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How to make friction polish

21K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  wormil  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
What does everyone use to make their own friction polish. What are the formulas and how to mix it heat or no heat?
 
#2 ·
I've used untreated pine sawdust from my miter saw with a little paste wax and mineral oil = very cheap and works reasonably well on the lathe. Haven't tried it using any other methods, but packing it in a rag and holding it tight against whatever I'm turning.
 
#3 ·
I use 'O.B.'s Shine Juice' ... got the recipe from Eddie Castelin ( http://eddiecastelin.com/sharing_information ).

In a nutshell, you mix equal parts of BLO, de-waxed clear shellac, and denatured alcohol. Apply with a paper towel while the lathe is running slow, then increase the speed. When the paper towel gets too hot to hold onto, you should have a nice shine on your piece.
 
#8 ·
Now that I look at it, I was wrong … you don't need de-waxed shellac. Eddie specifies 'Zinsser's Bulls Eye Shellac, Clear' (per my link) and that is what I use.
 
#11 ·
I use Shellawax cream and the finish is what I'd consider a low-gloss. Not the shiniest, but not bad considering not much work went into it. I've been looking for alternatives though, because it's not the cheapest stuff.

Does anyone know how OB's shine juice compares to Shellawax?
 
#12 ·
It is not a 'dipped in glass' kind of shine … to get that, you'd need something like a CA finish.

It produces a decent shine, but not a real high gloss … I use it on my Freedom Pens (check them out in my projects).

It is fast … finishing only takes a couple of minutes.
 
#14 ·
Coach-It sounds complicated but is really pretty easy.

Sand through the grits to 800, then wipe the piece down with CA accelerator on a paper towel.

Apply 3 coats (one quick swipe) of thin CA with a piece of a paper towel, then sand with 800 grit and clean the surface with CA accelerator. Apply three more coats of thin CA, sand with 800 grit again, clean the surface with CA accelerator, and apply the last three coats of thin CA.

Three things: You can't rub the CA in … put a drop on the paper towel, and give the piece one quick swipe with the lathe running slow. Toss the paper towel after each application … don't try to re-use it (I tear full-sized paper towels into 8 pieces … they don't need to be very big). Don't spray the accelerator directly on the piece … spray a little on a piece of paper towel and use it to wipe the piece.

Make sure you have decent ventilation … you don't want to breath the fumes the CA throws off.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
Before you get all excited about a CA finish for your pens check out this finishing thread.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/

I did not use the same procedure as Gerry, but never had a problem with a CA finish. Some folk claimed to have the best method for applying a CA finish. I cannot dispute their claims because it works for them and they are happy. Where I and most other folks part company on a CA finish is high gloss or shiny does not always mean durability.

JMHO, only advantages to a CA finish is ease and speed achieving a high gloss finish. Have no idea why so many people have problems achieving a nice finish with CA.
 
#16 ·
I have a little bottle of BLO & Johnson's Paste wax that gives a nice low luster finish. I put them in the same container and set it on my coffee warmer, after a while the wax melts and I give it a stir.

I've been planning to make some 3 Way: shellac + oil + wax. I'd like to try the OB Shine Juice but without wax to bind it the shellac and oil separate, or appear to in Captain Eddies videos.
 
#17 ·
Rick M-Yes, the shellac and DNA do separate from the BLO … I just shake the bottle then apply.

Try it … you'll like it!
 
#21 ·
I'm getting a satin or semi-gloss shine, but I've only gone to 3 coats and only waiting a minute or so between. I apply it on a paper towel with the lathe running about 2000 rpm. The heat brings the oil to the surface and keeps the rag from sticking. I hold it until my fingers burn.