Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

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-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

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-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

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-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

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-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

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-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Nice! Looking forward to watching the build progress! A little jealous of the 400bf comment.

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Looks like another great build!

Congrats on the award!

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Thanks guys. It is off to a quick start. Hopefully I can keep the momentum going next week.

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Willie, I noticed the stealth gloat about the second place award. Well done! This looks like it will be another great project. Have a great Thanksgiving.

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Thanks Art. I think my son was just happy to have his bed back!

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Willie,

I am always impressed by your projects. They are well designed and masterfully crafted.

Can't wait to see it done.

Sean

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Congrats on your 2nd place at the Portland show. Very impressive as there are a lot of highly skilled woodworkers from that area, including yourself of course.

Your Sons desk is a great design, corbels and all. I love how you did those legs. I have made some square legs with four mitered pieces plus a center piece, They came out very nice, but I think your way better is more straight forward and it looks wonderful too. My next project will be using some large laminated pieces and I now plan to use your method, so I am very appreciative of you sharing it with us.

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Mike,
I have tried the miter method, locking miters, and thin veneers. I used locking miters for the legs on the bed. This made hollow legs which was helpful for hiding the wiring and transformer. I think each technique has its place, but I tend to use thin veneers most often. Once you get into 4×4" legs or larger, the locking miter becomes more attractive to save material.
Once the edges are eased, the veneer method looks just as good as the others.

Thanks

 

Building Legs, Cutting Mortises

Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project.

-
-
-
-
-
The current project is a small library desk for my son's room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk.

-
-
-
-
-
I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white oak to choose my stock from. My first task is to glue up some leg blanks. The finished legs are 2-1/2" square, so I glue up two sets of 3 planks.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I resaw some strips, and plane them to 1/4" thick. They will be used to veneer the legs.

-
-
-
-
-
I rip the planks into two blanks, and plane them down to 2-5/16" wide. Then I use clamping cauls to distribute the pressure as I veneer the blanks. Once dry, I trim the veneers with a flush trimming bit at the router table.

-
-
-
-
-
This is what the legs look like in their rough state. I batch plane the four legs down to 2-1/2" square, which leaves a thin 3/32" veneer. Do the math with me… 2-5/16" + 3/32" +3/32" = 2-1/2"

-
-
-
-
-
Once planed the jointline seems to disappear.
I did all of the planing by hand with an old Stanley plane.
Just kidding. I didn't do that.

-
-
-
-
-
Four legs complete, with quartersawn figure on all sides.

-
-
-
-
-
Then I mortised the legs to receive the stretchers.

-
-
-
-
-
Next up I will make the stretchers. Hopefully I can plane the board with the bullet without wrecking by planer knives! Maybe I'll pull out the old hand plane for that.

Good stuff Willie. Nice to match a face with the name. Never mind the old stanley. You need an LN

Congrats on the award at the show.

 

M & T Frame, and Lapped Dovetails

With the legs complete, I milled up some stock for the rails. All joints are deep mortise and tenons, except for the top drawer rail which is a lapped dovetail.

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Test fitting the lower drawer rail.

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The lower side stretchers feature through tenons.

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The upper drawer rail features lapped dovetail joints. With the same dado blade setup used for the other long rails, I cut the dovetail to 1/2" thick, and established the side shoulders.

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After laying out the lines for the dovetail, I made the cuts at the bandsaw.

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A little trimming with a hand dovetail saw and chisel completes the tail.

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The rail is positioned, and the mortise location is marked with a knife.

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I decided a router was the best tool to achieve a flat-bottomed mortise. I was surprised how stable the router felt on top of these 2-1/2" square legs. If the legs were any smaller, I might have clamped two legs together for more support.

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-
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I cut the 1/2" deep mortise in three light passes with a spiral bit. I cut close to the line, leaving the final trimming for a chisel.

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In short order I was able to fit the dovetails in their sockets.

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Rails installed.

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Desk dry assembly.

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-
-

Next up should be the corbels, and perhaps the desktop.
Cheers!

 

M & T Frame, and Lapped Dovetails

With the legs complete, I milled up some stock for the rails. All joints are deep mortise and tenons, except for the top drawer rail which is a lapped dovetail.

-
-
-
-
-
Test fitting the lower drawer rail.

-
-
-
-
-
The lower side stretchers feature through tenons.

-
-
-
-
-
The upper drawer rail features lapped dovetail joints. With the same dado blade setup used for the other long rails, I cut the dovetail to 1/2" thick, and established the side shoulders.

-
-
-
-
-
After laying out the lines for the dovetail, I made the cuts at the bandsaw.

-
-
-
-
-
A little trimming with a hand dovetail saw and chisel completes the tail.

-
-
-
-
-
The rail is positioned, and the mortise location is marked with a knife.

-
-
-
-
-
I decided a router was the best tool to achieve a flat-bottomed mortise. I was surprised how stable the router felt on top of these 2-1/2" square legs. If the legs were any smaller, I might have clamped two legs together for more support.

-
-
-
-
-
I cut the 1/2" deep mortise in three light passes with a spiral bit. I cut close to the line, leaving the final trimming for a chisel.

-
-
-
-
-
In short order I was able to fit the dovetails in their sockets.

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-
-
-
-
Rails installed.

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-
-
-
-
Desk dry assembly.

-
-
-
-
-

Next up should be the corbels, and perhaps the desktop.
Cheers!

Nice. I haven't used that joint much either….but I need to. Looks strong.

 

Inside Corbels

This is where we left things last time…

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The desk is quite strong, however it looks pretty plain at this stage. The next step is to add 8 inside corbels, so I made a template routing jig. I like to use toggle clamps, because they double as handles when routing. Carpet tape also works, but for workpieces this small I prefer toggle clamps to keep my hands clear of the bit.

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After cutting the rough shape at the bandsaw, I trim the corbels to size at the router table. Notice how the jig is a little longer than the corbel. This keeps the router bit away from the end grain and makes a safer, cleaner cut.

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In no time, I had flush-trimmed the 8 corbels.

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The corbels are attached with biscuits, and are centered on the legs. I made a simple offset jig to center the biscuit joiner on the legs.

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The offset jig is positioned against the leg, and registers the top rail.

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The offset jig is clamped in place.

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Now the biscuits will be cut in the same plane, and in the correct position.

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I cut three biscuits per corbel. My only regret was the biscuit joiner was too big to cut a slot in the top of the corbel. I would have had to cut the slot prior to assembling the desk, but that would make alignment too fussy. If I was worried about strength I could add a dowel or plugged screw at the top of the corbel.

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Corbel installed.

 

Inside Corbels

This is where we left things last time…

-
-
-
-
-
The desk is quite strong, however it looks pretty plain at this stage. The next step is to add 8 inside corbels, so I made a template routing jig. I like to use toggle clamps, because they double as handles when routing. Carpet tape also works, but for workpieces this small I prefer toggle clamps to keep my hands clear of the bit.

-
-
-
-
-
After cutting the rough shape at the bandsaw, I trim the corbels to size at the router table. Notice how the jig is a little longer than the corbel. This keeps the router bit away from the end grain and makes a safer, cleaner cut.

-
-
-
-
-
In no time, I had flush-trimmed the 8 corbels.

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-
-
-
-
The corbels are attached with biscuits, and are centered on the legs. I made a simple offset jig to center the biscuit joiner on the legs.

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-
-
The offset jig is positioned against the leg, and registers the top rail.

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The offset jig is clamped in place.

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-
-
Now the biscuits will be cut in the same plane, and in the correct position.

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-
-
-
-
I cut three biscuits per corbel. My only regret was the biscuit joiner was too big to cut a slot in the top of the corbel. I would have had to cut the slot prior to assembling the desk, but that would make alignment too fussy. If I was worried about strength I could add a dowel or plugged screw at the top of the corbel.

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Corbel installed.

Nice!

 

Secret Compartment Drawers , Transtint Dye

With the corbels installed, we can move on to the drawers.

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Here my son sands the drawer parts.

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I made the drawer parts 3-1/4" (the exact width of the drawer opening) to accommodate my dovetail jig. After the dovetails were milled I edge planed them to final size, being careful to remove an equal amount from both edges.

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The dado creates two sections to each drawer.

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The 3/4 extension undermount slides will only display the front drawer compartment. Releasing the friction disconnect reveals the secret compartment.

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"Counterclockwise, end grain first (unless inside a frame, then clockwise)." This is the rule of the router.
A quick roundover pass is made easier with an oversized base plate.

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I use a circle cutting jig as my oversized baseplate. It works so well, it feels like cheating.

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Here my son is raising the grain with a spray bottle of water.

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After a final hand sanding with 220 grit paper, we cleaned and dyed the desk with Transtint Brown Mohogany in a 1oz./quart ratio.

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Pre-raising the grain worked like a charm, and the dyed surface stayed nice and smooth.

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Next up will be the dark walnut stain, lacquer, and drawer assembly.
Cheers!

 

Secret Compartment Drawers , Transtint Dye

With the corbels installed, we can move on to the drawers.

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Here my son sands the drawer parts.

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I made the drawer parts 3-1/4" (the exact width of the drawer opening) to accommodate my dovetail jig. After the dovetails were milled I edge planed them to final size, being careful to remove an equal amount from both edges.

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The dado creates two sections to each drawer.

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The 3/4 extension undermount slides will only display the front drawer compartment. Releasing the friction disconnect reveals the secret compartment.

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"Counterclockwise, end grain first (unless inside a frame, then clockwise)." This is the rule of the router.
A quick roundover pass is made easier with an oversized base plate.

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I use a circle cutting jig as my oversized baseplate. It works so well, it feels like cheating.

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Here my son is raising the grain with a spray bottle of water.

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After a final hand sanding with 220 grit paper, we cleaned and dyed the desk with Transtint Brown Mohogany in a 1oz./quart ratio.

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Pre-raising the grain worked like a charm, and the dyed surface stayed nice and smooth.

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Next up will be the dark walnut stain, lacquer, and drawer assembly.
Cheers!

(unless the router in mounted in a table upside down)

Wow, that is coming along nicely. I have always wanted to try dye, I think your results have shown me the way.

Wish I had a helper. Mine never wanted anything to do with it. Now they have houses and still want me to do stuff for them. Oh well.

Steve

 

Bullet Board, Jeff Jewitt Style Finish

In part 4 of this series I pre-raised the grain, and applied the initial coloring with Transtint Brown Mohogany Dye. When the dye is wet it looks amazing, but quickly dries to a lifeless sheen.

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The drawer fronts were stained before assembly. After the glueup dried overnight, the drawers were lacquered.

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The desk was stained with Varathane Dark Walnut oil based stain. When wet the stain looked great, but it too dried to a grayish cast. Not to worry though, once the lacquer was applied, the rich warm color returned.

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Overall, the finish is a dark brown reminiscent of the old Stickley fumed finish. The Brown Mohogany dye gives the desk a subtle warm red undertone.

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The stain-over-dye technique helps to highlight the figure of the QSWO. The dye preferentially colors the medullary rays, while the stain colors the straight grain.

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I had this piece of white oak laying around my shop for quite some time. It has a bullet lodged in it, and my son wanted to incorporate it into his desk. After the stain went on, I polished the slug a bit so you can just see it through the finish.

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Next I will install the drawers on undermount slides, add hammered pulls, wax it, and set it under the Christmas tree.

 

Bullet Board, Jeff Jewitt Style Finish

In part 4 of this series I pre-raised the grain, and applied the initial coloring with Transtint Brown Mohogany Dye. When the dye is wet it looks amazing, but quickly dries to a lifeless sheen.

-
-
-
-
-
The drawer fronts were stained before assembly. After the glueup dried overnight, the drawers were lacquered.

-
-
-
-
-
The desk was stained with Varathane Dark Walnut oil based stain. When wet the stain looked great, but it too dried to a grayish cast. Not to worry though, once the lacquer was applied, the rich warm color returned.

-
-
-
-
-
Overall, the finish is a dark brown reminiscent of the old Stickley fumed finish. The Brown Mohogany dye gives the desk a subtle warm red undertone.

-
-
-
-
-
The stain-over-dye technique helps to highlight the figure of the QSWO. The dye preferentially colors the medullary rays, while the stain colors the straight grain.

-
-
-
-
-
I had this piece of white oak laying around my shop for quite some time. It has a bullet lodged in it, and my son wanted to incorporate it into his desk. After the stain went on, I polished the slug a bit so you can just see it through the finish.

-
Next I will install the drawers on undermount slides, add hammered pulls, wax it, and set it under the Christmas tree.

Beautiful finish Willie, it really brings out the rays well. I hope you find enough space under the tree!

 

Drawer Slides and Hammered Pulls

With the desk frame finished, I move on to installing the drawers.

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Since I am using single undermount slides for the drawers, I installed glide tacks to keep the drawer from tipping. I use wire cutters to trim the tack to about 1/4" long, which makes them easier to install.

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I centered the slide in the drawer opening , and secured it with mounting screws.

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To adjust the drawer height properly, I add a hardwood strip between the drawer bottom and the slide. The hardwood strip can be planed to exactly the right thickness, and is glued in place.

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I then use some felt pads to act as drawer stops. These are typically used as furniture feet levelers, but I found they cushion the closing of a drawer equally well.

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I tap the felt pads into the rear apron, and check the drawer fit periodically. When the drawer closes flush to the front of the desk, the felt pads are in the correct position.

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Drawers installed.

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Finally the desk top is installed with figure 8 fasteners.

Now I just need to clean it up and put it under the tree for Caden.

Here is the completed project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/94313

 

Drawer Slides and Hammered Pulls

With the desk frame finished, I move on to installing the drawers.

-
-
-
-
-
Since I am using single undermount slides for the drawers, I installed glide tacks to keep the drawer from tipping. I use wire cutters to trim the tack to about 1/4" long, which makes them easier to install.

-
-
-
-
-
I centered the slide in the drawer opening , and secured it with mounting screws.

-
-
-
-
-
To adjust the drawer height properly, I add a hardwood strip between the drawer bottom and the slide. The hardwood strip can be planed to exactly the right thickness, and is glued in place.

-
-
-
-
-
I then use some felt pads to act as drawer stops. These are typically used as furniture feet levelers, but I found they cushion the closing of a drawer equally well.

-
-
-
-
-
I tap the felt pads into the rear apron, and check the drawer fit periodically. When the drawer closes flush to the front of the desk, the felt pads are in the correct position.

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-
-
-
Drawers installed.

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-
-
-
-
Finally the desk top is installed with figure 8 fasteners.

Now I just need to clean it up and put it under the tree for Caden.

Here is the completed project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/94313

Very nice !

 

Drawer Slides and Hammered Pulls

With the desk frame finished, I move on to installing the drawers.

-
-
-
-
-
Since I am using single undermount slides for the drawers, I installed glide tacks to keep the drawer from tipping. I use wire cutters to trim the tack to about 1/4" long, which makes them easier to install.

-
-
-
-
-
I centered the slide in the drawer opening , and secured it with mounting screws.

-
-
-
-
-
To adjust the drawer height properly, I add a hardwood strip between the drawer bottom and the slide. The hardwood strip can be planed to exactly the right thickness, and is glued in place.

-
-
-
-
-
I then use some felt pads to act as drawer stops. These are typically used as furniture feet levelers, but I found they cushion the closing of a drawer equally well.

-
-
-
-
-
I tap the felt pads into the rear apron, and check the drawer fit periodically. When the drawer closes flush to the front of the desk, the felt pads are in the correct position.

-
-
-
-
-
Drawers installed.

-
-
-
-
-
Finally the desk top is installed with figure 8 fasteners.

Now I just need to clean it up and put it under the tree for Caden.

Here is the completed project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/94313

Awesome to see it all come together. Good stuff, sir.