I've used the gorilla epoxy and personally don't care for it.

 

Not Gorilla specific, but I use those syringe epoxies all the time.. Make sure you get the clear stuff, which doesn't have any fillers like the others. You can tint with just about anything you can think of… dyes, paints, crushed up chalk, powdered cement coloring, metal shavings, crushed rock, and a whole lot more. You would probably be best off getting one of the longer setting mixtures like 30 minutes… those 5 minute things just seem to kick over way too soon to be used for anything but an adhesive.

Cheers,
Brad

 

How thick is the wall of the bowl Mark?

 

Thank you for your time gents.
John it's about 1/8….3/16".

 

That's very thin Mark! I haven't tried a patch like that.

I do use epoxy & super glue, they work fine for me. I like your idea of the black dye in it, I won't have a clear crack filler again, black looks better to me, more natural.

The next time I have to do this I'll try black chalk line powder mixed in epoxy. I also like finishing with wipe on poly over the epoxy or glue. Makes it a seamless finish around the joint.

You've got a tough one there, good luck with it and HAPPY NEW YEAR!

 

Epoxy is the best choice, but I'd stay away from the quick stuff. A good quality product from System Three or West System would be my choice You can tint that black with pigment. I use the System Three pigment, but something like Mixol will work too.

As long as the wood is still moving I think you are going to have problems with any fill however. Epoxy won't stop the movement. Some sort of mechanical stabilizer like a bow tie would be more effective.

Understand that what I'm saying is pure speculation since I have no information about how the wood is moving, or will continue to move, beyond what you've provided.

 

I use wood dust and CA for cracks. The only thing wood putty is good for, IMHO, is as a cover up. Not good for filling, at all.

 

It's a shame that it cracked like that. As it was said earlier, it's pretty thin and epoxy might not do what you want it to do.

I've seen pictures of projects "stitched" together with wire. Copper might look pretty cool against the cherry. Easy to find at the hardware store electrical department. Might be worth a shot if the bowl isn't going to be used for food.

Good luck!

 

I've seen pictures of projects "stitched" together with wire. Copper might look pretty cool against the cherry. Easy to find at the hardware store electrical department. Might be worth a shot if the bowl isn't going to be used for food.
- PBWilson1970

That would be a really neat and unique repair. Looking at the picture again, I'm thinking that epoxy or similar might be a problem, as there doesn't look like there is enough left to turn down any further… with the epoxy, you would need to fill the crack and then turn it down flush when cured. That is a mighty thin section to be doing that, along with the fact that the thing is probably not perfectly round any longer.

I almost always fill them, but I do it when there is still enough meat left. Generally, with slabs (ie: end grain cookies), the inclusion of the pith almost always ensures a crack that needs repair. Here is one such finished example that had several cracks filled with epoxy and a epoxy inlay along the top to compliment it.

Cheers,
Brad

 

Often doing nothing is the best option.

 

I have done almost exactly as you said, with brass shavings and 2 part epoxy
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/417505
I used blue painters tape to create a "seal" on one side, then worked the paste into the other. I then used paring chisels then sandpaper to get it to match the surface contour

 

That is pretty much inevitable if you leave the center in green wood. I use a brass powder mixed with a 30 minute epoxy sometimes to fill cracks like that. You need a longer set time so you have time to thoroughly mix in the brass and get it into the void. I add enough of the powder so that the epoxy becomes like a putty. Once it is set, turn it smooth and sand up to at least 1000 grit and apply a high gloss finish and it will polish almost like solid brass.

The other thing I do is add a mica dye to a 5 minute epoxy. I use foil HVAC tape to cover one side of the crack and pour the dyed epoxy into the crack from the other side. The foil tape sticks and seals better than clear or masking tape and handles the heat that the epoxy can generate as it sets better too. Use the shorter set time so that it is easier to keep in the crack instead of running out before it sets. Turn and sand to at least 800 grit before applying a finish.

EDIT: BTW, the rim of that bowl is super thin-probably the thinnest I've ever successfully turned.