You could build a rack like that from hardwood (not pine, too flexible), but if you were going to use pipe tees at the joints it wouldn't work out well. The pitch on those threads is fine compared to what wood is typically threaded with. And the tee would only support about 3/4" of the end of the dowel. And, you probably want 1-1/4" diameter dowels for strength/rigidity, which is much thicker than the pipe used here.

Tl;dr: the look of this rack is achieved by using steel pipe, which is quite stiff despite its narrow diameter, and which can hold strong threaded joints. To accomplish similar in wood, the design will need to be adjusted to account for different material properties.

 

try looking through all the Blanket & Quilt Racks online.
you might find something you like that is within your skill sets.
depending on what part of the world you live in, large red oak dowels (hand rails)
can be found at your Box Stores that would work well for a clothes rack.

.

 

Personally I would just make it out of wood and metal pipe. Make the frame of wood, which IMO would look better than the all pipe one, drill a hole big enough to fit the pipe, then the metal pipe will hold the hangers without the droop of a wooden dowel. Then you have the best of both worlds. Alternatively the 3M backed veneer woods will stick to clean black pipe, but then you have the issue of hangers scratching up the wood.

 

That's a pretty good span-are you planning to use closet rod as the dowel? My guess is that the stand would be unstable. Seems like it would wobble and have a tendency to tip over especially if the top bar was filled with clothing. I know they make jigs that allow you to thread wood-not sure what size range of stock the jigs take. I would make corner joints from wood and glue it all together. Maybe use mortise and tenon or loose tenon joints. You should build a prototype to test the design.

 

The handle on my leg vise chop is white oak with iron pipe (galvanized? I don't know, they're old fittings) couplings on either end. The oak started as square stock; I used a block plane to get them down to just the right size to accept threads.

They work great, and I love the mix of wood and metal.

Hardwood stock is a must for what you're considering. I'd say it can be done, and really needs to be tried! (let us know how it works out, okay?)

 

Internal threads, in cross-grain holes in wood can be fairly strong. But external pipe threads on the ends of closet rods have very little strength. Such threads would need to be MUCH coarser (fewer threads/inch).

I hope that example pictured had a clear finish coat applied on the iron pipes; otherwise, clothes that brush up against it will be stained.

 

Thanks for all the advice regarding joinery, type of wood, and alternate suggestions! Especially type of wood to use/avoid, I wouldn't have known where to start with that.

The handle on my leg vise chop is white oak with iron pipe (galvanized? I don t know, they re old fittings) couplings on either end. The oak started as square stock; I used a block plane to get them down to just the right size to accept threads.

They work great, and I love the mix of wood and metal.

Hardwood stock is a must for what you re considering. I d say it can be done, and really needs to be tried! (let us know how it works out, okay?)



- Smitty_Cabinetshop

Cool to know that it's possible! Although for the length I'm going for, I'm realizing that I'd probably have to tweak some things. Unfortunately, this project probably won't be a reality for a couple of years, as I'm not in a position where making this would be practical. I've just grown very interested in woodworking during quarantine.

Internal threads, in cross-grain holes in wood can be fairly strong. But external pipe threads on the ends of closet rods have very little strength. Such threads would need to be MUCH coarser (fewer threads/inch).

I hope that example pictured had a clear finish coat applied on the iron pipes; otherwise, clothes that brush up against it will be stained.

- AndyJ1s

Ah, the iron pipe staining hadn't occurred to me.

I asked about this because I prefer it when bulky items can be taken apart, and glue would be efficient but permanent. I've gotten a bunch of ideas now regarding the joinery, and how I could mash up some different methods. They might be too convoluted to be practical but I'll just think them over and have fun with it.