFC motor which was problematic. Just my opinion of course and not a hard stated fact. Good luck with your new saw!

 

A splitter like a micro-jig is just as safe as a riving knife if you don't tilt the blade. I used to make zero clearance inserts by cutting the slot long on the TS and then putting a wood splitter in there, filing down the sides until it just barely was narrower than the blade.

Still, riving knives are great. You can also prevent kickback by using a short fence add-on, which imitates the short fences of European saws. It gives the wood a place to go if there's tension in there rather than pushing against the fence which pushes the wood in the cut against the side of the blade.

 

A splitter like a micro-jig is just as safe as a riving knife if you don t tilt the blade. I used to make zero clearance inserts by cutting the slot long on the TS and then putting a wood splitter in there, filing down the sides until it just barely was narrower than the blade.

Still, riving knives are great. You can also prevent kickback by using a short fence add-on, which imitates the short fences of European saws. It gives the wood a place to go if there s tension in there rather than pushing against the fence which pushes the wood in the cut against the side of the blade.

- Loren

100% agree. Would love a riving knife and my next saw will have one. In its absence, my micro jig and original splitter work just fine and are safe when properly used.

 

I have used the micro jig splitter for years with complete satisfaction.

 

Hi, I'm new here, I have a Ts2424-1, and am currently in the process of making an extension wing, if you don't mind me asking, how did you go about building yours, they look great!

 

Hi, I m new here, I have a Ts2424-1, and am currently in the process of making an extension wing, if you don t mind me asking, how did you go about building yours, they look great!

- idhatemet00

one side is the original cast iron wing. the inserts are just cut from hardboard. i was tired of crap falling through the openings. the outfeed and side table were simple plywood construction covered in hardboard.

 

one side is the original cast iron wing. the inserts are just cut from hardboard. i was tired of crap falling through the openings. the outfeed and side table were simple plywood construction covered in hardboard.

- Kurt T. Kneller
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aw thats genius to put the hardboard in between the grates, and sounds good, thanks!