One of the causes for swirl marks is that the wax was not completely cured before buffing. I.e., the surface was dry but not all the wax beneath the surface was cured. Hence, when buffing some undried wax was redistrubted. This frequently happens if a) an uneven coat was aplied, b) humidity is high (not your situation), c) too thick an application, d) in a low temperature environment, or e) inadequate drying time.

To help my keeping the coat both thin and evenly distributed I add saliva before sealing a can of polish and again when I open it.

 

I think its a simple case of not waiting long enough for the wax to completely dry.

 

@MNgary - you spit in your Briwax? Briwax is a blend of beeswax and carnuba wax thinned with toluene (or other solvents in their "toluene free" version). Saliva is not going to blend with Briwax, period.

@garberfc - Briwax can be a real chore to buff out. Once the solvent evaporates the wax itself is very hard. You should try to apply a very thin coat and let it dry well as was mentioned above. You will then need a liberal amount of elbow grease. A random orbit power buffer can be a great help. In you case I think moving the piece to a warmer area might also help. The results are worth the effort.

 

Switch to Johnson's or Butcher's, Briwax and the rest of the gourmet brands are a ripoff.

 

@Kazooman - I've also read about dipping my applicator cloth into mineral spirits, then into the wax. This is supposed to help 'thin' the wax and allow it to flow more evenly… Have you had any experience with this method?

 

I can't help you with the Briwax, I have no experience with it. I have always used Johnson's paste wax. I have used it for 30 years and it has been an outstanding product. With this product I try and put on very light layers and alternate the way that I apply it. I let it just start to haze and buff it off with a cotton cloth. Use a second cloth to start to get a luster then a third for the final clean up. Cheesecloth just doesn't do it for me. But that's just me. let us know what you figure out, please.

 

I'm not a fan of Briwax either. I would go ahead and put the wax on right out of the can, then you can dampen a cloth with mineral spirits and rub the wax with the grain after it dries and it will spread the wax more evenly and smooth it out , which will make it easier to rub out.

 

I have a radiator heater that works well to dry out the wax completely. I keep it about a foot above the heater and it takes about 10 minutes. Makes a big difference.

 

I haven't used any additional solvent to thin out Briwax, but it should work as far as I can tell. The original Briwax is softened with toluene. The "toluene free" version just uses other solvents, including mineral spirits.

 

Briwax can be hard work. I do use it for a final finish on most lathework.

 

I agree with Clint. I have a can of Johnsons and a can of Butchers in my shop. I work in anywhere from 60' up through mid 90'. Humidity all over the place. Johnsons and Butchers Wax never changes, save that a little less goes on at 90+ degrees. Used Johnsons for 12 years in my refinishing shop in the 1970's and 80's, never, ever once had a problem.

Never tried Briwax, but the one or two times I've tried other waxes, they eventually ended up in the trash.
Why invite the difficulty?

 

Briwax is definitely harder than Johnson's. Briwax goes on well with a little heat, which is naturally supplied here in Texas. Johnson's is definitely more fluid. The Briwax has a smell to it that my wife likes (weird), so I reapply it to our country pine hutch.

 

Actually, saliva does blend with the waxes and toluene, What it doesn't do is chemically bond. Instead, a suspension is formed.

The saliva acts as a lubricant in addition to inhibiting rapid drying so a thin, even coat can be applied.

The principle is used in the military's method for spit shining boots.