[Furnone]

I don’t know where you live, but a search on Facebook marketplace in Connecticut brings up about 6 Delta, “old iron” 6x48 sanders around $300. I have had one of these for about 50 years and I use it frequently. It has a dust collection connector that works fairly well depending on what is being sanded.

 

[rhodessam]

Have you considered the used equipment market? Determining how you will use it now. How much space do you have? What might I do in the future with it as I gain skills? Thicker material either takes more time or needs more HP. I have owned a Craftsman 4 x 36/9 disc. It did just fine for my father in law for 40 years and me for 10. I bought 3 - Delta 6 x 48 /12 disc in a high school auction. Kept the best one vintage 1981. I went from 1/2 HP to 1.5 HP with a similar footprint. Generally I don't need the bigger one. But sometimes it is nice to have. It does have dust collection which was a plus. But I have less than $ 500 in it. I would consider the used market. Ask them for a video of it in use.

 

[webbstan611]

Does it have a dust port and if so, does it actually collect dust?

When the belt is horizontal can the end be used like a spindle sander on curved surfaces?

I don't think that would be a safe practice for this tool.

 

[Bill98502]

Does it have a dust port and if so, does it actually collect dust?

When the belt is horizontal can the end be used like a spindle sander on curved surfaces?

My 4x36 Ryobi belt sander captures some dust. I have had it apart several times attempting to improve the dust capture. It was designed to split the vacuum between the sanding disk and the belt. Dust collection at the belt is OK, but not at the disk. Interesting question about using the end of the belt as a spindle sander. I have used the end, but it's not much of a proper spindle sander.

 

[DaveS2]

I replaced my "exploding" Harbor Freight 4x36 disk/belt sander about 2 years ago with the Ryobi 4x36 model and I use it constantly in my shop. I added an auxiliary table on the belt arm since I use that predominantly and in the vertical position. I thought about getting the Rikon but decided that for all the work I do, the 4"x36" meets all my needs without taking up the additional space. I also have the 1"x30" belt sander from HF and so far its worked perfectly. I also have an oscillating spindle sander that has a belt sander attachment and even that feature doesn't get a lot of work. The spindles, yes; the belt sander, no. I believe that what you choose to buy is determined by what you actually need and what space allocation you have. For example, I have a Jet 6" Long bed jointer and it sits mostly unused most of the time. I rarely need to do long timber dimensioning and know that for 99% of my shop work a bench top Rikon would fill the bill nicely.But I have the long bed so until I decide to part with it, it will sit in the shop collecting dust most of the time. So, bigger is not always better. Get what you need to accomplish the work you do.

 

[WoodenDreams]

Seems like your concerned about the 4x36 benchtop sander. Whether it can do what you'd like it to do. And really don't want the expense of the 6x48 benchtop belt sander. I'd ask myself, what do you want to sand with it... Then purchase accordingly.

I got my Craftsmans 4x36 sander, new in 1995. It did everything I asked it to do. And I wore it out the, 4x36. Gave it away to one of my step-sons, he's still using it. The reason I went with the 6x48, I make Memorial Urns. I do a lot of sanding, 5 1/2" to 7" wide pieces, from 5 1/2" to 8" long. I thought the 6x48 benchtop sander would handle them quicker. Verses my V-Surface Drum sander.

Sometimes you may feel the need for: Detail sander, 1/4 Sheet sander, 5" or 6" Orbital sander, 3"x21" or 4"x24" portable belt sander and 4x36 sander or 6" disc sander.
You may find all you need is the 4"x36" sander with 6" disc & a 4"x24" portable sander for the larger panels of wood, plus the Detailer Sander. This combo of three sanders worked fine for me (15 years). I didn't start getting the larger tools & sanders till I retired.

 

[rwe2156]

I had a Delta 4x6”. Definitely a toy.

I have a RIKON 6x10. A step up but not what I would consider a quality machine. I was going to buy the Central Machinery but this came up on sale. The table is a disaster, almost impossible to adjust so I have to leave it set at 90.

Dust collection on the disc is very good, on the belt, not as good.

Grizzly makes a nice looking 6x12, but it’s hard to justify $1k for a sander. Had it to do over I would buy a Grizzly 12” disc ($325). I don’ t use the belt sander much and could edge sand on the table saw, or build a jig for a belt sander.

Grizzy makes a 6x10 that looks substantially better than the Rikon.

But more to your question, those belt sanders aren’t really edge sanders, unless you could rig up a table that runs the length. If you really need an edge sander, I’ve seen several DIY’s that don’t look that hard to build.

Mike Farrington sells a tapered sanding disc for a table saw. Have yet to buy one, but it’s on my list. Double Taper Sanding Disc — mike farrington

 

[rhodessam]

When buying tools new it's a you get what you pay for type thing Taiwan makes the majority of the new tools you will be looking at and a lot of them are they same thing with different names on them. And now they will be higher priced once new tariffs hit the stores inventories. Your bargains are in the used market but if you don't know how or don't want to learn how to work on your tools then go buy a new one...soon. A tool with a belt driven motor will almost always be a more substantial tool than a direct drive tool at least in the area we are talking about.

 

[tisha.lane317]

Could you expand on why belt driven designs would be better than a direct drive design?

When buying tools new it's a you get what you pay for type thing Taiwan makes the majority of the new tools you will be looking at and a lot of them are they same thing with different names on them. And now they will be higher priced once new tariffs hit the stores inventories. Your bargains are in the used market but if you don't know how or don't want to learn how to work on your tools then go buy a new one...soon. A tool with a belt driven motor will almost always be a more substantial tool than a direct drive tool at least in the area we are talking about.

 

[bandit571]

Have found that a belt drive allow things to stall a bit, IF one presses too hard....without affecting the motor itself....at least on the 4" x 36" one I have in the shop

As for using the rounded end where the sanding belt goes around the idler roller...

That would depend on if the radii match each other,,,

 

[rhodessam]

Could you expand on why belt driven designs would be better than a direct drive design?

This is a little difficult to explain -simply. My opinions are factually and experientially developed. But I will try. A belt driven tool uses a motor manufactured independent of the tool. Most of the direct drive tools the motor is incorporated into the tool. A motor made by itself is built to a design type, such as frame, HP, speed, environment (OPD, tefc, cont duty, etc) and then the load and HP is rated accordingly and by a more precise standard. Motors incorporated into a tool, first off are rarely replaceable independent of the tool and are built that way for economy. The design and rating of the motor are done by the manufacturer of the tool. A motor HP rating is derived by the electricity consumed. Horsepower(hp)= Voltage x Amperage x % EFF x power factor x 1.73/746. Most electric motor manufacturers follow a standard protocol for ratings. Most tool manufacturers incorporating motors in the their tools rate them their own way and will market them using the start up amperage and not the normal running amperage thus showing their tools motor to be of a higher HP. All electric motors pull more amperage on startup sometimes twice the amps of normal running. Using the higher amp draw is misleading and is characteristic of a manufacturer misleading customers. If you look at the badge or plate on the motor it will tell you characteristics of the motor, HP, voltage, frame, etc. On the direct drive units if they are honest it will have a number under the HP. If not it will say SPL or special and there is your lie.
In my experience working at places that sell and repair equipment of this type the equipment with a belt drive has mostly been the better type of equipment over a direct drive. Belt driven equipment usually cost more and last longer performing more reliably. I have both in my shop. Some tools like a bench grinder in a shop will almost always be direct drive because the motor is the tool. Hope this helps.

 

[rhodessam]

Have found that a belt drive allow things to stall a bit, IF one presses too hard....without affecting the motor itself....at least on the 4" x 36" one I have in the shop

As for using the rounded end where the sanding belt goes around the idler roller...
View attachment 3914334
That would depend on if the radii match each other,,,

That in itself could be considered a safe thing if the belt slips because of too much load and is another thing in favor of belt drive. I wouldn't want a direct drive lawn mower for that reason.

 

[tisha.lane317]

Ahh almost acts like a clutch in a way... Makes sense!

Have found that a belt drive allow things to stall a bit, IF one presses too hard....without affecting the motor itself....at least on the 4" x 36" one I have in the shop

As for using the rounded end where the sanding belt goes around the idler roller...
View attachment 3914334
That would depend on if the radii match each other,,,

 

[rhodessam]

Ahh almost acts like a clutch in a way... Makes sense!

Sort of. A clutch is designed to cut out. Most belts aren't going to slip unless you really get it in an excessive bind. If you have multiple belts and get in a bind you are more likely to trip the motor overload.