1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Thanks for a great, in-depth and well photographed blog! Definitely a favorite and on my list.

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Wow!!! Just wow! Love the detail and photos! Well done!

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Part 2:

Step 8:

Insert and glue the top slide blocks.

This is a really tricky part and take your time.. Put the three pieces together. Make sure the slide moves easily and does not bind. If it does, sand, scrap, chisel, adjust until it does.

The place a nail in the "wheel" hole and the trigger hole placing those pieces in place.

Temporarily put the wheel stop block in position as shown.. NOTE the position.

Slowly move the slide back and when the trigger gets near the back of the guard the wheel should clear the stop block!!!!!

By the time the trigger is fully depressed the wheel should be clear of the block and then hitting the hammer.

Glue in place.

Take your time and make sure otherwise it will not fire correctly.

Step 9:

Using the nails you have in place slide the left slide in position and glue. Again make sure nothing binds up the slide action on the barrel.

Then do the same for the left body piece. Then start some finish sanding.

Step 10:

Take the nails you used for temporary pinning and cut them down and insert to hold the hammer and wheel in place.

Step 11:

Shape and sand the grips. Pin in place using existing holes and glue.

Step 12:

Shape and sand the locks. You might want to thin them a little and screw in place so the swing out of the way.

Step 13:

Sand, shape, sand, shape, sand, shape till you are happy.. then finish with your favorite finish.

I hope this helps.

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

You totally rock! Personally… I am a bit AR… So I really appreciate the details and organization! Wow! Cool!

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Good instructional. Working on the gun now. Started it before I found your instructions. Am using inches also. Same thicknesses as you only using birch plywood. I made a SketchUp model to help which is at

. The SketchUp model is available on my web site at http://worksgunwerks.weebly.com/the-downloads.html . The model is being updated as work continues. Will upload new model when finished. Note: I also accidentally have the ejector on the wrong side (model is correct though).
Jb Wo

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Here is my version of the 1911. Made it with maple and walnut and finished it up with Birdseye maple grips.

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

hi, the links to download the M1911 wont let me download the plans :-( I would love to try and build this so could you send me the pdf to my email address please nick??

Ian

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Ian

I need the email address

hi, the links to download the M1911 wont let me download the plans :-( I would love to try and build this so could you send me the pdf to my email address please nick??

Ian

- topcat1970

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Hi Nick,

Email: i.lthm70@gmail.com

many thanks,
Ian

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

hi Nick,

Im still waiting for you to email me the pdf blueprints so I can start to make this please

many thanks,
Ian

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Ian, I am sorry I no longer have the pdf. Everything I have is here on this blog. The link to download the plans is now working. Hope this helps

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

ive just downloaded the app SCRIBD to get the pdf plans but there is no way to download them!!!!! :-( the blueprints are there but cant find any link to download them :-( guess I wont be able to build it now

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

I found the PDF file & emailed it to Ian. (At least, I THINK it's the correct one; it seems to match the file on SCRIBD.) If anyone else wants a copy, just let me know.

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

thanks ABQJohn for the pdf blueprints its not the full plans tho as the pdf blueprints are missing some of the internal mech like band wheel, top blocks, barrel and maybe few other pieces so still cant build it as dont know measurements for yhe missing pieces :-(

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Those are better than the average rubber band gun!
Nice project, added to favorites.

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

help kendycabello1995@gmail.com

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

really hoping to build this for my boy for christmas. any way you could send me the pdf plans on this? many thanks!

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

my email is s.generator@hotmail.com. thanks again.

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

Hey Nick i cant download the pdf file can you please send it to me
thanks

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

my email is coxj20@meridianschool.sa.edu.au

 

1911 Automatic Rubber Band Gun with working slide.

This is a long project and I was asked to put together a HowTo blog. I will do my best and have taken lots of pictures. My project is located HERE Three Guns For Christmas

A few words and warnings. First if you use this blog to build rubber band guns for children you must paint the tips bright orange. These are very realistic and could get a kid shot or killed. DO NOT MAKE THESE FOR CHILDREN unless you make sure they are easily identified as Toys. Please please please

This is not an easy project you will use all your woodworking skills.
The owner of the plans and the project is on You Tube HERE

He asks you do not use these plans to make money or resell the guns. I have to honor his wishes and hope you do as well. Also.. Watch his video I am sure it will fill in the blanks that I miss.

I have also converted the metric over to inches.

As always… It is required you wear all safety gear, practice safe woodworking, no shortcuts and this is all your responsibility. By taking this project on you agree to abide by the rules.

Step 1:

Download the PDF from HERE

This will give you the diagram and part cutouts you need.

Step 2:

Gather and sharpen all your tools. You will need at a minimum:

Wood Chisels
Scroll Saw or Band Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Files
Strips of good sandpaper 150 grit
Belt Sander
Hammer
Hack Saw
Carpenters Vice with very flat jaws
Back saw or Japanese flex saw
Drill or drill press
Screwdriver
Planer
Wood Glue

Step 3:

Choose 3 boards ( I like to mix the wood for contrast).

Board 1 - will be for the body, grips and some interior pieces. It should be 12"x 6" x 1/4" thick
Board 2 - Is for the slides and trigger. I should be 12" x 4" x 3/8" thick
Board 3 - Is for the trigger locks and slide locks as well as the rubber band "wheel". 6" x 3" x 1/8" thick

NOTE:::: PAY ATTENTION TO THE THICKNESS. THEY ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

Step 4:

Print out the PDF and cut out the images and pieces pasting them to the correct board.

NOTE::: ON THE PICTURES YOU WILL SEE MEASUREMENTS IN PENCIL. IGNORE THEM PLEASE

The slides, trigger and hammer should be a hard wood.

The holes should be drilled before you cut. I used a drill press because the holes have to be perfectly straight.
I also did not drill out the large hole for the safety switch. I just didn't like it.

The doubled up piece is so your body and grips match. One slide is different since it has notches and the ejection port. So once you cut it out separate them before you proceed.

Step 5:

Cut out your pieces and keep things STRAIGHT and FLAT. I cannot emphasize this enough. Sand edges and round the edges on the top of the slides.

Sand and smooth each piece. Be careful not to remove to much material. When you are satisfied… Move on to next step.

Step 6:

The trigger and the front slide block will take some patience and a sharp chisel. These pieces actually attach to the slide. The top of each piece is full thickness 3/8" and the bottom is trimmed down to 1/4". I used a chisel to thin them down. I also used some bad words.

These pieces slide on the body parts. They need to be shorter than the barrel block when assembling, so more trimming might be needed.

DO NOT GLUE THE BARREL TO THE BLOCK

The rest of the pieces can be placed as shown.

Once the glue sets…. Its time to work on the slide…

Step 7:

IMPORTANT NOT TO GET GLUE WHERE THE SLIDE WILL SLIDE.

Place the right side slide in the forward position. Line up the parts using the page one from the PDF.
Glue the trigger and the front barrel block to the slide as shown. YES I USE A PIN NAILER TOO

MORE TOMORROW….

What size rubber bands should one use for this project?