LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

CNC Routed Salt Box

Tags
video
49K views 82 replies 40 participants last post by  mafe  
#1 ·
Creating the Top

I will try to describe how I created the design for the Salt Box, and how I told my homemade CNC to cut it out. Here is a picture of the box, and the top. Let's start with the top.

Image


Remember this is just a router. Almost all the things that the CNC can do may be done by hand routing, maybe with a template or a fancy router table. But for this project, I picked a couple of things that would be quite difficult without the machine control.

Background: In my mind, there are four types of routing that you can have the machine do.

Profile: Cutting on a line. You have it cut on a line, outside of the line, or inside of the line. Different bits can be used to get different effects. These would include a straight bit, a V-bit, and a rounded core box bit. You can also tell the machine how deep to go and whether to go flat horizontal or gradually change the height as it routes.

Pocket: Cutting out a pocket (or mortise). Typically here you select a closed drawing and tell the machine how deep to route it out. The two main bits here are the straight bit and the bowl cutting bit with its slightly curved sides. Typically the bit is plunged to a certain depth in the center of the pocket, and then moved about to complete that depth. Lower the depth and repeat.

Raster: Cutting out a "3D" design. Typically here the router is started at the upper left hand corner and then move straight to the right using a very small bit. The bit depth is constantly changed as it moves. This is repeated hundreds if not thousands of times until the design appears. It takes a long time, and you need a really nice machine to pull off a nice result.

V-Carve: Cutting with a V-bit while gracefully changing the height. This produces basically the same thing as Chip Carving by hand. The design must be carefully chosen to never allow the bit to route too deep. The way it works is the software sees a drawing object (called a closed vector) and will tell the machine to lower the V-bit into the center of it until the depth is such that the sides of the V touch the sides of the closed vector. Then it will instruct the machine to move and raise the bit to keep the V always touching the sides of the vector. A lot of signs are made this way as font characters are closed vectors.

I will cover Profile and Pocketing in another blog. I don't do Raster. And that leaves me with V-Carve for now.

Here is a picture of the objects presented to the software which creates the design. This should be recognizable to someone who has done Chip Carving. I started with a bunch of overlapping circles. I then trimmed the lines (called vectors) until I had what is shown. Next I used layers in the drawing editor to copy certain elements of the design to end up with 4 sets of closed vectors. I then selected all the little parts and stretched them into an oval. Also pictured is the profile of the design and where the drill hole goes.

Image


And here is a video of it being cut. I edited it down to two minutes. It is worth a look, as I think this is the most magical part of a design. Maybe you should hit the mute button, as you probably are not wearing ear protection right now.


Take care,
Steve
 
#12 ·
OK Steve, it's been suggested several times but I think it's time to abbreviate your signature.

Steve, rocket surgeon …....................... has a certain je ne sais quoi and would look quite appropriate on your posts.
All those in favor say Aye.

Good video
 
#14 ·
That Video is SO COOL!

Just awesome how it can do that!

Thank you for showing…

How did you define your 3D source?
 
#16 ·
Thanks everyone.

That V-Carve stuff always captivates me. Just when I think it screwed up, it fixes it. Like Steve Jobs said "It's magical". Of course when things go wrong, it can draw all over the place - with a very sharp and scary tool on expensive wood.

That video is 90% of what happens, and it is running at normal speed. Things get slower when I am hogging out a larger design. I guess that is a duh. Also I took the dust vacuum skirt off for the video.

It is Cherry wood. And there is some double sticky 3M tape underneath because I do not have any tabs. If I did not use the tape, the part would take off flying just after the final profile. And then the drill would just drill into the air. Don't ask me how I know.

Steve
 
#17 ·
Nicely done Steve. "Ask me how I know…", you crack me up. :D I was somewhat surprised to see a climb cut on the outside. The disection of the intermingled patterns makes it seem so simple. Put them all together and it becomes gorgeous. What V bit are you using and where did you get it?
 
#18 ·
Very impressive, Steve.

I particularly liked the part where the 'V' bit dived full into the leaf shape. A bit of a heart stopper the first time you see it with your work piece under it, I bet! Practise on a scrap is probably a must then.

Thanks for posting. One day, ah one day.
 
#20 ·
Rance - you techno wenie. The V-bit is a Whiteside 90 degree 1/2 inch carbide.

Here is a quote from Ger21 at CNCzone:

I climb cut when cutting along the edges of solidwood and it's needed to prevent chipping or tearout.
__
Gerry


Here is another one:

There is a rule of thumb for cutting materials. If it is man made Conventional cut (like-plywood-plastic-foam-MDF). If it is natural, climb cut. (like-solid wood-cherry-Walnut-Poplar).

And it is the default for my CAM, but what do I know? This is not a hand held router…
Steve
 
#23 ·
Reading your description of the design process and then watching the video is like a composer creating a new piece of music and then directing a orchestra to bring it to life for everyone,
Great blog and thank you very much for taking the time to put it together .

Kiefer
 
#24 ·
But you weren't cutting along the edge of the board. ;-)

I had to google my own quote to see what I actually said.

Generally, if there is wood on both sides of the bit, then conventional cutting will give you a cleaner cut. But lots of factors come into play. Grain direction and hardness of the wood are the biggest factors.

I disagree with that second quote (which wasn't mine). When cutting rabits (or similar cuts along an edge) then climb cutting is the way to go. In almost all other cases, conventional will be better.

One other thing I noticed. It looks like you had your Z zero set a little too low, or the angle of the bit is a little off from what it's supposed to be.
Or maybe this was your intent, as it gives a little different effect.
Sometimes it's preferable to leave a small flat area between the V carved areas.

Regardless, it came out really good. You need to utilize the CNC more often. Remember, it's just another tool.
 
#26 ·
Hey guys,

Gerry, my biggest fear was that you would see me quoting you. Eh Gads, I got caught :) You can google yourself? Now that is cool.

So that particular profile as well as pocket cuts should be conventional? I was under the impression that hardwoods should basically always be climb cut. And the results were pretty OK. I guess I will try the next one with conventional (counter clockwise outside, clockwise inside). Thanks.

Yes my Z was a little to low. You weren't supposed to notice. If you look at the picture of the top at the beginning of this post, it was set correct for that. Also the bevel circle cut has been changed to a spiral so I don't get the nick when the bit first lowers.

And Rance, thanks for the notice. There is so much to control, that I can use all the help I can get.

Steve