I use a piece of 3/4×3 oak, flat, with a piece of 1/4" ply stapled on the bottom but tucked back in about 3/8. This is a place for chips to go when you're doing multiple operations. The fence is attached by C clamps as needed.

I keep a piece of MDF, larger than the iron table, screwed semipermanently to the table so I can easily clamp to it, rather than fussing with the webbing of the table.

No brag, just fact: I have seven drill presses, 5 dedicated, two not, the latter of which get the above treatment. I don't think this makes me any kind of expert on DPs, just a hoarder.

Kindly,

Lee

 

I like a high fence but when drilling- using short "stroke"- the handles that operate the quill can hit the fence.

 

Mine is both. L-shaped with one High side and one Low side, and I flip it as needed.

 

No high fence here. It's not necessary for a drill press.
1 1/2" tall fence is ideal IMHO. I use two 3/4" pieces of baltic birch laminated together with the top piece set back far enough for a t-track to be set in for stops.

 

I have one that is about 2 1/2" high with a T track and homemade stops. I also at the same time built a table that is about 12×15" that the fence is T tracked to. Normally it stays as far back as possible(next to the column).It has been that way for 10 years or so and seldom has it been in the way for any drilling tasks.
Which is not to say it would work for everybody-but it has worked for me.
Hope this might help.
tom

 

O.K. so I went for a medium fence. T-tracks in an H shape, so 4 laminates fit around the T-tracks and are glued to the subtop. This sits on a drawer unit that also acts as a dust trap at the rear section of the drawer used when sanding. A few rings fit in the removable centre to match some drum sanders. A featherboard can be fitted in the middle of the T-tracks. End stops can be fitted, 2 are shown. The crank has a clear swing, unimpeded by the table. A 5 drawer chest sits under the table, holding shaepening and grinding equipment and Tormek jigs.