I use #10 1-1/2" tek screws (self drilling tip) to mount all kinds of electrical stuff on them all the time. Most of the weight will be shear, so they will hold a lot.

 

I'd do a 1×4 french cleat with 2 2" screws in each stud.

 

I'll second the french cleat idea. It's a great way to hang cabinets.

 

french cleat for sure

 

Just make sure you don't spin them out when you are driving them in and you'll be fine.

 

ahock, et al, the studs are hollow for all practical purposes. All you are screwing into is the sheetrock and 16 gauge sheet metal. 1" teks are a bit short on 5/8 rock due to the amount of space taken by the drill point, l -1/4" will do the job of holding a thin metal bracket. Beyond that, you need to allow for the thickness of the hanger material. They are not like wood studs at all.

 

Thanks guys. I use the cleat system when I am hanging upper cabinets in a house for the simple reason it is easier to level and hold a cleat, than it is to level and hold a cabinet.

Again appreciate the advice.

 

That's a pretty large cabinet and when filled, it is going to be heavy.

I would opt for Moly Bolts to hold the French Cleat. They will never pull out or shear off and you don't have to worry about striping the threads in the thin sheet metal stud.

 

I had a hanging bookcase come down off steel studs a few years back.
Not a pretty picture.
I popped the drywall and ran 3/4" plywood between the studs and anchored the wight on a 2×4 cripple under each side and middle.
Back up with the dry wall and used a french cleat.
It's still up and over loaded with books as is the usual problem. ;-)

Bob

 

I too cast my vote for French Cleats.

 

As Bob 2 says, the best way would be to put in backing if you want to open up the wall. The patch job behind the book case wouldn't have to be very pretty until it is removed) If yoi opened up a hole a bit under 30", it would cover and you could slip in some 2×3's, screw them in the metal studs. That would hold forever!!

 

Topamax, I wasn't discounting your screw suggestion; I was thinking of going through a 3/4" cleat, 5/8" drywall, and into the stud. Well…after doing the math (which is helpful sometimes) 1 1/2" would work just as well as 2".

 

just another thing to go with this is snap toggler's they hold up to 350lbs on 5/8 drywall if you put these threw the drywall and the stud you will have a very sound method for mounting.

here's a link for them they sell them at the borg store.
http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

 

ahock, I thought yoiu didn't know they were basically hollow, thinking more like a wood stud.

I have used the togglers to run conduit, hang small panels ect. I still like to hit a steell stud every once in a while or one side of a panel. A little bit of moisture and sheet rock goes to mush!! :-((

 

topa i understand wanting to hit a stud how i use to use these when installing office fixtures was you drill the pilot hole threw the drywall and the stud and then insert the toggler so it is behind both and then also put togglers between each stud on an 80" cabinet i would use somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 to 10 togglers

 

They should hold forever in a steel stud!! They hold really well in drywall, I just don't trust drywall )

 

I usually mount plywood to the wall, the same dimension as the cabinets, and secure the plywood with self tapping screws. I can then mount the cabinets normally with screws through the cleats into the plywood. This method requires side and bottom trim, but it's sturdy.