Mat - I don't use a really wet cloth, just a damp cloth. To get into corner I'll wrap the cloth around the end of an awl. Once I wipe with the damp cloth I'll sprinkle a bit a saw dust on the joint, to be wiped pff after the glue dries. This seems to work for me!

 

Pre-finish before gluing whenever possible.

 

Try liquid hide glue if it's an interior application. It wipes away with water and is pretty stain friendly.

 

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/02/07/never-struggle-with-squeeze-out-again

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/EntryHall/Waxilit.html

Canadian woodworker and designer Michael Fortune, told us about Waxilit that he got from Lee Valley.
made it where the glue squeeze out would peel away and yet didnt' cause finishing issues.

Not sure that would be true of a Waterbased finish.

However I don't see it at LV any longer.

But in his FWW article he says that any 'silicone free wax' would work.

 

Noone said prep work for finish isn't a time suck. Take your time, make sure it's right and it'll look good in the end.

My dad was a woodshop teacher and taught me damp (fairly wet) cloth with warm water and a scraper to get in the corners. scrap,wipe scraper, scrape, wipe scraper. After each wipe of the towel on the wood, keep turning the paper towel. If you wipe twice your just spreading thinned glue that's on the towel. Painters tape helps prevent the spread but sometimes its more work up front for me than just glue and wipe/scrape. Or you get it in there too far and your trying to get the thin edge of the tape out of the joint. If you're getting that much squeeze out every time its causing you issues maybe your using too much glue. Put the bead in the center and let it squeeze to the rest of the surface. Also don't be afraid to get water into the joint, it won't get in there hurt it when its clamped together. Just follow up with a dry cloth to grab the excess water if it drips on the swipe. You can see as you wipe it the discoloration of the glue from just the water on the wood to tell you to keep going before it dries and save you some sanding later.

Also what kind of wood glue are you using? I've only ever used tite bond which has been around forever and thins easily with the wet cloth.

 

Also what kind of wood glue are you using? I ve only ever used tite bond which has been around forever and thins easily with the wet cloth.

- bc4393

titebond # 2 ( i think? blue label, bought a gallon of it a year ago, that gallon is almost up - come to think of it, maybe I should start a thread about glues as I have almost no knowledge of this and just bought it as it was there in home depot for a good price)

 

I wait for the glue to start to set up but not fully harden, then I use a slightly dull chisel to take off the squeeze out. The key is getting it at just the right time when it's partially set, but not fully cured, and it will come off easily. Wiping has never worked for me, I always end up with some glue in the pores that I can't get out. The chisel easily gets into most corners.

TB II is the fast set. unless you are in a hurry use TB I or TB III if you need waterproof (like cutting boards).

 

Use the painters tape. Tape the pieces together, then cut them apart with a razor blade. Glue together and after dried peel the tape and any squeeze out. No problem with stains or finishes.

 

I prefer to pre-finish parts.

 

Let the glue rubberize for a while. Once it turns from light yellow to dark yellow, you can easily remove it with a chisel.

I never use painters tape or a wet rag.

I feel like pre-finishing is a hassle. You have to tape or otherwise find a way to keep finish off the joint surfaces, otherwise your glue won't bond properly.

 

I use painters tape where I can, but for those really stubborn corners, I bought a set of wax carving tools at a dollar store. They have various shapes that fit into the corners, aren't so sharp that they scrape the wood. I don't know how I lived without them.

 

Pre finish parts or use dial soap bar. Rub the corners and parts with the soap bar and the glue wont stick. wipes clean with water as well. Been doing this for years. Don't need any fancydan wax stuff.

 

I have had good luck getting wet glue out of tight areas with a fingernail brush and water. If it is only leather hard a chisel will take it off quickly. be careful you want to remove the glue, not clip the surface.

If it is dried on hard I would use a scraper, or a sharp chisel to get it.

If you have the stain on and find a problem forget the sandpaper. A well sharpened scraper will remove it and with some practice you can work on the wet stain and not go backwards. a sharp chisel will often do the same in a tight corner.

 

Hide glue. I prefer hot but liquid is good too. Cleans up with water, no stain block. You still have to remove it but it is easy and painless. Unless the piece will get soaked regularly it will be fine. It also comes with other advantages.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/5437

 

Use epoxy instead of wood glue. Just a ultra thin layer of that stuff in most joints means never, ever coming apart and way less squeeze out imo. Longer open time as well.

 

Hide glue. I prefer hot but liquid is good too. Cleans up with water, no stain block. You still have to remove it but it is easy and painless. Unless the piece will get soaked regularly it will be fine. It also comes with other advantages.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/5437

- shipwright

When Paul backs me up, I know I got it right.

 

I will 3rd HHG.

For items not exposed to weather it is some great stuff. I use the hell out of it on jewelry boxes and what not. A couple damp shop towels, an old toothbrush, and a toothpick like sliver of wood. sometimes it doesn't cooperate but I'm still working out the kinks. It's really easy easy to work with most of the time

 

Use less glue. I spread the glue thin with a scrap of lexan. You can see how even your glue is spread and holding to the edge insures consistent coverage amounts. As long as you have minor (< 1/16") squeeze out it'll vanish over 24 hrs as the glue dries fully.

M