Anymore if you want paint in a specific color all you need to do is bring a color chip of what you want. Since the paint mixers are computerized they do the hard work, and unless you are measuring the paint color through some kind of microscope you would believe it's an exact match.

My advice is start using a very good quality of paint, allow that to fully dry according to manufacturers instruction.

To protect will depend on what it's use will be. Usually common sense here. If it just sits, often just the good paint is all that is needed. If it is occasionally touched, handled than a simple coat of paste wax may suffice. If it is to be touched and handled a lot, then something stronger, harder like Poly may be your best option. Add to the list if it is to be exposed to sun, water, anything that would be detrimental to the MDF you need to include that into your thinking of a protective coat, but for ease of application, and without having to use special equipment Poly is a pretty good protection.

 

Thanks Steven, these are a set of audio floor standing speakers for the home.

I should have stated, I am looking for a clear sort of translucent glossy look, is paint all that I need for that??

I am still reading about this and I see things like red clear laquer, Where / how do I get that ?? I have worked and with am comfortable with laquer. Should I even be thinking "interior paint"?

I am looking at guitar makers, maybe I should be thinking primer, then tinted laquer.

 

I built speakers for years. The only sure fire finish was:
Resin glue for the joints. All others will shrink over the years and the glue line show through.
Fiberglass resin, inside and out. Two coats. Old school high build lacquer primer. That gives a base that is stable and will allow any top coat you want. I used everything from Dupont Centari to rattle cans.

 

I use the BIN shellac based on MDF, 2 coats, sand with 320 between.

Then you can top coat with anything you want. If you're doing a lacquer top coat, the paint can be anything.

If you want really gloss, then go with gloss paint and rub it out with automotive products.

Charles Neil has a good video on rubbing out a finish.

 

Thanks for the help, I am getting closer. What I am missing is what kind of basecoat. It looks like automotive paint is a possibility. I am also seeing tinted lacquers. I have to figure the combo out and that helps, thanks again.

 

Yes. Think automotive paint. Start with several coats of high build sandable primer to get a smooth base. Then any automotive paint you like; lacquer, water based, or other. Tvrgeek makes a good point about the glue.

 

There are a few different types of resin glue, aliphatic, phenolic and urea, any particular one ??

Thanks for the replies.

 

+1 Seal MDF with primer. Zin Bin shellac primer works, and it good choice under spray lacquer.

+1 Polyester resin.
Many pro speaker builders will skip primer on MDF and use polyester resin used on fiberglass vehicle panels to stabilize and seal MDF. Then they use automotive painting methods for perfect paint job. PVA glue creep is common issue on MDF painted panels. Either use resin glue (urea is common), or cover the glue joints with 3-4oz fiberglass fabric and 2 coats of resin, then blend the edges with Bondo, sand/fill to get flat-ish surface.

Suggest two different paths as 'most likely to succeed':

1) Plain old 'instrument' or 'furniture' lacquer:
Easier to complete in home shop. Not most durable finish, and intolerant of cold glassware stored top. Can troll the guitar making forums for tons of different finishing schedules.
Seal MDF with shellac or WB primer, and sand perfectly smooth. Seal with rattle can automotive lacquer primer for even base color. Choice of sealer color depends on desired effect. Can use silver, with tinted clear coat to create candy effect. Can use white for bright red tinted lacquer. Latest trend is to use black sealer coat, followed by clear lacquer with colored pearl additive. Follow with 2 coats of clear on top. Hard part about lacquer is thickness limits. Thick lacquer does not move with wood, and can crack/craze. Using MDF helps, and allows a little more film build; but still requires spraying practice/experience, where you measure wet film build as you develop the finishing schedule to stay below maximum limits. The lacquer suppliers provide data sheets and application guides to help you figure it out.

2) Automotive finish: primer, base coat, clear coat.
Not to hard to accomplish at home. Though some states (Kalifornia+) have banned automotive paints in residential areas.
IMHO - Best protection is developed with 2-part urethane primer/sealer, and 2 part urethane clear. But even the worst auto enamel/urethane paint will be much more durable than regular nitro lacquer, and more tolerant of beginner spray mistakes. Automotive finish options are numerous, and local supply can dictate what folks think is 'best'.
Suggest looking into Omni or Nason urethane for base color coat. Can use enamel for color coat, but need to use enamel hardener making the color coat a 2K layer. The cost difference for easier to handle 1k urethane is higher, but overall costs are lower after adding in the enamel hardener. U-Pol makes an inexpensive 2K urethane primer/sealer that covers just about any base material and works under those base coats. They also sell a decent clear coat that uses the same catalyst, which can reduce cost on small jobs. If speakers were to be stored outside, U-Pol would be called a cheap 5 year paint job. But indoors it will last lifetime. Automotive paint is not cheap; figure ~$45 qt kit of primer/sealer, $50 qt of base coat, $100 for 'gallon' kit of clear (no one sells quarts of clear). By time you buy reducer and/or retarder with right temperature for the job, looking at $250-$275 out the door where I shop. The same set of materials would paint entire front end on a small vehicle, and should be enough for 2 tower speakers (even if you goof a little).

Best Luck.

 

Thanks Captain

 

There are a few different types of resin glue, aliphatic, phenolic and urea, any particular one ??

Thanks for the replies.

- OldBull

I use the DAP-Powdered-ureaformaldehyde-wood-glue Actually, I have been using it for a lot of things.

Some epoxy works too. The point is it does not shrink or creep. Resin is water carried, so it can cause a tiny swell (less than PVA) so let it cure and dry before finishing.