Those blue plastic handled Irwin chisels are decent, inexpensive, and long. I used them for years. These days I like Veritas PMV11 chisels and Pfiel chisels.

 

I'm using a set of Japanese style chisels I got as a gift. I believe they are from Woodcraft. They are a bit of a different style but once I got used to them i really liked them. I don't own a set of mortise chisels but have been looking at Narex for those. I want Vertias PMV11 but not sure how much use I would get out of them to justify the cost.

 

I really enjoy my Two Cherry chisels. They seem to hold an edge for a very long time.

 

Q: What vintage are your Buck Brother's Chisels?
Why?
Have to be careful about chisel reviews. Age of chisel is important.

Example1: Vintage Buck brothers are great chisels. The buck bros marketed today are horrible by comparison, and barely worthy of opening paint cans.

Example2: The older blue handled Irwins with English Sheffield steel where nice everyday chisels. The vintage blue wooden handles were even better. The newer versions with Asian steel found online have much less edge durability, and should be used opening paint cans only.

Example3: Vintage Stanley 750 chisels are great tools. The newer 750 sold in stores today is not even close the same quality as old tools. Newer chisel edge retention is mediocre, and the handles and balance felt wrong in my hands.

Chisels, like most hand tools, have to fit the users style to work well. This means you will get a wide range of preferences for best chisel? in my personal use of a dozen different types of chisels, I mostly agree with Fine Wood Working review of bench chisels done back in 2008.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/08/18/best-bench-chisels
You should read the entire review if you can, as it shares a lot of data.

That review still holds true today, even though the Veritas PM11 steel wasn't available at time. My only difference of opinion is on the Narex chisels. The set I bought didn't have much better edge durability than cheaper Irwin, or store brand chisels? The Narex steel seemed too sensitive to grind angle. Go too shallow and edge chipped easily.
Speaking of store brand: The old wood handled Foot Print branded chisels with Sheffield steel where amazing, especially considering a set of 4 cost $20 on sale at local wood working store.

I think the new Veritas PM11 steel has better edge retention than the LN A2 chisels that FW recommended for western style chisel back in 2008, and gives me equal durability match to my Japanese Blue steel chisels. Plus it is easier to sharpen then both of them.

You mention wanting longer handles.
1) Have you looked at adding some paring chisels to your tool box?
My chisel preferences have drifted most recently more to the Japanese style, and white steel Usu Nomi has proven more comfortable than the western style paring chisels I own.
2) You can always make your own long handles.

Best Luck finding you favorite chisel!

 

I have a set of vintage Buck Bros. crank neck chisels and they are exceptional tools.

 

My narex chisels are working well for me

 

I have a $100 set of the NAREX chisels which I like, but I should have taken the frequent advice here and just bought the small set in the $50 range as I seem to only ever use a few of the set for the work I do. I saw these chisels recently on Amazon and thought these were the ones I should have bought.

 

That's quite a deal on those Japanese chisels. Anyway, I've used a set of Marples (the original, made in England) and I really like them. One thing about them, they do have nice long blades (I'll measure them later and post back). But last year I got a set of the Veritas PMV11 and they are the cat's meow…..but boy, do you pay for them.

 

I have this set of the Stanley 750 chisels. I like them a lot and they've been an excellent value for me. The rest of my chisels are vintage Stanleys and EA Bergs.

 

Metal wise I am not sure if you can best the Veritas/Lee Valley PMV11, they are just awesome. Below that unless your Uncle dies and you get his set of chisels it's really all about money. More $$$$ = Better chisels,

Buying new I wouldn't suggest any Western tools lower than the Narex or 2 Cherries. They can sharpen well, just know you will be sharpening them often because the grade of metal just doesn't hold an edge very long. The Narex Mortising chisel is a good buy if you need some pounders.

For lower $$$ and if you are starting your journey I would point you East, and suggest the Grizzly set of Japanese chisels. If you are already use to Western tools, the differences of the chisels may cause some gas, but if you are just starting going with Japanese tools will give you very good cutting edges for low $$$. If change isn't a 4 letter word to you, swapping to Japanese is smart. I only say this because a lot of people get hung up on the differences of the Japanese grind, and it makes them unable to change between East and West.

Western also you could look at older Stanleys, and refurb them IF they have enough metal left. Everyone gets all gooey about 750"s, they are Ok if you want to spend a lot of time putting handles back on chisels. I would suggest hunting down 720's and 740's as both had the same steel as the 750's and you can usually buy them at a better price. If you can, get to a place where they have all of the old Stanley chisels, and hold them, feel them. Are they good in your hands? If you can score some Everlasting chisels they are really nice, but prices there are often pretty lofty. The were the old Stanley's Holy Grail of chisels. A little on Stanley's old chisels.

plus read and understand what the different types of chisels are. From bench chisels, pretty much this discussion. Paring, Firmer, Mortising, and Carving. All of them have a place, and you may not need complete sets, but having the assortment will allow you to do more functions, and get better results. Chopping mortises with bench or carving chisels is a way to tear up your chisels, and you will be constantly sharpening.

The real deal is that once you get some fine chisels, none of them are worth snot if you can't sharpen them. So before you grind away your new finds, practice on those Buck Brothers. Get them as sharp as they can be, use them, see how they dull, watch what happens to the metal, then true them back up, and do it all again.

 

The real deal is that once you get some fine chisels, none of them are worth snot if you can t sharpen them. So before you grind away your new finds, practice on those Buck Brothers. Get them as sharp as they can be, use them, see how they dull, watch what happens to the metal, then true them back up, and do it all again.

- therealSteveN

I think this is outstanding advice and exactly what i did with my Buck Bros before using the new Japanese chisels. I was "newish" to chisels at the time and only went thru this process because I was afraid to mess up the new ones i received as a gift. But man am I glad i did it. I actually gained a little respect for the HD special Buck Bros. I got them hair shaving sharp and they preformed well…just wont hold an edge that long.

 

Narex set here and I like them but don't really have a lot to compare them to. I sharpened them before using. I got the full set and a couple of mortice.

 

I have a set of Ashley Isles MK2 bench chisels. Best chisels I've used. I didn't buy them as a set, I bought a couple at a time as they became available, I think I waited over a year for the 1/4" one. They are not always available. I love the bubinga handles. Right now I own 1/8" through 5/8" sizes. I may stop there as I don't use the larger sizes much and when I do I use my very old Freud chisels. I bought those back when Freud made hand tools in the 80's.

 

I can relate to the length issue. Just got a set of Schaaf carving knives and what a difference the longer handles make in comfort and control over the palm chisels.

Meanwhile, back at the [swinging chisel] rack, my chisels are all over the board. Thank you garage sales. I've got everything from high end to cheap. The latter are for that time you know there is a staple/nail buried.

After getting to a happy place with the feel and the steel, the biggest upgrade I made to ALL the above was, good diamond stones that allow quick profiling (but have been to take a couple over to the CBT wheels for rough in re-profile) and leather for stropping, with good compound. I really like the Flexcut gold stuff, but have good luck with jewelers rough on the buffer, and a final and repeats on the strop.

 

This reminds me of the automotive awards for "Initial Quality." The quality of bench chisels is mostly found in how well they hold an edge, which depends a lot on the sharpening skills of the user.

 

For years, I had a full set of Matsumura blue steel. Great. But thought "Hmm. Western? Wonder what that's all about?" No sense in duplicating sizes, so I sold off 3 - 4 "standard" sizes, keeping the odd 16th's. Got a couple LN and a couple Blue Spruce to refill the gaps.

I find myself going to the LN/BS for the "whacking" tasks, and the Matsu for the "pushing" or "nibbling" tasks. Or picking one based on random grab.

I also have a few LN mortise. very good.

All of these are everything they are cracked up to be. If you want to really go after it, buy one Matsu Blue and one LN or BS and see what you like. I kinda like the BS over the LN at the moment.

And then I just bought one lonely BS dovetail chisel. Still sitting in the box. Haven't gotten to that yet, but it sure looks grand.

 

I'm happy with my Stanley 750s, except for dovetailing. The sides are pretty thick. On a couple of the chisels the bevels aren't symmetrical, which kind of bothers me when I look at them, but doesn't affect how they work. I just recently ground the edges of my 1/4" to help get into corners better. I also got one Ashley Isles, which is really nice. I feel like I can get a better edge on it than the 750's.

If I had to get all new chisels right now I'd probably get Ashley isles.

 

I know everyone would like cool tools that look impressive and when upgrading you would hope the upgraded tool would do a better Job,I'm partially talking to myself when I say the following: A chisel is a chisel they all cut wood even harbor freight chisels ca cut well if sharpened properly, of course, there's a difference how long they hold their edge. but I've used Marpel brand chisels for years and they work very well and hold there edge just fine and I think they cost $29 for a set of 6 I dought there going to impress anyone but they work.
Back to my point do we upgrade our tools because there's a problem with them or to feel like we are better artisans by having them? Maybe we want to impress our friends and family and having that off-brand low-cost label makes us look like we don't know what we are doing to others. Yes some tools are not worthing having and we only bought them because they fit our budget, but some of US upgrade just because we want to, not because the tool we are replacing didn't do the job. Like I said earlier I'm including myself in that group. So am I saying we are bad or wasteful because we upgrade when we don't have to? No! but if analyze why we are buying different tool and surprize or self by saying "I really don't need to upgrade that tool perhaps we are passing up another tool that really needs to be replaced because it's broken or just doesn't work the way it should. I always encourage people to buy the best tools you can afford particularly where budget is not an issue, but those who have to sneak up on building a shop and their tools select your next upgrade or purchase base that purchase on need, not on esthetics or ego. Sorry for the long rant not completely on point.

https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos

 

Buck Bros make high end chisels with wood handles if you can find them, some are sold under Buck Bros trademark and some are sold overseas under a different trademark. I've read good things but haven't used them. All their chisels are Made in the USA. There is also a How It's Made episode about them.

 

I know everyone would like cool tools that look impressive and when upgrading you would hope the upgraded tool would do a better Job,I m partially talking to myself when I say the following: A chisel is a chisel they all cut wood even harbor freight chisels ca cut well if sharpened properly, of course, there s a difference how long they hold their edge. but I ve used Marpel brand chisels for years and they work very well and hold there edge just fine and I think they cost $29 for a set of 6 I dought there going to impress anyone but they work.
Back to my point do we upgrade our tools because there s a problem with them or to feel like we are better artisans by having them? Maybe we want to impress our friends and family and having that off-brand low-cost label makes us look like we don t know what we are doing to others. Yes some tools are not worthing having and we only bought them because they fit our budget, but some of US upgrade just because we want to, not because the tool we are replacing didn t do the job. Like I said earlier I m including myself in that group. So am I saying we are bad or wasteful because we upgrade when we don t have to? No! but if analyze why we are buying different tool and surprize or self by saying "I really don t need to upgrade that tool perhaps we are passing up another tool that really needs to be replaced because it s broken or just doesn t work the way it should. I always encourage people to buy the best tools you can afford particularly where budget is not an issue, but those who have to sneak up on building a shop and their tools select your next upgrade or purchase base that purchase on need, not on esthetics or ego. Sorry for the long rant not completely on point.

https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos

- a1Jim

I'm all about not buying overpriced status symbol tools. I'm actually a bit annoyed by some comments here given my top post. Like I said above, in the Narex premium range, not in the stupidly over priced 80 bucks a chisel that is shorter than the ones I have that one guy suggested after I specifically said that was the primary reason for upgrading.

The Buck Bros. I have were like 25 bucks at homedepot and my only real gripe with them is being too short.

I was actually looking at the HF chisels when they brought back the wooden handles, but having seen guys on YT show loose handles… Nope.

The ones I have are 3" from the edge back to where they narrow into the shank portion. I have an old 1/2" Stanley I got for .75 cents at a flea market that has a plastic handle and it measures 3 3/4", 9 3/4 overall. I've been looking in such places forever with no joy finding others.

Are you aware of a decent set in the sub $50 range that would have decent wood handles and a minimum of 4" blades? Longer would be better.

 

On the other hand

Set of 10 Japanese Chisels HIDARI ICHIHIRO
1 viewed per hour
$8,750.00

https://www.google.com/search?q=high+quality+quality+Japanese+woodworking+chisels&sxsrf=ACYBGNQTm9yFdvE-KdXOsR_TyAZZdJ2miQ:1576706507691&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjx7ri6mcDmAhWLq54KHfDpDzwQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1229&bih=585#spd=13968485569012083889

 

Gonna get two sets of the $4000.00 ones just in case I break one and because it will impress random people. Perhaps I should leave the price label on too.

 

Ha ha glad you have a big budget

 

https://i.imgur.com/H7U1pQG.jpg

 

Get ya some blue spruce tools and get whatever handle you want.
You will smile every time you use them.
Sometimes enjoying using a tool is as important as its function.