If it is made from stainless steel, then yes. Otherwise no. Use NeverSeize or loctite on the end for protection.

 

Or brass.

Standard zinc coated screws and bolts will rust where you
cut or grind them. If it's just for aesthetic reasons and
a stainless screw is not available, the end can be polished
and coated with a little lacquer or maybe shellac.

 

If they are rust free, does that mean stainless? Most regular steel screws will rust if left outside in the elements- except good quality high nickel stainless. If you cut them off then they will rust faster because it is raw. You could paint the end with a good silver paint or put an acorn nut on it to seal the end.

....................................Jim

 

"Rust -free" are typically steel screws coated with zinc. If the coating is scraped of or exposed (cut end), the exposed area will rust. Coating the exposed area with paint or a rust inhibitor will help. But any iron product will eventiuallly rust when exposed to moisture for a prolonged period. Stainless screws contain a percentage of chromium and nickel which make the screws rust resistant throughout, not just on the surface of the screw.

 

can always spray the ends of the screw with this and see how it works

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=36!http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/products/SRCgcCldSpL.jpg!

We use an industrial version of this product with good results at work

 

Thanks to Madts and Loren.

Jim and Gene I'm talking about the stainless steel ones. I know from experience that they can still rust some eventually, but I suppose, like you say Jim, that the rough surface where it's cut will just rust faster than the rest it if it isn't protected with some surface coating.

This came up because my son is revamping a unique bike he got some years ago which was a prototype with a special aluminum frame. It is pretty cool. He is mounting even higher quality components on it and also hydraulic brakes, and the assembly for that is where the screw will be used. Unlike myself he is extremely particular with even the smallest details of what he is doing. I admire that, but I get a lot of questions, some of which I can't answer, like this one. So I appreciate the help.

 

Thanks Junebug, I can't get it in Norway.

 

Mike place the highest polish on the part you remove. This will prevent it longer.

 

Dave, but if I polish the part I remove how will that help the part to be used?, Lol. Thanks Dave I do get it and I will do it.

 

Mike,
Stainless surgical instruments are protected from there harsh environments by a process called passivation (also called pickling), read here about Passivation of stainless. It seems the key here is to be sure the end of the bolt/screw has no contaminants and is polished passivation, can be done with citric acid.

 

Thanks Tim. The job is already done. Luckily I didn't have to cut off much, so I was able to do it very accurately on the grinder. After grinding, I polished the ends to a chrome like finish just as you suggest.

 

Mike sorry I speak ***********************************, sorry. You get it.

 

Mike,
During my days as worker on ship engine, stainless steel is pure when you can not magnetize it though there are so many grades of strentgh. Alloyed with chrome and vanadium will rust but it is really strong that the rust will not destroy it in years. As long as the bolts or nuts are tight, it will not rust inside but those exposed to air will rust or corrode due to age. A simple coat of any sort that will prevent exposure to air then there will be no rust. Watch for those coated metals… even rethreading or just filing the bolts or nuts, the coating will be destroyed. In your place, take A2 type of stainless steel, markings on the bolts or packets will class it. Also try to use magnets.

By the way, scissors are classsed stainless steel, but they are magnetized because of hardening and tempering.
Hope this would help you.

 

You could also use titanium, K-monel or CRES, Cl 304, cond A.

 

Thanks Bert and Ron. The jobs done, but I did learn a lot from you guys. I don't know much about wood and even less about metal, so it always good to have a little more knowledge for future reference.

 

Hi Dave. I just couldn't resist. I am known in my family for sticking my foot in my mouth all the time, so I do my best to pick on others to compensate. It's all in fun.

 

aaahhhh the typical size 10 D mouth….LOL

 

stefang, I notice that you ground and polished the screw. Even higher grades of stainless can be contaminated when cutting or grinding. If your grinding wheel had been used on carbon steel prior to the stainless you could introduce carbon contaminants that start rust development. In your case the polishing - sanding with clean paper might be your savior.

 

Here is a good overview on how Stainless Steel works
In summary if Stainless is cut, with no iron contamination from tools and in the presence of Oxygen, its protective psaaive oxide layer will re-form and work as good as new.

 

Thanks jhunt.

 

had to look this up my self but these guys claim yes you can shorten it within the passivation process . Good luck!