Griz does not make anything. There are about 4 OEMs that make all the tools. TTI, Harvey, MSM and so on.
Who makes which saw in a brand name may actually change year to year as they are re-bid.
ShopFox and SouthBend are names owned by Grizzly. ( Woodstock International) Shop Fox is sold retail, Griz direct ship.
Jet is Jet/Powermatic/Baleigh. Proshop seems well reviewed.
Laguna has their own design. They look nice to me. (Saw an F2 in a store)
There is a Harvey for just a little more you might consider. Cabinet saw.
The Powermatic is well reviewed, but more money.
SawStop sells a small motor PCS and a Contractor saw. You do get a little better fit and finish for th eprice.

By definition, if the trunnion is attached to the base, it is a cabinet saw. Some are light weight with aluminum trunnions, but that is the definition. The definition of a hybrid is the trunnion is attached to the top. Basically, a contractor saw on a full base. Not sure there really is that much difference. The bigger and heavier, the smoother it wil cut. What we really can't tell is the quality of machining, bearings, motors etc. Things that matter.

ALL new saws have a riving knife. Do look at how thick. Some charge extra for thin kerf knife and most do not have a thin kerf full blade guard. Unless you run a 3 HP saw, you will probably want to run thin kerf blades. So look at the specs of the knife and guard.

You will make your own ZCI ( or buy Leecraft) so it coming with a second dado insert is not much use. I only use the standard insert when doing non-critical bevels. Do check if Leecraft has an insert for each of the saws you are looking at. They are worth it. I had to modify a PM insert for my Harvey.

Do consider paying a lot more, but getting a SawStop. They are very good saws, and of course, are a little safer.
Personally, as I jig or sled as many things as I can, I bought the Harvey C-300 instead of the PCS. I use my band saw for more and more small work.

Also consider, is this a "what I can afford now" or a lifetime tool? The most expensive saw is one yo will replace in a few years. Even putting out the big bucks for a PCS, may actually make more economic sense.

Also consider what you actually get by going to a hybrid over say the Ridgid contractor saw ($750) or Delta contractor saw. ( $650) In reality, just a box it sits on? Even the Jet and PM above are open leg.

Hard decision as we have several good choices. Nothing one can say is a real turd to stay away from.

 

IMO, you should spend just a little more and find a way to get a real cabinet saw.

Just looked at that shop fox and the fence was incredibly cheap. I believe the grizzly has same fence.

For a couple hundred more, you can get 3hp and much heavier built saws.
Grizzly 1023 or Harvey's version weigh approximately 200 lbs more than the hybrids and a better fence.

 

I purchased a SawStop 1.75 PCS as a replacement for my 20 year old Jet Contractor Saw. It took me 7 years to save up for it (I have a very shoe string budget). I'm glad I waited until I had the $ for a SS instead of buying what I could afford at the time. The SS is a very good saw even without the safety features. IMHO you'll be very happy with SS.

 

Whenever I buy an expensive tool I always consider resale. I have bought and sold tools for as long as I can remember, always upgrading or at least staying even but putting more money in my pocket. If it's not a brand name even if it's a comparable quality tool you'll take a beating. Forget Grizzly it's nothing more than Harbor Freight with lipstick. Last year I moved to a smaller house and had to get rid of a lot of stationary tools. I had two bandsaws. One was an 18" Grizzly about 4 years old. The other was a Rikon 14" about 2 years old. I sold the Rikon for $850 which was exactly what I paid for it and I sold it to the first person that looked at it. I had so many calls that I had to start a list of those interested. The Grizzly sat for over two months as I kept lowering the price. I can't remember what it sold for but it was less than half of what I paid for it. I would go for the Jet or better yet a used Powermatic 66 or Delta Unisaw.

 

Forget Grizzly it s nothing more than Harbor Freight with lipstick.

This is just false. I have a G1023, have run thousands of board feet through it and it's been a fantastic saw. Swapped out an arbor bearing pretty early on, but that's been the only problem. I can't speak for Grizzly's contractor or hybrids, and for the price, I wouldn't buy them, but their cabinet saws are great value. But if you want to pay for yellow paint, sure go ahead.

No Arbor lock, requires 2 wrenches to change blade.

lol, I use one wrench and a rag.

 

Also consider, is this a "what I can afford now" or a lifetime tool? The most expensive saw is one yo will replace in a few years. Even putting out the big bucks for a PCS, may actually make more economic sense.

Also consider what you actually get by going to a hybrid over say the Ridgid contractor saw ($750) or Delta contractor saw. ( $650) In reality, just a box it sits on? Even the Jet and PM above are open leg.

Hard decision as we have several good choices. Nothing one can say is a real turd to stay away from.

- tvrgeek

I kind of disagree with the first part of the above. But agree with the latter portion.

Purchasing a "stop gap" tool can ultimately be a poor financial decision. But that's not a hard and fast rule.

One could say it's just as poor, or an even poorer financial decision to purchase more tool than you practically need.

As far as making economic sense, it all depends on an individual's needs. I recently bought a Delta T2 contractor/hybrid saw. Only paid $480. Brand new from Lowe's. It's certainly a significant improvement over my last saw and is capable of anything I'll throw at it.

Still, it may not be a forever saw. But I'll bet I could sell it for nearly what I paid if I decide to upgrade down the road. And the years of service I'll get out of it in the interim are worth something.

Regarding your second point, that's really why I ultimately went with the Delta T2. As the Grizzly/Jet/etc. saws in the 1.75 - 2 HP range really didn't get me "more" in a practical sense.

I can't think of a single thing the Grizzly/Jet will do that the Delta won't. Or least nothing appreciably better.

For me, the Delta even had a leg up on the Grizzly out of the box; with its mobile base. Plus, one of the strongest points of the Delta is its fence. While reviews I surveyed indicated the Grizzly's fence is one of its weakest points. Not good when the fence is one of, if not the most critical component of a TS.

I was initially excited about considering the Grizzly. But, it didn't take long (for me) to conclude it wasn't remotely worth paying 3 times more than the Delta T2.

Especially knowing that with any saw, you'll want to do upgrades and add-ons. Which I could do with the delta while still spending less than just the stock Grizzly would cost.

In short, I've concluded that the best decision is to either go with a Delta/Ridgid (I think the delta is the better choice), or jump up to a cabinet saw. I just couldn't see the benefit of wading into the Jet/Grizzly class of contractor/hybrid saws for the price.

If I were forced to do so, I'd likely go Laguna. They just seem to be more dedicated to the quality and design of their end product. Versus the Grizzly/Jet/etc essentially being rebranded versions of the same mass produced saw.

 

Consider a fence upgrade no matter what saw you buy. Most saws can align and spin the blade fairly well. The real day-to-day difference is in the fence and miter gauge.

Put an incra TS-LS and M1000 miter gauge on an inexpensive saw and it will cut better and more accurately than a top end saw with a cheap fence.

 

Consider a fence upgrade no matter what saw you buy. Most saws can align and spin the blade fairly well. The real day-to-day difference is in the fence and miter gauge.

Put an incra TS-LS and M1000 miter gauge on an inexpensive saw and it will cut better and more accurately than a top end saw with a cheap fence.

- Madmark2

Good callout. I've noticed a few folks in the Delta 36-725 owners Facebook group that have upgraded their fences by swapping the stock fence for an aluminum extrusion.

Not an incra level upgrade by any means. But, a relatively cheap option to squeeze out some more precision.

As far as alignment, the T2 is easy to dial in. Initially made an error in my measurement and thought it was spot on from the factory. Realized I had some slop in my dial indicator jig. Fixed it. Found it was actually around .005" out of square to the miter slot. About 15 minutes later it reads dead on at .000".

 

Forget Grizzly it s nothing more than Harbor Freight with lipstick.

This is just false. I have a G1023, have run thousands of board feet through it and it s been a fantastic saw. Swapped out an arbor bearing pretty early on, but that s been the only problem. I can t speak for Grizzly s contractor or hybrids, and for the price, I wouldn t buy them, but their cabinet saws are great value. But if you want to pay for yellow paint, sure go ahead.

No Arbor lock, requires 2 wrenches to change blade.

lol, I use one wrench and a rag.

- skatefriday

Try an experiment. Go to Craigslist and list a Grizzly and a Powermatic 66 or for that matter anything and a Grizzly. See which you get more action on. There is a reason that it's easier to sell a Toyota than a Hyundai. Both get you the same place in the same time. One is just better. I have never owned a Grizzly table saw but I admit to being taken in with their cheap price on a bandsaw. You never go wrong with quality. Again I always look at the resale value down the line as well as how the manufacture stands behind their product. I've had mixed dealings with Grizzly but never an issue with Rikon, Delta or Powermatic. The only reason I contacted PM was to find a part that I lost in the move. THe saw is from the 90's or maybe the 80's and never had any issues at all.

 

Thank you all for your comments. I realize that with any decision there is always a need for some compromise. I understand that the more mass a saw has the more stable it will be and therefore cabinet saws are at the top with Hybrids following and then Contractor saws. Given my shop is in the basement with the only access being a flight of stairs I didn't want to try and move a 400lb to 500lb saw. I know each saw comes in multiple boxes or can be broken down into more manageable parts making the job easier. That being said I was trying to keep the weight no heavier than 300lbs. CWWoodworking mentioned the Grizzly 1023 and when I looked at it I went Huh! This is certainly more saw then I believe I need yet as was said it's only $200 to $300 more than the Jet. I am moving from a Shopsmith Mark V so most TS would be an upgrade. I already own a Jet 1221VS lathe and am very happy with it so I decided to move forward and purchase the Jet ProShop ll. Given that in order to use any TS I will need to move it via a mobile base and being the Jet is just under 300lbs I think this is acceptable. Now its a waiting game, with all the shipping delays we face I'll be happy to get it by this Fall. Thanks again for all your comments.

 

Whenever I buy an expensive tool I always consider resale. I have bought and sold tools for as long as I can remember, always upgrading or at least staying even but putting more money in my pocket. If it s not a brand name even if it s a comparable quality tool you ll take a beating. Forget Grizzly it s nothing more than Harbor Freight with lipstick. Last year I moved to a smaller house and had to get rid of a lot of stationary tools. I had two bandsaws. One was an 18" Grizzly about 4 years old. The other was a Rikon 14" about 2 years old. I sold the Rikon for $850 which was exactly what I paid for it and I sold it to the first person that looked at it. I had so many calls that I had to start a list of those interested. The Grizzly sat for over two months as I kept lowering the price. I can t remember what it sold for but it was less than half of what I paid for it. I would go for the Jet or better yet a used Powermatic 66 or Delta Unisaw.

- mgmine

Regardless what one thinks of Grizzly or Harbor freight, they are not even remotely the same. Go to both websites and search for table saws, bandsaw, lathe, etc. Not even close with the selection between the two. They hardly even overlap.

 

Thank you all for your comments. I realize that with any decision there is always a need for some compromise. I understand that the more mass a saw has the more stable it will be and therefore cabinet saws are at the top with Hybrids following and then Contractor saws. Given my shop is in the basement with the only access being a flight of stairs I didn t want to try and move a 400lb to 500lb saw. I know each saw comes in multiple boxes or can be broken down into more manageable parts making the job easier. That being said I was trying to keep the weight no heavier than 300lbs. CWWoodworking mentioned the Grizzly 1023 and when I looked at it I went Huh! This is certainly more saw then I believe I need yet as was said it s only $200 to $300 more than the Jet. I am moving from a Shopsmith Mark V so most TS would be an upgrade. I already own a Jet 1221VS lathe and am very happy with it so I decided to move forward and purchase the Jet ProShop ll. Given that in order to use any TS I will need to move it via a mobile base and being the Jet is just under 300lbs I think this is acceptable. Now its a waiting game, with all the shipping delays we face I ll be happy to get it by this Fall. Thanks again for all your comments.

- NJWoodCrafts

I personally wouldnt be that scared moving a 500 LBS saw down stairs. With a couple guys and the right approach, its pretty easy. It sounds worse than it is.

 

The top and motor are the heaviest parts. If you can take one or both off you won't have any problems. Typically the top is held on with 4 bolts.