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Dust Collection Improvement for a Delta 36-725

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delta 36-725 dust collection tablesaw
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72K views 42 replies 18 participants last post by  Wood_Scraps  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
The Delta 36-725 is a good saw, and (knock on wood) I haven't had any of the alignment issues many have spoken of. However it has some shortcomings with respects to dust collection. It is equipped with a blade shroud and 2.5" dust port which for the most part does a good job, but a lot of dust gets past the shroud and drops out the bottom.

So I went to work fabricating a bottom for the machine with a 4" dust port. This is what I came up with:

I used a magnetic duct cover to cover the space left by the removal of the 2.5" dust port.
I added a 4" dust port to the frame below.
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Here I fabricated the bottom and incorporated a 4" port from Harbor Freight.
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Here is a shot of the pluming under the dust collection pan.
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After running some scrap wood through the saw there was virtually no dust on the floor.
It ain't a pretty solution but it got the job done.
 

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#2 ·
I am very much a "function over form" guy, so who cares what it looks like as long as it works well? Good job…I just wish the tool makers would wake up and put some better DC porting on the tools.
 
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#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm liking your solution and gives me some ideas. I started on building a cabinet for mine (Delta 36-725) and called it quits during moving out of the house I sold. Once I get some free time here I want to get this saw on the cabinet and haven't thought of how the 4" dust collection conversion and close up the opening for the 2 1/2". This seems like a simple solution, but I may do some shop engineering with some 4" PVC pipe and save a little cash.
 
#10 ·
WhyMe, after some use, I'll probably modify mine to be more funnel shaped, dust does tend to settle on the flat pan around the duct.
Now I see how you support the router table, I didn't spot the diagonal legs before.
What I did was move the left stamped metal table to the other side.
Using an image of your saw, this is what I did.
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An advantage to your solution is you can handle wider stock.
 

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#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
Believe it or not those diagonal legs are made of black ABS pipe. I was going to do the same as you and move the left wing to the right but I always cut long stock hanging to the left side of the blade, so I kept the left side longer by not moving the wing. I used ABS screw couplings on the ends to adjust the length of the legs to level the router table to the TS table.
 
#13 ·
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Excellent, I have had my Saw since January. I have added my router to the right side. I have been having issues with the dust as it grinds into a powder and then when my vacuum pulls it in from the designed port I still have dust all over the place. I really like your ideas, I have been thinking of creating a saw dust box at the bottom with a vacuum port added to pull the dust. I was worried though that not having the factory designed shroud around the blade it may cause other issues, but after seeing yours I cannot see a problem now!
 

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#14 ·
Nice mods on dust collection. I haven't decided how happy (or not) I am with the dust shroud. Only thing I can compare it to is my old open backed Craftsman 113 contractor saw that had one of those 4" hose plates on the bottom. I never enclosed the back around the belt, motor, etc.. Compared to it, it seems pretty good. I might give this a try using that old adapter to see how it does.
 
#15 ·
Those magnetic vent covers worked really well covering the big holes left by the 2 1/2" dust port at the back and the slot for the blade tilt in the front.
I still may redo the pan to a more funnel shaped affair.

My next project is an old Grizzly band saw I picked up for $100 bucks. No dust collection on it at all.
Hmmm what shall I do…
 
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#20 ·
This is an older thread and I'm new here so not sure how active such a thread might be responded to, but here goes…

If I take the dust shroud/port off my 36-725, I assume I need to cover the motor so dust doesn't go inside it (not that the dust shroud was full prove). My question is, do I need to worry about covering up the vents to close and the motor will overheat, or is it more important I focus on blocking the dust (or both)?
 
#21 ·
The dust shroud doesn't actually cover the motor, just the bottom half of the blade.
I had some magnetic sheets laying around and I used those to cover the old dust port and the front where the tilt is.
I didn't seal the bottom of the table to the sides, I didn't think it was necessary.
Overall it works fairly well.
 
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#24 ·
WhyMe, you fabricated something to guard the motor in the same way the dust shroud originally guarded it (obviously you know this, because it's you saw and picture). Your post is the reason I asked my original question because it would appear that some sort of blocking of the motor is a good idea if you're going to pull off the original dust shroud. I copied you a bit, except I used the dust shroud to fabricat something. I removed the port, then cut the dust shroud down the middle. So, if you look straight down from the front of the saw, I removed everything to the right of the blade.

I really like how your 4" dust port and body for the dust port kinda hug the motor. How did you attach it to the table?
 
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