Looks lile the ts3660, it is the model before the ts3650. I think it is US made. Quality saw, if it is all there and works, the price is reasonable. Should have built in mobile base and be a true 1.5hp induction motor. Large step up vs benchtop saw, and worthy of consideration. Good luck.

 

I just sold a newer model Ridgid just like that one, mine was only a few years old though and I sold it for 250.00. The TS you are looking at is a bit older, but not sure how much older it is. If it runs good, motor spins without any funny noises. Maybe take the belt off and turn the motor on and just listen to the motor. Run the saw with the belt on and listen for any noises coming from the arbor. Upon a positive inspection of the TS I might be inclined to tell the seller his saw has an estimated value of 175.00 based on age and also based on the original retail price which I believed was around 499.00. Look for the manufacture date because that might help your case when trying to get your price. Personally I would not give more then 200.00 for the saw and would walk away otherwise. Last week I bought a 3 hp Grizzly with stock fence for 300.00, and I don't consider that price a "once in a lifetime" deal, as those deals come around on a regular basis. Last month I found a Unisaw for 200.00 but it was sold.

Just my opinion but I hope it helps.

 

It's a TS2424 ….made by Emerson in the USA. Parts should be readily available, even if just plucked from other old Emerson or TTI/Ryobi made Craftsman or Ridgid saws. $150-$200 would be a pretty decent price….see what they'll take. The rust should come off pretty easily, but takes work, and it's a great bartering point….as is the lack of the blade guard and miter gauge, or whatever else it's missing. Be sure it runs, hand wheels work properly (sawdust can make them feel stiff, but a clean and lube will fix that), check that the bearings are good by spinning the arbor and listening for squealing or grinding, and that there are no cracks in the cast iron under pinnings, or no other obvious dings or bends in the fence. A used miter gauge will run $10-$20, but I wouldn't even bother with that….you can get a nice Incra for ~ $50 that'll be a whole lot better. Used blade guards pop up in the $10-$20 range sometimes too….use those missing items to bring the price down to where it's fair. Good luck!

Here's what it should/could look like:

 

Benchtop bandsaw's normally aren't that good. There are a few bench bandsaw's that work good, but I normally stay away from bench top band saws. The rigid table saw, my target price would be at about $200 at the most. Just make sure that the TS works, and runs good. Also make sure that the motor has no problems. One time I got a Scroll saw, it was really good but 2 weeks down the road the motor stopped working. So good luck!

AJ

 

Angie, I have that exact same TS. It's a good one.

knotscott is right, it's a bit above market at $265, so you may be able to negotiate a better price. And that rust will clean up.

Aside from the missing blade guard I did not see a miter with the saw. Also, look at the underside, there should be a dust chute with a port for a shop vac.

Speaking of the miter, even if it is there I would trash the stock unit and replace it with an Incra. I put a V27 on mine, but Rockler has the V120 on sale right now.

Check the blade adjustments to make sure everything moves freely.

Is there an opportunity to plug it in and heard it run? What kind of shape is the belt in?

My negotiating points would be all about the missing gear and the stock craptastic belt that will probably squeal a little on start up if it's been sitting any length of time (mine does). And a new Ridgid TS from HD is only $500 for pity's sake, you're doing him a favor to cart the thing away.

 

Don't those gray Ridgids carry the lifetime warranty that stays with the tool?

 

Can't help you on the table saw, but the biscuit jointer I'm pretty sure is most likely from Harbor Freight. A lot of the tools they sell are by Chicago Electric Power Tools. Here's the link for the only biscuit jointer I coul find on their site: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-plate-joiner-68987.html

 

It's not a 3660 or a 3650 but as Scott stated it most likely is a 2424. Without a better view of the fence it hard to tell but there's an outside chance it's a 3612. The fence on a 3612 has better features than the one found on the 2424. There should be a nameplate on the left hand side of the saw which will tell you the model number. As others have stated, the asking price is on the high side for a saw in that condition.

Hey Scott, the next time you see a blade guard assy. for $10 to $20 PM me will ya?

 

Will do…watch this one never know.

 

+1 on knotscott's comments. and nbwusa is correct . those gray ridgid stationary tools do carry a lifetime warranty regardless of whether or not you are the first owner. one thing to check, after the motor and the arbor, is to loosen the tilt lock , which is above the elevation handwheel and bevel the raised blade to 45*. some users, forgetting to loosen the bevel lock, bent the bevel rod or the side of the cabinet where the bevel handle goes through the side of the base. this can cause alignment and operational issues.

i have a 2412, the entry level version of the 3612, to which i've added OEM stuff so it proxies a 3612, which i firmly believe was the best 10" CI contractor saw ever made. i believe the saw shown is a 2424 judging from the shape of the front rail. it's just like the 2412 and the 3612 front rail and fence head were broader and shaped differently. also, the 2424, like the 3612, is a dual voltage motor. and while it doesn't develop more HP @220v, 220v configured motors will help in balancing the load of all your tools relative to your electrical service. good luck.

if the motor runs, i'd say anything between $200 and $250 would give you a very good TS. here's the owners manual:

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/B9BE8FCB73BA458285A06ABF5CD66CCD/TS2424_Table_Saw_Man.pdf

i think so much of my two emerson electric built TSs that i'm selling my recently returned to service unisaw for lack of room. if you want good TS, i wouldn't let this one slip through my fingers, assuming it checks out mechanically.

 

i got a bosch table saw,, its a really good saw for 400$ every powerful and accurate,, cuts up to 25 1/2 ,, id recommend that saw for anything else around that price

 

Don't let the rust scare you. As long as there is no deep pitting, you can take care of it. There are a lot of commercially available products to bring that back to life that are relatively easy to use. That saw and it's craftsman cousin (both Emerson made) are all over the CL ads in my area. They generally go for 200.00 in much nicer physical condition.

 

Angie - What's the status of this TS endeavor?

 

OK… so I went by there today to check it out. I had talked to the guy that has it for sale last night. He picked it up somewhere so he had little information about it. He also stumbled when I asked about the miter gage. He kept asking me what I was talking about. When I asked about the blade protection he said he thought it was there. But I didn't find it anywhere. He said he would leave an extention cord for me to turn it on. He had never tried.

Well… when I got there there was junk all over it, including a weedeater that was leaking fuel all over the top of it. This thing has the herc-u-lift so I wheeled it out. I really like that. So the first thing I found when I looked at the back was this…. ???? What the heck?

I'm not really sure about the rope. It looks as if it's holding the motor up. So then I turned it on… nothing…it didn't start. I looked around the motor again and checked out the belt.

You can't tell from the pic but what I found was that the belt was off. So I put the belt back on and turned it on again. It started right up for me. It was suprisingly NOT loud. Are they really that quiet? My Craftsman is pretty loud.

I also played around with the bevel. It moved pretty easy. When I lowered and raised the blade thought it was pretty tight.

Here's a pic of the fence. Someone had asked about it.

I like it… but I think after what I've learned I'm definitely not interested in $265. I called the guy back and haven't heard from him yet. I'm thinking I'm going to offer him $150. With the rope issue though… I'm wondering if that's too high. What's up with the rope?
Not so sure about the blade that's on it either. I know it's not carbide.

So… what do you guys think?

 

toolie…. thanks for the link to the manual. That was actually quite helpful.

 

These saws are typically pretty quiet compared to a direct drive universal saw. There's quite a bit of rust on the motor mount mechanisms….makes me wonder how it got there. If the motor won't stay put without the rope and the belt in place, there's an issue that needs to be addressed. Not sure how mechanically inclined you are, or how much of a project you're willing to take on…it should be all repairable but I'd check into that rope before making an offer. If you discover that the rope was just to hold the motor in place during transit, and it's a non-issue, it'd be worth an offer….I think your $150 offer is a reasonable starting point, and I might go to $200, but there's valid reason to proceed with caution.

Here's what it should look like:

 

The motor is quiet because its a induction motor… The universal (Brushed) ones are noiser…

 

Belt driven induction motors are crazy quiet compared to universal motors.

 

It's not worth more than $50; then only if you're more interested in restoring the thing than making furniture…..or something…....anything but that thing.

 

if the motor mount is broken and thus the reason for the rope that is most concerning. if that is the case i would walk away. if u can take the rope off and run the ts u are probably good to go but my bid likely would not go higher then 150.00. i would proceed with caution.

 

By the looks of it, if I wanted it in that condition, I'd start at $100 and bargain, but definitely not over $150. I'm leery of that rope holding the motor like some of the bracketry is missing. If it is, and you can't make it, you might be into some parts cost to make it usable.
............Jim

 

angie….i'd study table 3 of the parts diagrams at the end of the OM really carefully and then visit the saw again. it almost looks like parts 60, 61 and 62 are missing and the owner may be using the rope as an unnecessary precaution. since the weight of the motor is what tensions the drive belt, those parts don;t really do much. they are easily replaced and their absence can be leverage for price reductions. i have a 2412 that is an entry level model of that line of saws and i won't ever sell it if i don't have to. i'm selling a 3hp unisaw rather than sell one of my 2 emerson built 10" CI TSs, that's how much i like my contractor saws.

you're right, the herc-u-lift is the best mobile base ever made. as for that saw being worth $50, i have to disagree. that fence system can be set up for accuracy that rivals t2 fences and is extremely smooth. if you don't care about using it's on board tape, those rails can be shifted right about a foot to provide 36" of rip capacity from the existing fence system. also, the motor is a 1 1/2hp dual voltage motor, so if 220v is available, rewiring the motor is easy and possible. BTW, the unit featured in knotscott's posting is on it's base backwards. and the 2424 had 2 set screws, parts #15 in table 3 of the parts section of the OM, that are used to align the blade with the miter slot, much like th eafter market PALS product.

it's a bit rough, but the table and wings will clean up rather easily and quite well, assuming no pitting. the OEM miter gauge was nothing special (something like an incra v27 or v120 are improvements over the OEM) so use it's absence as fodder for price reductions. remove the rope and if the belt is tensioned by the weight of the motor, those parts should still be available from either ereplacements or m&d mower.

BTW, those ridgid gray colored stationary power tools carry a lifetime guarranty that attaches to the tool, regardless of who the owner is (unlike ridgid's current LSA, which is available only to a tool's original owner). and i have never been denied any part for my similarly covered ridgid tool that has failed, even the bolt on the front of the saw that secures the bevel angle which i accidently bent while rushing one day.

maybe it's because mine perform so well that i really like these saws. it's a good next step up from your current TS (a benchtop , right?). i wouldn't go more than $200 and feel anything between $150 and $200, assuming it's mechanically correct, is a pretty good deal.

 

Angie. There is a small bolt missing that holds the motor tension. Some of those saws had a spring tension to keep the belt tight. Mine is just the weight of the motor. This bolt needs to be loosened when raising or lowering the blade. It is a common thread and if broken you can tap new threads. I have the "craftsman versions" of these Emmerson made saws. I still use the FIRST one I bought in 1976. What I like is , if the motor quits, you can replace only the motor, you can replace bearings in spindle. That fence appears to be a stable one. I think the price is a bit high (Maybe in your area is reasonable) My 3hp I paid $175. The other ones I never paid more than $100. Compared to a bench type saw, you will be happy with this type of saw.

 

I'd start at $150, and go as high as $200… that's a fine machine despite the condition. It should clean up well, and you'd have a solid performer for your shop.

 

look on craigs list. You can find a saw in much better condition for a reasonable price. I wouldn't walk from that saw, I would run!