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What should I sell my Unisaw for?

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5.4K views 20 replies 18 participants last post by  tvrgeek  
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#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm moving on to a Sawstop, and will be selling my Unisaw which I've owned for about 5 years. Don't know what to sell it for. I'm in Orange County, California.
The specs:
Model 32-802, new bearings, 3HP motor, 240v
Fence: Unifence, cut to 32" max width of cut., with the Peachtree upgraded Uni-T-fence + the old delta fence which I use for routing.
Delta add-on splitter with kickback pawls
Also my folding outfeed table which I love and works great. (based on a design I found on Lumberjocks)
3 inserts.
A bit wonky: I used 3" angle iron to mount the Unifence, and the outfeed table.
Missing: Original motor cover (using plywood replacement), and original access panel which now has an mdf replacement

Not trying to make a killing, just want to sell for a reasonable price fairly quickly. I bought it for $600 without a fence, because I already had the Unifence, and spent a couple hundred on upgrades.
What are your ideas on pricing? Thanks.

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#2 ·
Take a look at the various on-line auction sites. They usually have some. Otherwise run a search for "unisaw for sale" and see what comes up. It looks to be in good shape but it depends on how much of a market there is locally.
 
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#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Whatever you think the market will bear around you, and you're willing to take in the timeframe you're looking to sell it in.

This might help https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/search/tla?query=unisaw

List it for $100 and I bet it will be gone by end of day tomorrow. List it for $1200 and you might have it for a while. Seems like $650-$850 would be a decent range based on others for sale around that area, depending on how fast you want it gone
 
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#7 ·
A new Sawstop won't come with a Uni-Fence.

I really like the high-low option of the original fence on my UF. The PeachTree fence would be a nice, convenient option for a sacrificial fence (rabbeting, etc), and one of the shorter versions would make a good short fence for cross-cutting.

Selling the Unisaw without the Uni-fence will reduce its value considerably.

I personally don't believe the Sawstop is worth it. YMMV.

Andy
 
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#11 ·
Jack et al. Yes, 600-700 sounds about right.

I like my Unisaw. So why Sawstop? Safety feature is #1. But apart from that, I want a saw with a true riving knife. The Delta add-on splitter works…but it is a pretty mediocre design. Someone on this site marketed a riving knife kit (some time ago) that could be installed on a Unisaw. Could never track him down. I've also tried the micro-splitter, which works, but I'm ready to go with a saw that's properly designed for this feature.

The Unifence will go with the Unisaw. Sorry that it must be so. Two steps forward, and one step back.
 
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#16 ·
The Delta add-on splitter works…but it is a pretty mediocre design.
- Sark
Click to expand...
Are you referring to the disappearing splitter or some other one? I ask because I have the disappearing splitter on mine and love it… much better than the traditional splitter/guard combo and easy to drop when doing non-through cuts. Unfortunately, they are only available for Unisaws, and only right-tilt ones at that.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#17 ·
IMHO:
Insurance companies are forcing extreme liability rates on commercial shops not using Sawstop. Used commercial table saw (Unisaw) prices are suffering, and they are practically flooding the local AZ CL. We always have 3-6 listed for sale.

Good used 3HP 1PH left tilt Unisaw with unifence that doesn't need new bearings, or belts; will sell for $500-900 depending on condition, and accessories. The 5HP machines are rare and usually get an extra $100-$200. Newer right tilt machines are also more rare and higher priced. Have bought two 40+ year old Unisaw this year for < $200 as rebuild projects. Sold a machine with full disassembly restoration and repaint for $850 recently.

One key is market timing. If you want a quick sale, ask lower price. If you can afford to wait a few weeks, try asking higher.

TBH - All the sales listed above $1000 in AZ have been listed on our CL for many months. They will likely go unsold forever till the owner realizes the used table saw market prices on old cast iron have dropped, plus I can get a brand new Grizzly G1023 with riving knife for $1500. Hence paying more than $1000 for used table saw in a hobby shop is almost silly, especially on saw without splitter or riving knife?

FWIW: some used tool pricing suggestions for buyers and sellers.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/CaptainKlutz/blog/129795

Best Luck.
 
#18 ·
Crap o'Dear man. Don't be a moron! Keep it and use both. That unisaw x5 is an awesome saw. You'll regret the day you ever got rid of it. I've seen Sawstops and they are real damn nice, but that x5… It's one of the last made in the USA. You've got it set up perfect with the router table. I mean, it's awesome. Stop and think about it!!!
 
#19 ·
Crap o Dear man. Don t be a moron! Keep it and use both. That unisaw x5 is an awesome saw. You ll regret the day you ever got rid of it. I ve seen Sawstops and they are real damn nice, but that x5… It s one of the last made in the USA. You ve got it set up perfect with the router table. I mean, it s awesome. Stop and think about it!!!

- BurlyBob
Click to expand...
But you buy a Sawstop for a function not because it's real nice. The Powermatic, Unisaw and sawstop are all real nice but the SAWSTOP has the safety feature..

Captain just brought information that some and some may have not known …
 
#21 ·
I have been researching the daylights of saws looking to upgrade from my modified contractor saw. I want a real riving knife, better dust collection, and bigger and heavier for less vibration.

We can try on $30 shoes. We can test drive $30,000 cars, but we have to buy a $3000 saw on specs and faith.

Good news, even a $1500 Grizzly is a pretty good saw with many happy campers. But my nit-picking comes down to only the Powermatic 2000 or SawStop. I can't really afford either ( $3100 or about $3600) but can even less afford to buy one I am not happy with. The only sub-3 HP saw I would consider is the Powermatic 1000.

The riving knife is probably the most important safety feature of the saw, but I put dust collection even higher. You can live without a couple of fingers, you can't live without a couple of lungs. Canister type main collector and additional ambient air filter is a must. I suffered using face masks for years, never happy, never comfortable. Finally, I have control and it makes work far more pleasurable.

Modified: Enclosed in cabinet, multiple ZCIs with MJ splitters, DIY splitters and modifications to the OEM splitter/guard. A tweak to the fence. Only 1 3/4 HP but can rip 3 inch red oak with the right 24 tooth Diablo thin kerf. It could not with a combo blade or full width.
 
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