if you already have 230… go with 3hp… you can get the same 30" size rails with a more powerful motor, better blade guard,and heavier duty fence. the savings are not really that significant when you are talking about an expense in that price range.

as for feedback - I don't think anyone has yet gotten the 1.75 version, it was just announced a week ago.

 

If you can afford it, and you have the 230/240, then go with the 3hp. I recently purchased the 3hp industrial version (upgrading from a 1.75hp Jet) and can tell you that there is a very substantial difference between the 1.75hp and the 3hp motor.

By the way, I was originally going to get the 3hp professional and then found out that the blade goes out of square when raised to the stop limit. It is not a problem if you crank it down just a bit, but if it hits the stop limit, then the blade tilts to one side. Also, the trunnion is attached to the cast iron top and not to the cabinet, like a true cabinet saw would be. That was enough for me to spend the extra money (just under $1,000) on the 3hp industrial. That being said, there are plenty of people who are very satisfied with the 3hp professional. You wont find any "hands-on" opinions (yet) on the 1.75 SawStop Professional, as PurpLev stated, it was just announced about a week ago and goes on sale this summer.

Good luck with the new saw purchase.

Steve

 

Don't pass up the extra horsepower over the cost of a rip blade. You'll come into enough money for a rip blade several other times in your life, but you'll probably never buy another saw. 1-3/4hp is "adequate" with good alignment and good blade selection, but that doesn't make it as nice to use as a 3hp. I'm guessing you'll be happier with this as your last saw if it always "wows" you. Plus the 3hp will never work as hard, so should last longer. The 3hp will hold value better too.

 

More power har har har

 

Well, you have me leaning towards the 3 hp version. Saw Stop will not sell the 30" rails with that model so if I do get it I may have to modify [make that shorten] the rails that come with the fence. They also makes the "optional" [$69 + shipping] extension table a "throw away item", but if you want to exclude it they actually charge you more. It's probably the way they have it shipped from wherever they manufacture it. I may just shorten it and see if it is practical to mount a router on it.

When I get it into my shop I will see what I can live with, but I am really short on space. I don't expect that to change any time soon. Anyway, thanks to all who replied.

 

I have a 1.75HP, saw and I can tell you this is just not enough. I am thinking about replacing the motor on my saw.

 

Azor, it really depends on what you intend to do with it. I have the 3 hp PCS, but doubt I need that much power. I had a Ryobi benchtop BT3000 for over 10 years, and used a thin kerf combo blade and it was extremely rare that I had to slow down or had any bogging, maybe 5 or 10 times total. When I did, I just switched to the rip blade, and no problems. With 120, it helps to run the shortest extension cord possible ( and go with as low a gauge as you can find) so the motor gets as much juice as it can. Since the vast majority of what you cut will be 3/4 or at most 4/4, I am sure that 1.75 hp would be fine.

 

Barry, Your logic is good. I have a 1.75 hp Steel City table saw I use over the winter in another location and its just "ok". I used it to cut 8/4 red oak this winter with a Freud combo thin kerf saw blade and it really bogged down. I was pushing the Freud as I noticed later its label said it functions as a rip for up to 4/4. I did have a rip blade, but forgot about it at the time and later on when I found it I didn't have any 8/4 left to try it out on. I probably could get by on the 1.75 hp, but this, is hopefully, my last table saw. I am losing my current saw this weekend. I don't want to wait to see if Saw Stop actually delivers the 1.75 hp model in August so will go ahead with the 3 hp and deal with the issues that situation creates for me. Dick

 

Well, I made the plunge. I now have a Saw Stop Professional with a 3 HP motor in my shop. It fit much better than I thought it would given the small size of my building. It is well made, with easy and well thought out setup instructions. The miter slot alginment was dead on [using the try square method of measurement]. The place where I bought it even put the base on for me which really, really helped as I was concerned about lifting it up myself after installing the base since I have had problems with my back. The ease at which the the guard can be removed and replaced helps to keep things running safely in addition to its flesh sensing circuitry. I recently ripped a 3 1/2" thick x 30" piece of African hardwood [not sure of the species] using a combination blade without any slowing down of blade speed. Saw Stop's customer support has been very good so far. I wanted it to be my last table saw and this one will fill the bill.

 

I have a 2 hp Jet TS. i can live with it and I probably will for a while, but I wish I had more power. In my case, more power means 220 volt which I currently do not have in my shop. Ya know, 110 volts can give you a good shock - 220 volts can kill you.

 

Do yourself a favor and buy a "back-up" of the saftey cartridge or at bare minimum be sure that your local place keeps them in stock. False triggering is not unheard of and you don't want to be stuck with an inoperative saw. It absolutely will not run w/o the thing in place.

Also, take them serioulsy about the clearence to the blade from the cartridge. If you happen to install a blade that is smaller in diameter w/o moving the cartridge closer, the motor will not start…ask me how I know.
All 10' blades are not exactly the same diameter and it does matter with these saws.

 

If you like me and your job has you moving frequently, I'd go with 1.75 hp with a thin kerf blade and one of those blade stabilizers. I have moved twice since I got my saw and had to run 220 three times - when I got it and then twice when I moved. Even when you do it yourself, it can cost a bit, expecially if you don't have any spare breakers. If you are not going to be moving, definitely go with the 3 hp.

 

Longhair question - without the cartridge in place will it run in bypass mode? I do have a source of supply about 7 miles away and since I am retired I can wait over a Sunday when they are closed to get one on Monday. So far I have been very careful every time I put a new blade in to get out my "nickel" to adjust the setting.

Rich - I have been running my previous saw on 220 volts for several years now without any problems, death, etc. This woodworking certainly has its risks, but what is life without risks?

Hokieman - my wife says our next move will be into assisted living, heh, heh. I don't think that move will keep me going in woodworking. Will have to take up something else like weaving, whittling, carving, etc.

 

Looks like you bought what you need, congrats on having the moolah to do it.

RichGreer, 110 will kill you…220 will leave your eyeballs looking like hard-boiled eggs. I've been bit by both, fortunately back when I was immortal. Now that I'm not immortal, I turn off the breaker every time.

 

I seem to be going against the trend here, but I have a 1.75hp Sawstop contractor saw and think the power is great. I also have 4 lines of 220 in my garage, so power source was not an issue. I originally had the intention of changing the wiring of the saw over to 220, but after having it for about 7 or 8 months and using it about 3-4 days a week I am not going even do that. I have also had several hours experience on a 3hp Sawstop cabinet saw during the classes I have taken at Woodcraft and have never felt like I wished I had gotten the 3hp version. Ultimately you have to make the decision though.

 

110 volts can kill too Rich (-:

 

Azor,
I too have purchased my last table saw. Should be delivered this week. I bought the 3hp Pro Sawstop. I didn't want to get the 1.75 and then regret that I didn't buy the 3. Now that you've had yours for a while do you have any other thoughts about the power or the brand? Have you noticed any less burning with the more powerful motor?

 

am I the only one who doesn't use a 24 tooth rip blade? I have a PM 66 3hp and most of the time I have either a 60 tooth, an 80 tooth frued. If I do any serious ripping (10/4 oak) I use a 50 tooth oldham wood worker series. Does this seem odd to any one. I never have any problems with burning unless the board pinches.

 

"am I the only one who doesn't use a 24 tooth rip blade? I have a PM 66 3hp and most of the time I have either a 60 tooth, an 80 tooth frued. If I do any serious ripping (10/4 oak) I use a 50 tooth oldham wood worker series. Does this seem odd to any one. "

Because you have ample power, I don't doubt that it's working for you (assuming a clean sharp blade), but your motor is definitely working harder spinning a 50T blade in 10/4" oak than a 24T blad, and the chances of burning are greater. Most manufacturers would not recommend a 50T blade in 10/4" oak (ie: Freud suggests a max of 6/4" with their 50T LU84) .....18T to 24T is more typical recommendation in that thickness.

 

That is good info maybe I will investigate a glue line ripe blade any suggestions?

 

I have a 30 year old craftsman that is seriously underpowered. However, with a thin kerf 24 tooth Infinity blade, I had no problems at all with the 8/4 maple for my bench. I have several Freud and Woodworked II blades and this Infinity is right up there with them. That said, if the cost of 3 HP vs. 1.75 is only the cost of a blade, I would jump on the 3 HP.

map

 

Most of the 30T GLR's are only recommended for up to 1"....they're more likely to burn than the 50T because they have a very tight side clearance. The 30T WWII will handle fairly thick stuff with little burning and a good clean edge. Most of the better 24T rippers will also leave a glue ready edge with less chance of burning….the Infinity 010-024 is excellent, as is the LM72, or CMT 202.024.10.

 

My experience with rip blades is minimal. My experience with high end table saws is non existent.

I recently purchase a Freud rip blade, and can attest that on my underpowered ryobi, the difference was profound.

The saw struggled mightily to rip my hard maple stock, despite the brand new 60T Freud blade. Needing to rip more, and having investigated here, I sprung for the rip blade. ( cheaper than the 60T… Added bonus!)

Not perfectly smooth cuts (perhaps its my technique) and needed some attention prior to glue up, but I am a believer.

 

I've had my Sawstop 3 hp Pro for a few years now. It has never bogged down although I don't cut a lot of 8/4 and above lumber either. Although I enjoy the extra power of the 3 hp [I have a 1.75 hp in another state] I like how well this saw is made and how easy it is to keep aligned although mine has never needed much realignment. Sawstop tech support has been good. That said I can accomplish all I do with my 1.75 hp Steel City tablesaw in my other shop. I just have to make sure I rip with a rip blade and to keep it and all my blades sharp. My biggest problem with the Sawstop is using a freud 10" blade that is not quite 10". You can lower the riving knife just about so far before a grounding problem prevents the saw from operating. I know the day is coming when I will have to take the time to grind down the riving knife if I want to keep using my Freud blade.

 

JerryinCreek,

I never had much of a burning problem with either my 1.75 or 3 hp saws. I don't think burning to be caused much by the lack of horsepower. Have you tried ripping close to the cut line then ripping off a thin slice to final dimension? Blade sharpness is another factor. Then there is the fact that some woods burn more readily than others.