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Can Shaper origin take place of Domino

10K views 23 replies 7 participants last post by  pottz  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Have kind of wanted a Domino for some time, but never wanted to spend the money. Kind of curious about the Shaper Origin. If it can take the place of a Domino then it makes the price easier to swallow. What say ye that have experience with one or the other or both?
 
#2 ·
I have a Shaper Origin. I am assuming by Domino you mean something like the Festool Domino Joiner DF 500 Q which runs a cool $1k from what I am seeing online from a quick cursory glance.

It depends. Here's my honest opinion.

Not without the Shaper Workstation, or something similar that you build yourself, to give you repeatable indexed positioning for high quantity turnout.

I recently had to make a bunch of Lincoln-log style risers out of 2Ă—4's and what I did was I set up a simple rectangle on the Origin and used indexed stops to place my stock in the position for my cuts. With 2 taps, I could erase all the cuts from the Shaper's memory and insert some new stock, ready to go. It helps to have an MFT top and T track for quickly holding down parts.

I don't doubt the Domino would win in a production-run, but with an experienced and creative Origin operator, the margin would be slimmer than you probably think.
 
#3 ·
As the patents expire on the Domino, my guess is there will be a rush to backward engineer the design and function… this is the way of things. Certainly, Festool will have made several $million on the Domino before this happens.

The Domino is expensive, and it's possible to do most of its functions on traditional mortising tables. That said, in my shop, the Domino is perhaps my most used hand tool, and earns its place on virtually every project…

With the Shaper Origin, I fail to have the epiphany that prompted my Domino purchase, and it may be that my methods-of-work have moved too much toward the Domino's capabilities and workflow.

I hope that other Forum members contribute to this thread.
 
#7 ·
I have a Shaper Origin. I am assuming by Domino you mean something like the Festool Domino Joiner DF 500 Q which runs a cool $1k from what I am seeing online from a quick cursory glance.

It depends. Here s my honest opinion.

Not without the Shaper Workstation, or something similar that you build yourself, to give you repeatable indexed positioning for high quantity turnout.

I recently had to make a bunch of Lincoln-log style risers out of 2Ă—4 s and what I did was I set up a simple rectangle on the Origin and used indexed stops to place my stock in the position for my cuts. With 2 taps, I could erase all the cuts from the Shaper s memory and insert some new stock, ready to go. It helps to have an MFT top and T track for quickly holding down parts.

I don t doubt the Domino would win in a production-run, but with an experienced and creative Origin operator, the margin would be slimmer than you probably think.

- DevinT
Thanks. I knew you had one so was hoping you would chime in. I looked at the bundle and looks like the workstation is about $350 when bundled. I'm just a hobbyist so don't need the speed of the Domino, was mainly looking for ease, precision, and repeatability.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Isn't the depth of cut on shaper origin like 1/8" max? For loose tenon work I can't see how it's even a comparison.

Shaper origin seems to be better suited to do others functions.

- CWWoodworking

No, I believe it's 1.5". Plenty of vids online showing it making M&T joints.

- SMP

I meant per pass.

- CWWoodworking
Depends on your cutter. If you're using a 1/64" diameter bit and trying to take 1/8" cut, that's a bad idea.

If you have a 1/4" diameter cutter, you can go ahead and take 1/4" passes.

I have a 1" bit and I take 1/2" to 1" passes in milling no problem.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yes.

Shaper Origin software has a feature called "helix" which allows you to automatically bore large holes in a single pass using a helical pattern using the router. The diameter of the hole has to be larger than the bit, between 1/64" and 3" (to 0.0005" precision) to any depth between 0" and 1.5" (to 0.001" precision) in nearly any material, obviating the need for a drill press except for those instances outside of those narrow specifications
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
To make an oval pocket for a loose tenon with the Shaper Origin, use a cutter slightly smaller than the width of the pocket and do a helix cut to the full depth in 2 or 3 locations to clear the main waste. That's as simple as moving the router and clicking a green button and holding the router still while it plunges in a helix and then retracts. Then switch to pocket and clean up the material between the holes bored.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
To make an oval pocket for a loose tenon with the Shaper Origin, use a cutter slightly smaller than the width of the pocket and do a helix cut to the full depth in 2 or 3 locations to clear the main waste. That s as simple as moving the router and clicking a green button and holding the router still while it plunges in a helix and then retracts. Then switch to pocket and clean up the material between the holes bored.

- DevinT
Yeah that's what I was asking. I'm sure on the little marketplace thing they have people have uploaded the "plans" for the various size Festool dominos. (Excuse my terminology) So was curious how feasible that would be to buy the dominos and make the cut with the Shaper. Again, I would probably do this a couple times a year. But I am also interested in engraving names and inlay uses etc.
 
#15 ·
To make an oval pocket for a loose tenon with the Shaper Origin, use a cutter slightly smaller than the width of the pocket and do a helix cut to the full depth in 2 or 3 locations to clear the main waste. That s as simple as moving the router and clicking a green button and holding the router still while it plunges in a helix and then retracts. Then switch to pocket and clean up the material between the holes bored.

- DevinT
Thank you for that explanation. That is what I was after.

So forgive my ignorance if this is a dumb question, but if your skirt is 7' long, you have to set up jig 7' vertical?
 
#16 ·
To make an oval pocket for a loose tenon with the Shaper Origin, use a cutter slightly smaller than the width of the pocket and do a helix cut to the full depth in 2 or 3 locations to clear the main waste. That s as simple as moving the router and clicking a green button and holding the router still while it plunges in a helix and then retracts. Then switch to pocket and clean up the material between the holes bored.

- DevinT

Thank you for that explanation. That is what I was after.

So forgive my ignorance if this is a dumb question, but if your skirt is 7' long, you have to set up jig 7' vertical?

- CWWoodworking
That is a definite limitation. I'm not aware of anyone that has turned the Origin on its side like a PantoRouter. I don't even think it would function the same (gravity may be a key component in the system).

But hey, I guess you could get some scaffolding ^_^
 
#17 ·
No, it's not a substitute for a Domino. The Domino has features and accessories that make it ideal for loose tenon joinery. The Origin also cannot come close to the depth for the longer dominos.

Take a look at the Morley Mortiser as an easy to build and very versatile mortiser for loose tenon work.

You can however do many different types of joinery with the Origin. Here are a couple of examples of M&T (integral tenon, not loose) and some decorative half-laps.

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...and if you need a little cheering up…

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#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yes.

Shaper Origin software has a feature called "helix" which allows you to automatically bore large holes in a single pass using a helical pattern using the router.

- DevinT

You can t turn on helixing on cuts that are larger than the x-y gimbal that guides the motor can move. I also find it s often slower than doing it with regular passes.

- Rich
I know, that's why I said (which appeared directly after the part you quoted, but removed):

between 1/64" and 3" (to 0.0005" precision)
 
#22 ·
SMP, have a look at the Shaper Hub for ideas.

https://hub.shapertools.com/search?search=box

One of the things I am working on with the Shaper Origin is recreating perfectly accurate Knapp joints (which you can also find on the hub, but I am working on a more true-to-history recreation than what is on the hub).

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Don't forget double dove-tails:

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And that's just the start.

Oh, and did I mention that the Shaper software has an on-tool plugin called "Box Joint Basic" which, if you want a basic box joint, will do all the math for you.
 

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