It's like most things we use. Some get it, some don't. The trick is to do just what you did. Get one and start using it. You've seen the video on how to keep the edge, now it just takes practice. They are great tools for some situations. Some of the Jocks use them a lot, others of us use them on occasion. It'll be up to you how it's used and how often. But, you're well on your way by not being intimidated by all the talk. It looks like you really have it going on quite well

 

I agree that scrapers are not high tech equipment. I made mine from an old handsaw blade and use a file and screwdriver to refresh the edge as needed.

I do find it a lot more enjoyable to use since I made a holder for it (no more cramping hands and burnt thumbs).

 

I don't know why, it just felt so good feeling the scraper cut away miniature shavings. I guess similar to the way a nice plane feels when it is cutting the way it's supposed to.

And I did notice how hot the scraper gets after a short time. I wasn't expecting that haha but it makes sense the metal would heat up like that due to friction. What did you make for a holder?

 

Search card scraper holder and you should see several options. Very simple to make. Send me a pm if you don't find what you need and I'll take a pic of mine.

 

Hand scrapers are a great tool, I use one almost every time I am preparing a wood surface. A properly edged scraper works almost effortlessly removing thin shavings. I find that after using one for a while you can develop a technique where the heat buildup isn't an issue. I used to use a "holder" but find the tactile use with my hands a better option, like sometimes using more of the right or left part of the scraper rather than just the middle. Using a holder doesn't allow that benefit.

Scrapers come in different thicknesses. I have smaller sized scrapers which are thicker than normal and the shorter length I ground a 30 degree bevel and find it useful for removing glue along corner and edges of projects. Dominic has a site set up where he sells a smaller credit card set of scrapers at a steal. That's where I got mine. If interested you can get them here: http://www.tgiag.com/scrapers.html ... I am not affiliated with them but just a happy customer. BTW, since you'll then have other scrapers to work with you can grind them into other shapes other that just straight for scraping concave and convex mouldings. Also you can make your own beader scrapers. Good luck with using your scraper.

 

My first experience with scrapers was in college. I am an Industrial Arts major so we used them regularly. I learned to like them and used them often but I have never owned one and I really can't tell you why. We sharpened our by bending the tang on a file just enough to allow it to hold when placed in a bench dog hole in the work bench. We would stand the scraper on the file and draw the scraper toward us. When we were satisfied with this we burnished it. That simple and they would really work well. Congratulations on your experience.

 

Thanks guys. I'm itching at the bit to get back out there and continue playing with them.

Question:
I know you can buy a burnisher to create the burr on scrapers. I just used a screwdriver to create the burr since that is what the instructor in the video I watched used. Does the burnisher make that much of a difference? I'm assuming it does or else other guys wouldn't buy them..

 

Card scrapers may not be as sexy as hand planes, but they sure are useful.

I've never tried a screwdriver, but do have a burnisher. From what I understand the concern with the screwdriver is that the metal is likely softer than the scraper. The burnishers are hardened, so should stand up to the abuse of running them down a corner better. (shrugs) Dunno what's best, but whatever works to get your burr.

 

Paul Sellers (correctly) pointed out that nail sets are cheap, widely available, and are made of hardened tool steel. That's what I've been using for a while.

In a pinch, I've used hex wrench shafts. Anything harder than the card scraper steel should work. Usually scrapers aren't using ultra-hard steel, something like Rockwell 40-50.

 

Ideally you want to use a round rod to put the burr on the scraper. I use a 1/4" carbide spiral router bit mounted in a handle. Works great and when I need it as a router bit, I just remove it from the handle.

 

You can get the Hock burnisher without a handle pretty reasonably at Highland Hardware and others I'm sure. Then make your own handle or just use without. What I read about it was the harder steel and the higher polish on it made for a better burr. If it were more than $15 I wouldn't have bothered, but that was worth it to me and Hock tools have a good reputation.

Here's a hook angle guide I don't know where it's from, I saved it when I saw someone else post it.
For cabinet scrapers etc
Guide to Hook Angles
0° Fine wood such as marquetry.

0° to 5° General-purpose wood scraping.

5° to 10° Faster stock removal.

10° to 15° Removing paint, varnish, etc

There's also a good video on sharpening them if you sign up for Paul Seller's Masterclass.

 

I think the burnisher would be worth the modest cost.

 

I bought a card scraper set years ago and got mediocre results until I watched this video :

.
Ng's technique works and works well and easily. I was too heavy handed and made the mistake of holding the scraper at 30 to 40 degrees which as he said only yields dust. After following his instructions I have fallen in love with the card scraper. There's nothing magic about it, it just looks that way.

 

Ng is great.

 

great review

 

Ng is definitely THE MAN. I learned all I needed to learn from his video. Several points:
1. get and use a real burnisher
2. apply oil to the burnisher - that's a basic lesson from metalworking
3. the hook doesn't have to be huge
4. you can refresh the hook very quickly

 

built a holder this year, burnish mine when needed on the belt sander
easy and good enough for me
others use another method but quick and easy is my motto.

 

mantwi thanks for the great video. It certainly opened my eyes and corrected some thoughts I had concerning scrapers and sharpening them. It is amazing to me how quickly he sharpens and "re-burrs" his scrapers. Just two quick strokes with the burnisher and its ready to scrape again. You're right BigMig he IS THE MAN!

Maybe it is time for me to get a burnisher! 15$ won't put much of a hole in my wallet. Sounds like it is worth getting.

 

It won't tear out white oak like a hand plane will. So that is a positive.

Despite a sharp card scraper, I am amazed how long it takes to remove glue and flaws from a panel.
Often I just grab the ROS and get the job done.

They are a nice little tool to have on hand.

 

For me the card scraper is just the beginning, I really enjoy working with hand planes, scrapers, anything without a power cord. I tolerate my big machines because they are easier to use with a dust collector. I've worked with wood in one form or another since I was a kid and after a lifetime of making dust I have to say that I hate it. I hate to breath it, sweep it up and finish around it. Anything I can do to eliminate it from my shop I will try. As a result I've sworn off sanders and routers are next on the list. What a hateful device, screaming loud and messy as all get out. I want to learn about molding plans, plough planes, all kinds of specialty planes. I love the sound of a hand plane and the shavings make great tinder for the fire pit. Any leads on where to learn will be greatly appreciated.

 

mantwi, there's lots of plane information around here, but a good start is http://lumberjocks.com/topics/26023 it's huge, so read what you can and ask your questions. The guys that participate there also have links to a lot of other information, so check their blogs and such.

 

If you know a mechanic, or somebody at an engine shop, snag a valve from a well-used engine for a burnisher. They're hard, and the stem will have been polished from all that opening and closing.