[7Footer]

Thanks JayT, I gotcha.. That makes sense. Do low angle planes not work as well with the bevel down (at 12 degrees)?

 

[DaddyZ]

Sounds like JordanP is volunteering to head the next swap.

Measuring Tool sounds good to me !!!

 

[Hammerthumb]

7footer - if your bevel was at 25deg and the bed at 12deg, and the bevel down, the cutting edge of the iron would not make contact with the wood. The end of the bevel where it meets the flat of the iron is what would contact first. Take an iron and lay it bevel down on a flat surface at 12deg. You will see what I am talking about.

 

[7Footer]

Ok I see, sorry I'm still a newb to a lot of this, when JayT explained it I didn't think about how the iron would lay but now I can visualize it.. Thanks!

 

[Iguana]

7Footer - to hopefully add more clarification - there is a difference between "bevel-up" and "low angle".

The term "bevel-up" refers to the orientation of the plane iron. The only criteria is - is the bevel facing up?

The term "low angle" refers to the effective cutting angle at the tip of the iron being lower than normal. (Normal being 45°)

I will add two more terms:
(1) "bed angle" - which is the angle of the bed of the plane - the surface that the iron lays on.
(2) "bevel angle" - the angle at which the bevel is ground.

When you have a bevel-up plane, you add the bevel angle to the bed angle to get the effective cutting angle. Because of this addition, a plane designed for bevel-up use typically has the bed at a fairly low angle - 12° or 20°.

With a bevel-down plane, the effective cutting angle is simply the bed angle.

So, then, what really is a "low-angle" plane? Usually, that means a 37° effective cutting angle. That can be achieved with either a bevel-up or bevel-down plane. The one I made for this swap was a bevel-down, with a bed angle of 37°. Because it is bevel-down, the effective cutting angle is also 37°.

You can also have a bevel-up plane using a bed angle of 12° and a bevel angle of 25° to achieve a 37° effective cutting angle (e.g., the metal-bodied 60 1/2). Same end result, just a different way of achieving it.

The advantage of a bevel-up plane is that you can vary the effective cutting angle by changing the bevel angle of the iron. (Regrind it, or swap it for an iron with a different angle)

 

[donwilwol]

to add some more info, you can change the effective angle of a bevel down plane by adding a back bevel (secondary bevel). some (including myself) do not care for a secondary bevel, but others swear buy it.

 

[CFrye]

Stupid question time. Is it feasible on a wooden bodied plane to use the iron on either side of the pin by using a thicker wedge on the front side?
Edit: Or maybe use another iron on the front?

 

[shampeon]

Candy: there's nothing preventing it in principle, but there are a bunch of issues that make it impractical:

• the mouth of the plane would be toward the back of the plane instead of toward the front
• the mouth opening might be too small or too large
• chip ejection could be bad
• the wedge might not hold

 

[RPhillips]

Good info there Mark, thanks for sharing.

 

[CFrye]

Thanks Ian, all that makes sense.

 

[jordanp]

Been quiet around here…......................................................................... What's everybody up to?

 

[LakeLover]

Thad Dahhhhhhhhhh

The plane and accessories. Great work there.

That iron is one beast. Thanks Rhett.

I left the camera in the truck overnight so I will recharge the batteries and get some shots.

All packed in shavings from the plane testing.

Thanks Jordan

Do I get a prize for the longest wait?

 

[Sanding2day]

Anxiously awaiting another swap As Shelly stated I need a deadline for something other than my 70+ hour work weeks and current shop tinkering to take place…

 

[RPhillips]

I'm up for anything on the next swap. I liked jordan's idea of marking and measuring.

 

[7Footer]

I kind of like the idea of a grease box swap, maybe you can even make your own concoction of grease to fill it with…. I didn't even know what a grease box was until a week ago when I saw Tugboater comment about one on Stef's State of the Shop Thread, then I found Mafe's blog about them, and then even weirder - a couple people posted projects of them the same day.

 

[bobasaurus]

I like the grease box idea a lot. Been meaning to build one of those for a long time.

 

[DonBroussard]

I missed the swaps before the marking gauge swap, so I'd be interested in a swap for a mallet or a marking knife or an awl. Feel free to post here or PM me if you're interested.

 

[LakeLover]

Ok This is it.

The box with shavings.

The contents that were well wrapped. A nice cover letter, The block plane, An iron that is a real iron sharp as heck. A nice adjusting hammer with an alum face on one side. and a iron holder.

Took a few minutes to fettle and got these shaving on a piece of birch. With some use I should be able to get a thinner shaving. It fits the palm well.

 

[terryR]

Congrats, LakeLover, that a nice looking plane and hammer!

So far, we've mostly been swapping each 4 months, which sounds like a long time, but look how many of us went down to the wire this time. Plus, we sorta picked Oct for this swap planning to skip the Holiday shipping craze, everyone on vacation, etc. for the next one. How does end of Feb sound for the next swap to end?

I liked how we voted prior to the marking gauge, even though I didn't vote gauge.

I also like how we are all making the same thing, sort of, at the same time. Although a miscellaneous swap would be Ok with me if we can stick to just measuring and marking, or one 'category' of tool. I've never made a grease box, so that interests me, just like a square. Then again, another mallet swap could be cool, and no one has enough knives.

Guess we need a new leader…and more discussion?

 

[chrisstef]

Fwiw i love my greasebox. Its always on my bench. Ive refilled it 3 times all ready. I may not be able to participate but id vouch highly for the frequency in which i use mine.