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LJ's Measurement & Layout Tool Swap 2013

34K views 615 replies 43 participants last post by  terryR  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Updated 2/10/2013 5:06 PM CST
Welcome to the 2013 LJ's Measurement & Layout Tool Swap

Email me at lj-swap@gmx.com

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This one is a little different guys!

Joining the Swap: Deadline for entry is November 25th If you want to participate in this swap contact me at the email above, letting me know your LJ user name, Name, address and which of the four categories below you will be building from, and which category you would like to receive.

Keep this project under $75

Photo/Item Submission Deadline February 10th 2014
Send me a picture via email of your completed item along with your LJ user name/handle. If you complete your project early please submit it. The earlier you submit your item the better chances you have of being matched to your preferred category.

Shipping Deadline February 20th

If you are outside the US, please note that in your Email to me, and tell me were your located.

Do not post pictures of your completed item until the recipient receives the item.

CATEGORY A (7 Entries)
Try Squares
Bevel Gauge (Sliding or Pivot)
Framing Square
Sliding Combination Square

CATEGORY B (2 Entries)
Levels
Straight Ruler
Folding Rulers

CATEGORY C (6 Entries)
Dividers
Calipers
Protractor
Compass
Beam Compass
Curve Drawing Bow

CATEGORY D (2 Entries)
Saddle/Miter Square (Set)
Self Centering Doweling Jig
Dovetail Guide (Set)

BONUS CATEGORY This is not your main submission, This is not A requirement think of it as a lottery. You do not have to inform me of the bonus item that your including, keep this a secret if you are doing this.
Plumb Bob
French Curve
Center Finders
Setup Blocks
Depth Gauge
Awls
Marking Knives
Punches
Marking Gauge
Winding Sticks
Kerf Marker
Pens and Pencils

Good luck everyone on the Bonus Items and have fun!

Parts and supply resources
Category A
Combination square head screws

General parts Resources
Steel Adhesive tape measure 12-inch
 

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#105 ·
I updated the Thread header with some info that might help you decide your build Category if you haven't entered yet.

Category A ( 7 Entries)
Category B ( 2 Entries)
Category C ( 6 Entries)
Category D ( 2 Entries)
 
#108 ·
I'm just waiting on parts to arrive then it'll take me a day or two (hopefully no more) to finish. I had been planning this project anyway, had already selected stock and made drawings, and it just happened to coincide with the swap, so it has progressed quickly.
 
#109 ·
I've been looking forward to this swap, but I'm still really busy at work so I've been hesitant to join. Plus a lot of you guys are finished or about to finish, what's up with that. I guess as long as I have till February 10th why not. I'm off to send an email.
Jim
 
#112 ·
Jim, please sign up! That would increase the chances of ME getting one of your tools! :)

Ah, just ignore these early birds…they have to sit and look at their completed tool for months…constantly wanting to make improvements and add bling! LOL
 
#115 ·
Anonymous Question

I have a 2Ă—2x3' piece of rift sawn hardwood that appears to be quartersawn at one end (one end has grain diagonal to both faces and the other is straight across). I am thinking of trying a string inlay (never tried this before) and then taking several slices of the resulting piece so I have multiple thin inlayed pieces.
1) Is it possible to be rift sawn on one end and quarter sawn at the other?
2)Would the resulting 1/8-1/4" pieces be stable? For a straight edge, say?
3)Without knowing where it will end up(climate/humidity wise, if swapped) would this not be a good idea?
Thanks for all of your input!
 
#118 ·
Yes you are in Jim i got your email I will update my list tonight.

Anonymous response
Plywood is all flat layers. I'm thinking curved inlay like seen here http://lumberjocks.com/projects/91345 just not this elaborate.
 
#119 ·
The question as I understand it is whether the main piece of wood will be stable enough as a straightedge even though there is a twist in the grain. The inlay stuff seems like extraneous information.

I don't have a definitive answer except to say I would err on the side of caution and use the absolute straightest quartersawn piece of wood you can find because a straightedge that doesn't stay straight is just pretty firewood.
 
#120 ·
Anonymous question

I'm working on a 'proof of concept' prototype, and I'm not sure what the best way to cut a 1/8" thick channel that the metal part of this tiny try square goes into. (included image for reference: ) My smallest chisel is currently 1/4", so I can't chip it away like a mortise. My attempts at using a Veritas router plane with a fence aren't going very well, as there's not enough surface to register against to make sure I'm cutting flat. I built a jig with a square block and clamped them together, but I can't get them to stick together in the vise.

I'm worried about using a saw, as I'm not good enough to cut right to the line with no errors and I don't have any way to cut a bit off the line and clean it up later (back to the 'my chisels are too fat' issue). Should I just go get a smaller chisel to match the metal stock I have, or is there some obvious answer I'm missing?

I've also considered making the square from three pieces and gluing them together, so that the middle piece would just have to match the thickness of the metal. If I don't come up with a good way to accurately cut this channel, I'll try that next. This is a fun project so far. Lots of skill building and experimentation.
 
#121 ·
If you are worried about not getting a straight cut you could use the same method as when making a saw handle.

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I would shim it so that it cuts half the line and then remove the shim and cut the other half and then you should be able to clean and fine tune the cut with a flat needle file. My small flat file is 1/8" thick so it should be perfect.

I would practice this with some scrap first just to fine tune the method.
 

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#123 ·
I do not know what tools you have to work with but a table saw blade is usually 1/8" or less with a thin kerf blade. A band saw will work by making numerous passes. If you cut it close by hand you could then take a piece ot the blade stock and sharpen a nice square edge with crisp corners then hammer it in the kerf and let the edges cut to width. You could take a piece of the blade stock and put a chisel edge on it (make your own chisel). The last suggestion is file teeth on the edge of the blade stock to make a float and file the slot to depth. That's all I got at the moment.
Jim
 
#125 ·
Yes I will be matching people up here soon I have a crazy busy week coming up at work + thanksgiving. So i t might be this coming weekend