I bought one, so I can't answer all of them but I can tell you that the higher HP you can get, the better. HP will come into play when you're figuring out how wide the maximum cut will be. You can go look at the websites for Woodmizer and other sawmill companies to see what horsepower their machines are. Most of them, have options to upgrade to a larger motor.

For blade lubrication, I used to use water but there is still some sap buildup so I started adding Dawn dishwashing detergent to the mix. That really made a difference on blade buildup.

As for gas vs electric? I'm sure I would prefer electric but mine is built on a trailer to keep my options open if I ever need to go and mill at a different location.

 

welcome,jeff!!
glad to see ya getting into a build. the only advise i really have is to head over to both of these sites

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/

lots of great knowledge there.

 

I hope you have a lot of space to stack lumber.

Welcome to Lumberjocks

 

AZWoody- Ya know I started there, but haven't thought to go back now that I better understand the components. I'll have to slap my own head for that one.

Dawn soap got it.

That is my biggest con with electric too. I'm using it in my maintenance yard at work. I know I have a job as long as I want it, but sooner or later it will have to be moved. I'm not sure the next destination will have power before it gets there. Our final home will be on 10 acres up north, but Holy Cow at the money they want to run power lines in!

tomsteve- Thank you, I have been lurking around the forestry Forum, but I hadn't come across the Arborists site.
Glad the evening is still young!

Monte- Beautiful build Sir!
Two questions:
1) Am I seeing right that your sled slides rather than rolls?
2) Did you try wheels and find sliding to be better?

I have space, albeit not as much as you!
We spend time up north, so the thicker it is the more likely I will transport it north. But I'm not talking about a constant flow of lumber either. During the summer my wood working time comes to a screeching halt. So I only need to keep enough lumber in the proper stages to maintain a modest flow of seasoned boards.
Although I brought one slab home to show off a bit, and now there is a list on my desk written in the hands of both daughters and my better half. They scoffed when I set down a large glass jug with a piece of masking tape that read : Chainsaw Fuel Fund

 

It's on rollers. We will cut about 10,000 board feet a year with it.

 

It s on rollers. We will cut about 10,000 board feet a year with it.

- Monte Pittman

That's a lot of wood! Thank you very much for sharing pics.

 

I love the pics here. One day I'm going to need to build either a dedicated slabber or a sawmill that can do some of the larger logs I get in. Maybe something cheap that can pare the larger ones down so then I can use my regular sawmill which can handle a 24" cut tops.

Btw, don't forget the cost of bandsaw blades into all this. You can run through them pretty quick and unless you have a place to sharpen them regularly, you'll need to keep a pretty decent stock on hand.
Also, then you need to have a couple different types for different woods. It's a fun hobby for me, but definitely not cheap, haha.

 

I have absolutely nobody local for blades or sharpening. I use probably 30 blades a year from Cooks.

 

Monte, Post the pics showing why you need covers over your wheels! I see you still haven't done yours

 

I have absolutely nobody local for blades or sharpening. I use probably 30 blades a year from Cooks.

- Monte Pittman

What woods are you cutting normally? I go through so many because I'm in the desert and it's mostly mesquite and eucalyptus which are both brutal on blades. That, and they've all been through sandstorms constantly over the years and no amount of washing can get it all. I can get at most, 3 2'x6' logs per blade with mine before I get a lot of serious rippling.

I had to buy my own sharpener and setter which is expensive and a very time consuming job.

 

A couple "little" scratches and people think I am unsafe. They didn't need stitches.

I have cut elm, oak,poplar black walnut, walnut, Hackberry, maple, honey locust, Boxelder, spruce, cottonwood, Russian olive, red cedar,ash and lots of Beetle Kill Pine.

 

AZWoody- I have not forgotten about blades, however since I have the chainsaw mill I have considered exactly what you said, to build a smaller mill and use the chainsaw mill to bring the bigger logs down to size.
That could possible make it a comfortable size to have at home, and storing it much easier.
I spent some years running a firewood processor and became pretty good friends with the owner. I can pick and choose the logs I want and pay for them by running the processor.
Since I am only looking to supply my own wood working habits, it seems a reasonable way to go.

Monte- Sounds like you are a pro with your mill! And what pro doesn't get a scratch her or there?

To my knowledge I have no one local for saw sharpening either. I still have a mountain of 10 and 12" blades for my table and miter saws I can't find any decent place to sharpen. Local hardware store ships them out. I tried that but was so unhappy with the result I bought a new blade the day after I picked up the newly sharpened one.

 

jeff, check these guys out for your bades to get sharpened.
http://www.dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/pricelist.html

 

That could be a handy link thanks!
Do you use them? If so are you satisfied?

 

There is a guy near where I live that makes some really good looking band saws. He can make me a 42" saw with 20HP Honda engine for $4500 without the trailer. Somewhere around $5200 to put the 16' rails on wheels.

 

That could be a handy link thanks!
Do you use them? If so are you satisfied?

- Jeff2016

im going to be. ive also been using lical guy but im not happy. i read of them on another forum and a search for reviews turns up nothing but happy customers.