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Grizzly G0833P Tablesaw

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#225 · (Edited by Moderator)
I doubt anyone has tried this saw on both the 240v and 110v, but there shouldn't be any discernable difference in power or longevity to the motor, right?

My knowledge of electricity and differences in voltage is pretty basic, but it's my understanding that the motor has basically two legs to run on with a 240, and one leg for the 110. But what that actually means in the tangible sense, I'm not really sure.
 
#226 ·
There is no difference between running on 120V and 240V. Full stop. The motor has two sets of windings. The total power output is the same in either case.
 
#227 ·
When I purchased the shop fox mobile base with my 0833 saw, the Grizzly mobile base was out of stock. I had previously purchased the shop fox mobile bases for other tools, which I was familiar with the quality and was happy with the shop fox mobile base for my new table saw. Hopes this helps you, Muhahmed. Also, there is no difference with the voltage on wear and tear on motor as far as hookups. I do know that the saw would probably bog down more in 110 mode. As Tim Allen would say, "More Power" is always better than less power!
 
#229 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thank you for both for your feedback. I figured that would be the case with the difference in voltage. I'd love to run it on 220, but my panel is fully utilized and I definitely don't feel like spending another 2K or so to get another panel. Getting electrical work is usually expensive, but everything in California is multiplied. the only thing running 220v in my shop is my Clearvue DC.

I can't wait to by the saw, but for now the comments and pictures will have to satiate me until I can gather enough change.
 
#230 · (Edited by Moderator)
There is no difference between running on 120V and 240V. Full stop. The motor has two sets of windings. The total power output is the same in either case.

- jonah
Click to expand...
That's my theoretical understanding too…the motor windings are either running in parallel or in series, so they see the same voltage regardless of whether supplied by 120v or 240v….that's the theory. However that theoretical scenario overlooks real world voltage losses of the supply lines that can cause sluggish startup, slow recovery from load, and excess heat in the windings.

It's not uncommon to find a 120v circuit that's not quite capable of delivering full amperage under heavy load without some voltage drop, especially in older homes, which can be due to other appliances being on the circuit, old wire, small wire, too many junctions, long runs, poor connections, etc. A 240v supply is less likely to suffer from those symptoms because the current draw is shared across two legs, so depending on the particular motor and the particular circuit in question, many will find that running the same saw on 240v supply line will help the saw run as it should, which can result in faster startups, faster recovery from load, and less heat….even though it's not really more powerful on 240v, it can give the illusion of it.

It can also be argued that a suitable 120v circuit will behave the same way….and that's true, but if new supply lines are going to be run, not only is 240v cheaper to install because the smaller gauge wire can be used, only a 240v line benefits from having current supplied from both hot legs of the household supply, which tends to prevent that line from ever being near it's 100% capacity, which makes it less likely to suffer from voltage drop in the motor.

I know this debate can be, and has been argued ad nauseam, but I did want to point out the significant difference between what the motor windings see, and what the supply lines can actually deliver.
 
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#231 ·
I would like to know how everybody feels about the saw's power? I'm currently stuck between the G0833P and the G1023RL, which has a 3HP motor and much beefier internals which contribute to about 90 more pounds of heft. Has anybody put any 8/4 to 12/4 thick hardwoods through their saw? How did it perform?

I am a hobbyist woodworker and my garage serves as both woodshop and car maintenance area. I feel that this saw's lighter weight (vs the G1023RL) will make it more manageable to move around when the car needs to come inside. I am upgrading from a 1985 model year 1hp Craftsman "113" contractor saw.

Thanks for all the great info you guys have already posted.
 
#232 ·
The difference in mobility will be negligible, so I wouldn't let that be a deciding factor at all.

I upgraded from a very capable 1.75hp hybrid saw to a 3hp Shop Fox (the equivalent of a G1023SL). Even though the hybrid saw could cut everything I needed, and I really liked the saw, the difference in power and use is very noticeable. The smaller motor is much easier to bog, so you need to adjust the feed rate to a pace the saw can handle. The smaller motor is also much more sensitive to blade selection and alignment….it did notably better with a good 3/32" thin kerf blade. The 3hp motor doesn't seem to care what blade I use, or what pace I feed. If your budget can handle the upgrade, the G1023RL is in a different league, and is a great bang for the buck. I doubt you'd ever regret doing the upgrade, but you might regret not.
 
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#233 ·
I've lived in three 80+ year old houses, and I've never had an electrical panel not capable of delivering a full 15A (or 20A, depending on the circuit) at 120V, under load. I'm not saying such a thing can't exist, but they're far from common.
 
#234 · (Edited by Moderator)
re: mobile base:
the reason I'd have preferred the Grizzly mobile base is the kick-down locks vs the screw-down of the Shop Fox mobile base.

re: G0833P vs G1023RL:
There's a ~$400 base price increase for the bigger saw. For me that was a bridge too far. I started my table saw journey with a Ridgid at $700 and the G0833P was already double that (with delivery, etc.). I also wasn't sure I was going to get 240V in the shop, so buying the G0833P hedged my bets.

re: voltage:
Having the G0833P on 240v vs 120v, to my understanding, is the amps issue with the saw set to 120v it's maxing out the amps. 16 amps on 120V for running means a 20a circuit and at startup or bogging you could pop that. One of my 20amp circuits was occasionally popping when my chop saw and shop fan were both running.

The other reason I like the 240v is that is ensures I only have the saw on that circuit. This could be accomplished with a dedicated 120v but by the time you do that work you might as well do 240v.
 
#235 ·
Thanks for your reply knotscott. You say your old hybrid could cut everything you needed, but how do you define that?

I'm about to admit my impatience, but my trouble at the moment is the G1023s are out of stock until May and my acquisitons window with my pregnant wife is currently open.

There are a few other factors also…

I see the G0833 has an extra fence adjustment compared to the G1023. Can you owners comment on the fence versus a shop fox fence?

The G0833 also appears to have perhaps a slightly better dust collection path (and a larger intermediate hose) in the blade shroud area. Somebody tell me how their dust collection performs.

Now for my dumbest comment: I like the white cabinet versus the green.
 
#236 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks for your reply knotscott. You say your old hybrid could cut everything you needed, but how do you define that?

...
- LobaLoba
Click to expand...
With good blade choice, good setup, and flat straight wood, the 1.75hp would rip through 12/4" hardwood at a fairly reasonable pace. It would however labor more while doing it. The 3hp motor just chews through the same material much more easily. It's important to get what you want, for whatever reason you want it, but had I not experienced a 3hp cabinet saw vs the 1.75hp hybrid, I don't think I would have realized just how much of a difference there was. 3hp is not mandatory, but it sure is nice to have.

I also want to emphasize just how much beefier a 3hp cabinet saw is compared to most 1.75hp hybrids. Again, that doesn't mean a good hybrid is under built, but there's a notable difference in the feel during use that goes beyond just motor power …everything from the hand wheels to the overall mass of the saw is more robust. I think an analogy of an S10 to a Silvarado 3500 is fair a comparison.

If you view your saw as nothing more than a tool to cut wood at a typical hobby level, a hybrid is up for the job. If you're the kind of guy who enjoys owning, using, upgrading, and taking care of the tool as an important extension of a hobby, or you tend push the tool hard on a regular basis, then I'd put more emphasis on the heavier duty saw.
 
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#237 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sounds like the Grizzly base is more convenient with the foot pedals, so i'll probably be doing that as well. I will be running 120 to it though, and I've wired it using 12/3 with a 20amp breaker so it should be solid enough. i guess i'll find out once I try it out under load.

one more thing is to figure out if it would be worth it (for health concerns) if it would be beneficial enough to re-do the plumbing on the saw for 6" dust collection. my shop is all 6". see the pic.

Image
 

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#238 ·
4" at the rear of the saw and 4" (12.5 sq inches each) above the blade is almost exactly the same area as a 6" pipe (28 sq inches)...

I'd totally rework it that way if I had a 6" trunk coming near the saw.
 
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MikeinMD
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