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Card scrapers, cabinet scrapers: sharpening, using?

4.9K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  rad457  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've never heard of card or cabinet scrapers until recently. I think I've been missing out on a crucial tool, for things like cleaning glue lines or removing marks from my misaligned #4 plane.
Are these tools in common use? Do you consider them indispensable? Do I need just the cards or the holders (Which is what makes it a cabinet scraper, correct?)
Do you use them for final finish? Do you have fancy sharpening techniques, or simply file them square?
Lots of rookie questions but the information I'm finding online, and on old posts here, is all over the place.

Thanks!
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
I do consider card scrapers to be indispensable. I have several sizes and use them frequently, especially on pieces that are prone to tearout or where I just need to work a small area. For larger areas that need scraped, I have a #12 scraper plane. I rarely leave a scraped surface as final, but have and others do so more often. Using a holder or cabinet scraper, such as a Stanley #80, is a good idea if doing large surfaces and you don't have a scraper plane. A card scraper get really hot in a short time, so becomes uncomfortable if doing very much at one time.

For sharpening, square them off and then pull a small bur with a burnisher. This video by William Ng is the one that first got me to understand how a card scraper should be sharpened.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
i used them in place of sandpaper. If a plane can't smooth it or it's in a tight spot I scrape it. They're especially good on curved surfaces in the same plane like a lot of cabriolet legs made today. I use them on 3 dimensional surfaces as well.

I've almost completely abandoned sandpaper because of scrapers. Planes handle the majority but that can't get into every space.
 
#11 ·
ya know you guys have reawakened me,i think its time I got mine out of the darkness and started taking them a little more seriously! and the perfect time is now with the maloof rocker I'm working on.this is what lj's is all about,inspiring each other!
 
#12 ·
Aw heck Pottz, I was gonna help you clean out your shop by taking your scrapers off your hands. But now I've got such a mouthful of SPAM I can't concentrate anyway.
Glad you got inspired!

Anyway it looks like most folks just use the cards, which are flexible, rather than using them in a holder; or you can use a scraper plane, which basically holds an iron at 90 degrees to the surface?
Still trying to understand these tools.

Plus this talk of burnishing, coincidentally the first thing I read on the subject was here on LJs in a post by Todd A Clippinger, http://lumberjocks.com/toddc/blog/6753 who says you don't need any of that, just swipe the bottom with a file at 90 degrees. Thoughts on that approach?

Clearly I need to try this myself… recommend a starter set anyone?
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
I've bought a set, made different sizes from old saw blades, even hacksaw. I also talked my local metal supplier out of one of his old bandsaw blades so now I/ve got ~ 20 feet of 0.040"x1" steel to make lots of them. I'm always running into a situation where I need a different shape or size.
I've read of folks supporting 90 degree edges and those who want an angle that gives them a thinner edge to bend a burr. I do both. For a little scraping in a corner, file a 15-30 degree edge on your scraper, push over a burr and go to work. If scraping a table top with a scraper plane the 90 degree edge will last longer. I bought a fancy tool with a carbide pin to get started then found that the butt end of a drill bit would work as well. Eventually I ran across a 1/2"x4" dowel pin. They're hardened and with a piece of garden hose as a handle works great.
Made my own card holder. Cut a shallow cove in a piece of hardwood on the tablesaw, glue another piece over the cove with a screw running through it and voila.
Start using scrapers and you'll never go back. When refinishing my dukcimer, a scraper gave me a surface on the wood that equaled going through several grades of sand paper and it's easier to control on edges and corners.
 
#20 ·
They have even thinner ones at .25mm (.01"). I think I may try them too.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49548&cat=1,310,41069&ap=1

- shipwright
I highly recommend these super thin ones, Paul. Not to use as a cabinet scraper, but they will excel at leveling finish. Just leave the edges square like they arrive (don't turn a hook), and they are perfect for removing nibs, bumps, sags, etc, in a film topcoat. I have both the Mohawk and König brands of finish scrapers, which are the same concept. The König is the best performer of those two, but I'll definitely be ordering a pair of these from Lee Valley to play with.

The beauty of a scraper for topcoats is that, rather than sanding it level and removing good finish surrounding a bump or sag, these shave them level. Usually one light coat over the top leaves a flawless finish, and for really minor issues, even just a quick burnish with something like burlap does the job.
 
#21 ·
Pulled out my box of scrappers and tuned up a few, always have a couple on the bench for some reason? Really like the Mini scrappers from Lee Valley! The Bahco (thick) work great to clean/flatten workbench or clean assembly/glue up table. I honed then on Oil stones this time and seemed to work quite well.