I used the Makita saw mentioned above the other day to cut up some 3" thick, dry oak slabs. I had somewhat sharpened the chain previously, and after another round, it worked well- I finished the cuts before I would have even gotten the gas saw fueled and started.

 

The Makita costs 3x as much, but I liked the features (braking, in particular) and perceived quality. After a discussion with my partner, we decided to bite the bullet and order the Makita from the big online store. It will arrive tomorrow, but I won't be able to do anything with it until after trash pickup empties the cans at the end of the week.

Sometime this week I'll go out locally to get some chainsaw oil for the bar and chain. The DeWalt and Ryobi oils are more expensive but biodegradable. Biodegradable chainsaw oils have other advantages, according to my research. The biodegradable oils are healthier for you and better for your yard. They aerosolize less than petroleum oils and are less irritating to your skin. The Makita manual recommends biodegradable oil. The manual also recommends that you drain the biodegradable oil and run a little petroleum oil on the chain before putting it away for long term storage. The biodegradable oils can gum up and glue the chain to the bar when stored for a long time.

There are also less expensive petroleum-based oils available at the local stores. I will buy one to use for long term storage.

All of the above comes from online research, not personal experience. Hopefully I will get some personal experience soon. Even though I owned and used a chainsaw before, that was 40 years ago, and I am relearning as much as I can about chainsaw handling and safety.

Thanks once more for everyone's input and helpful suggestions!

 

The Makita UC4051A chainsaw arrived yesterday. The rectangular box had the chainsaw, bar, bar cover, an Oregon-branded low-kickback chain, and the printed manual/warranty. Makita did not include chainsaw oil in the box, so we will go out to the big box store and get some. We did not expect them to include the oil in the box.

The power cord is short. It has one of those plastic rings circling the plug, so you can't plug it into a standard outlet or one of those three-outlet extension ends. (I bet all corded chainsaws use the same "ring-plug" today.) The chainsaw has a couple of plastic "cord keepers" on the cord, but I remember the days where you looped the two cords in a loose overhand knot and called it done - fast and easy. I assume the rings keep dirt and moisture out of the plug connection. We have a hedge trimmer with the same kind of plug.

I am looking at chainsaw sharpening kits; the manual ones with files and guides. Makita has one for $50, but nearly identical ones are between $12 and $20.

The upcoming weather is not cooperating for trying it out - rainy days ahead.

 

Get a chain file... cheap and easy, and you can keep it with the chainsaw for use in the field if needed. It only takes a couple of minutes to do an 18" chain, and I bet it's even quicker than what would be needed to setup and use a dedicated motorized sharpener. I keep one in all of my chainsaw cases, along with a depth gauge and file for knocking down the rakers if needed. You can get a complete Oregon kit on Amazon for under $15.

Cheers,
Brad

 

The reason I returned to this thread is to report that we saw a 14 inch corded chainsaw at Aldi a couple days ago. A new 14 inch chainsaw for $20. No kidding.

That is more than a factor of ten less than I paid for our new Makita chainsaw. I asked my partner if I should return the Makita and give this a try to see if it might work, but she reminded me that we have more chainsaw projects in our future. I also thought about safety and long term uses like bowl blanks, too. We did not buy the one at Aldi.

I have not put our new chainsaw in use yet, but we have the oil, spare chains, and a sharpening kit. We have a lot of basic yard cleanup to do around that area, so we may not try it for a week or two, depending on available trash can space.

 

I assembled our Makita chainsaw yesterday and gave it a try. I now understand why people complained about issues with assembly. There is an adjustment wheel for chain tension in the motor/chain cover. The wheel drives a pin that pushes the guide bar in and out. If the pin is not aligned with the matching hole, the cover won't go together. So ... you have to look at the pin's position and adjust it to match the hole in the guide bar before you attach and tighten the cover. It is not rocket science, but it may have confused some people.

Even though it has been over 40 years since I owned a chainsaw, it didn't take long to remember how a chainsaw feels and how to be safe with it. I wore the facemask that I normally use for woodturning and was happy to have it. It didn't take long to fill a jumbo trash can with large chunks from that bird of paradise stump. It made a huge mess with the damp and fibrous tree segments. The chainsaw mechanism filled with wet fibers and jammed twice. It was a huge mess to clean up the chainsaw when I quit. Despite the amount of work, the stump does not show much progress yet.

A few drops of oil leaked out the cap. I tightened it twice and it turned again both times, so maybe it was poorly sealed by me at first. I discovered the issue as I was cleaning up.

Overall, I am pleased with the new chainsaw. It is well-balanced and handles well. It is right-sized for my needs. It runs quiet and is very smooth. It will be useful for cutting that stump and other jobs in our yard.

 

Reading this gave me a headache. I have 4 gas chainsaws and 2 gas pole saws, and my wife has a Stihl battery powered chainsaw with a 12” bar we’ve had for maybe 5 years. Big work requires a gas unit. Small work can be done with the battery Stihl. I suggest getting that 12” bar Stihl battery unit and 2 batteries and an extra chain. Battery life is good, and I haven’t felt the need to get a second one.

I have to keep an eye on the wife with her battery Stihl. She’ll run that thing out of bar oil no matter how many times I suggest she check it.

User info: keep the chain out of the dirt. That’ll dull it very quickly. With a battery unit, don’t force the chain into the wood. Just let it cut. Find a chain sharpener (Ace Hardware or such as that). They don’t charge much. As for you sharpening, if you don’t know how to do it well, you’ll start with a less then sharp chain, which will suck battery power.

An alternative is a small gas powered chainsaw. Stihl has an MS 170 and an MS 180. I had a 180 till I ran over it with my tractor. It was a great small chainsaw. If you are concerned about the useful life of a gas chainsaw, my largest Stihl is at least 20 years old.

 

Reading this gave me a headache. I have 4 gas chainsaws and 2 gas pole saws, and my wife has a Stihl battery powered chainsaw with a 12” bar we’ve had for maybe 5 years. Big work requires a gas unit. Small work can be done with the battery Stihl. I suggest getting that 12” bar Stihl battery unit and 2 batteries and an extra chain. Battery life is good, and I haven’t felt the need to get a second one.

(... plus more helpful usage hints and recommendations. See above.)

I am sorry my comments and this discussion gave you a headache, but appreciate your helpful input. '

Our usage pattern dictated a corded chainsaw, even though I knew that most people have moved on to cordless or gas. It is what I had before, so I knew the tradeoffs. I am pleased with the Makita chainsaw that we got. It was recommended by several here, and is a perfect fit for our needs. I tried it on a wet and fibrous stump, and it worked well under harsh conditions. It was more costly, and I hope it pays off over the long run. I hope 20 years or more.

 

Update:
We dropped off our new Makita chainsaw for warranty repair. The internal oil container leaks, even when not in use. We have used it only three times so far. Fortunately, we live only a few miles from Makita's US headquarters. The customer service door was hidden in the back. The customer service area was very clean but a small space for such a large building. It had a one person counter and a display of new tools to look at, but that's it. A person came to the counter, looked at our chainsaw, and brought in a specialist. The specialist looked at it, recognized the issues, and said he would fix it. It will be ready in five days, which is fine.

 

We dropped off our new Makita chainsaw for warranty repair. The internal oil container leaks, even when not in use. We have used it only three times so far.

That isn't exactly a glowing review of that saw! Three uses and already in the repair shop

Curious as to how much you paid for that saw. I have picked up used chainsaws off of CL in the $25-$50 range that were in like new condition. Best time is shortly after a major storm, where people buy them to get rid of a downed tree or two and then sell them as they are no longer needed. Never been disappointed yet, and have actually made a few greenbacks just cleaning them up and reselling them.

Cheers,
Brad

 

Well, the cap should seal at least, and I don't think it does. We will learn what repairs were made and see what comes back in a few days.

In general, I don't like things that leak oil in storage. I have yet to figure out how best to store it with confidence that it won't be a mess.

 

I have yet to figure out how best to store it with confidence that it won't be a mess.

Easy... drain the oil tank before storing it

Cheers,
Brad

 

I bought a battery powered Black and Decker chainsaw about 5 years ago to trim branches way up high (20 + feet) and it worked great. I think I paid about $70 for it. They’re $180 now. The corded one is $80. I had two old corded ones but tripping over a cord while using a chainsaw is not recommended. This B&D saw works great, but, as others have mentioned, the oilers on cheap saws are a constant flow. It’s almost better to just spray motorcycle chain oil as you go. Because of this, I would recommend getting a 14” Echo or Stihl for $200 and have a good saw before and after the job is done. Unless it’s a really big one, electric saws don’t really have the speed or power to bury the blade and keep going. IMO. Can always do the deed with an axe.

 

I have a Makita corded model and it has lots of power. I have cut a couple of trees with it that had trunk diameters larger than the blade length (16" bar). No problem. I am disappointed in the oil leakage that others have mentioned, but I just drain the reservoir when I put it away.

 

I recently sold off my Stihl gas chainsaw and polesaw. I do not use very often and lulling the starter is tough on my old body. I looked at an electric one but the cord issue was a problem. I bought an Ego Battery one and it is perfect for me. it cuts great and battery life is good.

 

Just some you can consider as extras if you need them. They may not last long, but I've been using an electric pole chainsaw, maybe 12" length, I bought from Harbor Freight. Surprised it has held up cutting up a birch that fell in a storm. Also they have a small hand held battery saw with about the same length blade, but you have to buy the battery and charger separate. Either/or you can get for less that $100. Yeah, they're cheap, Chinese, but the one I have been using is doing well for what I bought it for. Minimum investment, so...