Milled and rough sized my stock. Let it sit stickered for a few days and then ran a couple passes through the sticking cutter. And then back in the stack.

I’m working on these from home so no shapers only router tables so things are much slower and more difficult. I’ve done some doors on a pair of nice big heavy Scmi t-130s and there’s really no comparison.

I would strongly suggest anyone trying this to put 3 or more feet of infeed and outfeed support firmly affixed to the router table.
I will also note I did a terrible job setting the height on this cutter. That will create a lot more work and time wasting later. Did I mention there’s going to be plenty of mistakes here?
I like to run a piece of scrap and use that to check the setup on the coping cutter I put in a different table.
A special note for incra tables with their clean sweep inserts: be very careful about using a power feed. If you have a sharp square edge on your stock and a lot of down pressure it can catch an edge in the cut outs. DAMHIKT, didn’t happen this time but did once before. You can file/sand the rings or chamfer your stock just in case. Sometimes I just go to the solid insert.

 

Stone throwing, finger pointing, giggles, comments and questions are all welcome. Feel free and thanks for looking

 

I had a NASA Astro Physicist make some very detailed blueprints for me to make a screen door . . .
I followed the instructions to the letter.

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That's so awesome.

 

I love it John! Everything is so wrong it’s right

 

Hey Stevo - looks like great progress. Was your biggest challenge not having infeed & outfeed runs at your router table?
Looks great so far.
Thx for posting

 

Coping, here’s the table for that

completely unnecessary for square joints but our top rail meets the stiles at the 17 degree angle mentioned above.
This way saves having to use wider $tock and somewhat reduces the chance for blowout at the sharp long point end when cutting the stick profile.
The bit instructions recommend you set up the full cut coper and then switch to the extended tenon bit that’s hiding behind the clamp in the picture. Kind of a waste of time if you ask me but I play along. Because of my poor setup I had to reset the height for opposing sides. Lessons learned.
Here’s a pic of what I’m looking for on both sides. Unfortunately I tried to take some meat out with the bandsaw and ruined the back side so this one is currently in my reject pile

another le$$on lol. Oh well. After the tenons are done a final pass on the stile bit.

 

Yeah Bigmig, that tiny feeder doesn’t have the heft to hold these heavy pieces down tight on the table so it’s sketchy at best for each end without the extra support. No problem with smaller cabinet sized pieces

 

Those are some beefy screen doors! How will the screen install- it looks like they are milled for panels?
How will they hang? Typically screen doors go in a rabbet in the entry door jamb. Do you need to make a curved head stop as well?

 

Hang in there JW! I’m new at posting projects and trying to keep this in somewhat of a logical order. I’m still working on these but I can try and answer some of those.
Yes I have to build a quasi extension jamb and head stop which will fit to the existing pressure treated door buck and against the existing glass panel door jamb.
I thought about asking here if someone could 3D print the upper arch piece to make a typical screen frame with commercially available parts for the rest. In the end I decided to try it with wood and see how it works. Uncharted territory with no captain ahead lol
These will get mounted on self closing hinges. Still on the fence about operating hardware vs dummy knobs
I can only get 4/4 and 8/4 stock without making a special order. Considered slimming them down but I am not entirely confident in my capabilities to resaw 8/4 and then not having it bow or twist after the fact. If I can’t save a vaneer piece I would rather leave the wood on the door than send it through planer.
Lastly on the thickness is the lack of adjustability when using router bits. When setup for a 1-3/8 door they have a pretty thin tenon which I don’t care for. Here’s the slot cutter

 

I think making the top rails is pretty self explanatory but just in case

I start with a blank and use some reference marks on the jig to cut it to length at the right angle on both ends. Then I cut the top curve roughly on the bandsaw followed by a final router trimming. Next over to the coping router and cut the tenons. Back to the jig to mark cut and trim the inside curve. Apologies for the staged picture using test pieces but the finished ones are glued up.
All that’s left for those is the inside profile and a little trimming on the tenons

I just made this from the off cut of the first jig with a little adjustment to the curve. Not great but good enough for who it’s for

 

Ok let’s chop some mortises. Again pretty self explanatory. I stayed in from top and bottom of the door a little more than an inch if I remember correctly. Bottom rail is double tenon with a haunch in the middle. Mid rail basically stayed full width. I figured the depth (and tenon length) the easiest way I could think of

I measured the mortise bit lol
Note: If you don’t like sharpening or not inclined to set up for it this type of machine is probably not for you. Slot mortise machines, router, or the big domino are great and would probably make building doors easier and faster. For some strange reason I don’t mind the method I’m using. To each their own

 

Are these going in front of also a pair of doors, or a single (48"?) one?

 

Yeah It’s a double set going in front of a double set. This is pretty common here. You would think that these narrow doors would be an annoyance but it’s never really been an issue for us in normal use. The doors with the glass will stay open most of the time. House is open air and no air conditioning aside from a portable unit in a guest bedroom .

 

Here’s one out of the clamps post glue up

I’ve already rough cut the “ears” off the top with a jig saw. I will trim the bottom off with a track saw after flattening and a quick sanding with p80.

 

I clamped the jig back on the door to trim the top of the stiles

here’s the first set hiding in the back of the shop while I prep some stock for the screen frames

sorry for the mess, it’s pretty tight in here

 

Not done yet…..

 

Back at it this morning. Deleting the profile we worked so hard on.

I will clean up the corners and the residual epoxy mess left behind with some of my best chisels 😂

 

I’d be a liar if I didn’t say routing that out was the most nerve wracking part of this project so far

 

got some of the screen frames fitted with a little wiggle room. I mask off the door and use it as a fixture for glue up

 

I did route some of the screen Chanel before I glued them and cleaned up the rest after. Once the glue dried Ran some profile pieces from som of the off cuts. Glued and pin nailed those to the face. I hope they hold up

 

That’s looking fantastic!

Jack

 

That’s looking fantastic!

Jack

Thanks Jack! Wish I had more time to work on these but I’m also in the middle of getting the house painted and I’m trying to get the area where these will end up done
I did make a form and laminate a head stop. I hope it will fit the existing jamb

figured this was going to be messy which it was so I used a scaffold plank as a work surface outside on the porch

 

Apologies for the delay. Not crazy about how the finish came out but it was a little difficult with constant rain and wind. Life goes on.
There’s another set that’s just about ready to be fit to another opening so hopefully that comes out a little better. I tried to do a better job with board selection so we’ll see how it goes

as you might notice things are a bit rough around the edges here so absolute perfection is not necessary and would probably look a bit out of place lol.

 

Magnificent!