disassemble in this order, making sure the saw in unplugged from the power outlet: black (power) first, white (neutral) second, green (ground) last. when connecting the new 220 cord, attach the green wire first then either of the two remaining wires (they are both hot) to either of the switch, and/or plug, connection points. 220v wiring is really relatively simpler than 110v wiring as there's no neutral. so ground wire goes to ground connection point and either wire goes to either of the two remaining connection points. no way to have polarity issues.

get a 110/220v test light at hd and verify there's 220v at the switch once the new wire is in place before energizing the motor.

FWIW, i use this on my 10-340 BS (2 hp motor):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/9-ft-12-3-3-Wire-Appliance-Cord-YC-2A1-YC-2F4/202353559#specifications

works like a charm, and it's relatively inexpensive.

 

Is that an extension cord? I'd heard/read not to use an extension cord for a 220v saw, but it would be much easier to just replace the plug on the existing R4512 cord than replace the entire cord. I already have the 12 guage cable, but I'm fine eating that cost if it means only replacing the plug and using an extension cord.

 

Good advice about making sure its unplugged. Yesterday I put a new cord on my jointer. The old cord was so short that I had to use an extension cord. I looked down and saw an unplugged extension cord so I got started. About 5 minutes in there was a flash. Not sure how I didn't get shocked, but I didn't. Did get a burn mark on my finger. Turned out there were two cords in the area and I looked at the wrong one. Thank god for breakers.

 

One reason someone might be saying not to use an extension cord for 220V is-if I read the code correctly-
any wire under 6 guage used for 220 must be color coded correctly, red and black for power, you can not
just color tape the ends of the wire as was formerly done-except for heavy duty generator cords they do
not tend to make 220V extension cords, not enough demand. I have not seen OSHA inspecting home
shops lately, so toolie's instructions should be OK.

 

personally, for something as simple as the 4512 power cord, i'd probably replace the cord from the switch to the outlet as i'm not real big on cutting molded plugs off wires if it can be avoided. i don't like undertaking actions that can't be easily and completely put back as they were. bit i'm pretty comfortable and knowledgeable around electric components, so it's not a problem for me. if adhdan is more comfortable just replacing the plug on the existing switch wire, the extension cord i linked will work safely for the 4512.

 

I've been using a short extension (220 V) on my TS for several years. No probs, but it is a heavy 12/3 cord.
Bill

 

Well, I had to wire the plug onto the 12 gauge cord I bought myself, so I'm pretty sure I could replace the factory plug - which is what the manual assumes for a DIY conversion. But on balance I really would prefer to have a single longer cord, and I'd like it to be thicker and better insulated than the factory cord.

My confidence in replacing this cord seems to swing back and forth day to day. I know it's actually not a difficult project, but on the other hand I don't want to do something wrong or overlook something and kill my saw or myself. I mean, if I'm going to get killed by my own table saw I want it to be in a Maximum Overdrive-style bloodbath, not a stupid electrical accident.

Maybe I'll take a stab at it myself and then have a friend with more experience double-check my work.

 

Maybe I'll take a stab at it myself and then have a friend with more experience double-check my work.

sounds like a good idea. running the 220v wired motor on 110 shouldn't hurt it. it'll just run slower. so yo umight consider wiring the motor first, then testing it @ 110v. if it runs slowly, then the motor's wired correctly for 220 (at least that was true for the dual voltage 3hp baldor motor that was on my briefly owned 70s vintage unisaw). replace the cord and test the switch connections for 220v before energizing. if the motor is wired correctly for 220v and the switch/cord combo support 220v, you should be good to go.

 

Thanks for the advice. Another question - probably stupid, but what do I know. Is there any reason I should replace the cord between the motor and the switch when I replace the power cord? I would assume not, since the factory cords are already sufficient for 220v, but I just want to make sure.

If I have to replace that cord too, I'll either just replace the plug or hire it out. Introducing more cord-swapping just means more chances for human error.

 

Is there any reason I should replace the cord between the motor and the switch when I replace the power cord?

absolutely none.

 

Going through this right now on my grizzly saw. Everything is wired for 220 but i need a longer cord. From my understand 12-3 extension cords converted to power cords should all be rated for the same volts and amps correct? My saw is a 8amp at 220v and requires a 14guage cord, Nema 6-20 plug.

I am trying to pick one out at my local menards and there is a flexzilla cord thats on sale 12-3 (25') that shows 125volts and 15 amps and another roll of power cord with no ends thats rated 600volts and a higher amp. However talking with an electrical friend he thought that might be the marketing side of it since the flexzilla is more for home use. Any suggestions? Id like the flexzilla because its cheaper and I have liked their product in the past.

 

The flexzilla should be fine. It is rated for 15amps thru a single wire. You will be using it with only 8 amps thru each conductor. Just don't make the cord 25' long.

 

The flexzilla should be fine. It is rated for 15amps thru a single wire. You will be using it with only 8 amps thru each conductor. Just don t make the cord 25 long.

- firefighterontheside

Will I have issues around 25'? I only have one 220 outlet so I was planning on making it close to that.

 

I am really watching this thread because I am planning on rewiring my 4512 in the next month. I have no budget to redo wiring on my shop (just got quotes) and so converting my TS to 220v will get it off a much needed 110v circuit. I am also about 25 feet from the only 220v available. What is my best option? What gauge to run that far? I really have no closer option. I am pretty confident I can make a cord, but I am worried about the distance I have to travel with it.

 

Well, you will be fine. I didn't realize you actually needed the length. It will be fine.

 

That Flexzilla cable is rated for 125 volts… you're planning on running 240v thru it… might be OK… maybe not. I'd look for some marking on the cable its self to see if it might actually be rated for a higher voltage.

 

It has connectors for 125v. Each conductor is rated for 15a. If he puts new connectors on and wires to the 240v tool, then he's only doing 8a thru each conductor. Well within the wire's rating.

 

The extension cord is SJTW, which in theory should be able to handle up to 300v, and is not oil resistant. The SOOW cable is an extra hard service cord rated for up to 600v, and both the outer jacket and each individual conductor is oil resistant. Either would work, but IMO, the SOOW cable would be a better choice.

Cheers,
Brad

 

Same here, new plug on TS, and then made a 10 foot extension cord out of I think 10/3, did some research on rating. probably 50 bucks with wire and plugs, but I have several machines wired for 220V including DC.

I ve been using a short extension (220 V) on my TS for several years. No probs, but it is a heavy 12/3 cord.
Bill

- Bill White

 

SJ cord is a 300V tool cord. SO cord is a 600V heavy duty version.

If there is a code article that says I need to have a 12/4 just so I can use the red instead of the white, I wouldn't know and ignore it out of hand.

Amperage rating is per conductor.

if the cord is 50' or less I wouldn't worry.