The old adage, "A poor carpenter blames his tools" comes to mind, but then my Grandfather always said, "buy a good tool once and it will be worth the price, buy a cheap tool twice, and your money is wasted, but the somewhere along the way my wife learned on of my father's saying and shrieks, "WHADDA YA think we're made of money. SO there…. if what other people say is important then now you've got three more to weigh.

I found my Ridgid 3612 as a floor model. I've put a fair bit of money into it with blades router table, and endless jigs etc. I've been very pleased with it and have turned out some very nice pieces with it. No matter what tool you've got you've gotta have good technique to go with it. buy what makes sense for where you are in you work and the time you can play with you toys.

 

i don't remember which magazine it was.
they did a test just a few months ago with about 5-6 portable saws,dewalt,bosch,craftsman,ridgid,etc.
the bosch was considered the best by a slim margin…with the ridgid taking the final decision
because it was 150.00 less.

 

While I wouldn't consider myself an expert, in my opinion unless you need the mobility of a portable saw choose the cabinet saw every time.

Most of the saws I've used have been work site saws, and even the best direct drive portable can't provide the accuracy and flexibility of a decent cabinet. I bought on of the Ridgid 4511, which is considered a hybrid, and I enjoy it immensely.

 

I have a Ridgid 3650 that has been exceptional I think. Boise…it came from HD. If I had to choose between PC or Ridgid, I would take the Ridgid. Just my HO.

 

I've looked at the new P/C saw at Lowes. I like what I see in the store but can't find any reviews on it yet. Till I get more info on it I'll just keep my Delta.

 

Thanks folks. I really appriciate all this input.

Brandon

 

First of all, what wood were you cutting?
Second what is your budget.

I suggest you to stay away from both of them

I don't want you to make the same mistake like you have with the 10" table saw you have right now,
unless you REALLY NEED it portable.

 

I think people are getting the traditional contractor saw and the jobsite (benchtop saw on rollers) mixed up.

 

I have used the hitachi which I beleive is the same as the PC and I didn't like it at all, I would go towards the rigid

 

"Suddenly it jammed back into the opening infront of the blade." Not sure from your description what happened here. You did have at least the OEM insert in, right? What opening was in front of the blade? Were you ripping a very thin piece?

You can measure the spindle alignment with a good square in relation to the table saw's top and miter gauge slot. If you damaged the spindle, a mounted blade will no longer spin true. Sounds like the smoke was from binding wood. If your saw is a belt drive, the belt could be shredding and making a noise as you describe. I have an old Rockwell TS (retired) that made an awful noise when the belts start to go. The belts had "teeth/gears" on them and if they started to wear out they would scream.

Your choice of saw will depend on many factors. I am not a fan of portable saws, but if I had to pick, I go with the PC.

 

Ridgid is where I would go… I've been pleased with all of my Ridgid tools and their warranty is "priceless"

 

Its also nice to move up the food chain to a saw with a quality fence. I can't wait to upgrade my contractors saw.

 

ridgid makes some really good tools and all there tools come with a lifetime warranty

 

Porter cable, I had nothing but good with them

 

"If you weren't looking at price, which is the superior saw?"

I personally like option #3, Grizzly. At the beginning of summer (May 2010) I had ordered the 10" Grizzly G1023RLW for $1175, but after waiting because of an extended backorder delay (this was a new release) I ended up changing my order to an in-stock 10in. G0690 for $1150 and ordered the T10222 router table attachment for $375 to complete my dream machine.

All said and done including shipping, I paid a total of $1713 for my "Ultimate Tablesaw" w/ router table, and that was TWICE what I had originally budgeted for in a tablesaw. Now that I am several months down the road of ownership, I HAVE NO REGRETS AT ALL. I guess I should show you the tablesaw that the new Grizzly replaced so here it is. At 58 years of age I figured that I did NOT want to go through replacing the tablesaw AGAIN and wanted something that would last the rest of my life. FWIW, I think this Grizzly fits the bill. I believe what everyone on LJ has said over and over again, and that is buy a cabinet saw IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, no if's and's or but's about it.

 

I would go with the R4511 from ridgid, if you can find it on sale its 0nly $300 and IS THE BEST SAW FOR THE MONEY!!

 

In this case, it's more a matter of which saw type best suits you than brand name quality/loyalty. The Ridgid R4510 is a portable jobsite saw, whereas the Porter Cable PCB270TS is a full size stationary saw. Unless you NEED the portability of a jobsite saw, the stationary saws tend to have all the advantages from mass/stability, torque, table area, space in front of the blade, quiet/smooth operation, materials of construction, to long term reliability.

Other stationary candidates in this price range are the soon to be available Ridgid R4512 and the nearly identical Craftsman 21833, allegedly both made by Dayton.

 

You-cant-go-wrong-with-porter-cable

 

The new Ridgid R4512 new table saw will coming out,
it looks like the same design like the Craftsman 21833. But who knows.

 

I have the Ridgid R4511 Granite TS…I love it…my uncle has a PC TS and a Craftsman…and I think the Ridgid is the better saw…I have used all 3 and I feel the R4511 is solid, sturdy, easy to use, and the right price.

 

ridgid hands down… this one answer may make you take it…. LIFETIME WARRANTY!

 

If ridigid made crappy tools and put a lifetime warranty on them then they would have gone out of business by now

 

I get the feeling there's a lot of confusion and misinformation in this thread. It's worth mentioning again…one of these is a portable jobsite saw with a direct drive universal motor, the other is a full size cast iron stationary saw with a belt drive induction motor. It's like comparing a 4 cylinder mini truck to a one ton diesel duelie. How many of you are intending to recommend a portable jobsite saw over a full size stationary saw to someone who didn't mention portability as a requirement?

 

Every gentlemen here has their own opinion. The stationary saws such as the PC pictured above is gonna give you stability and weight that will makes cut wood a cinch. I would personally go in, play with the saws. Get an idea of the touch, how smooth the cranks turn, the feel of the fence if it seems solid and then ask the sales associate to turn it on. You will know which one you want in the end.

I own a Rigid R4511 with a granite countertop. I love the feel of it and won't be trading up anytime soon.

Before that, I had a mastercraft benchsaw mounted on a stand that would dance across the floor if you were not standing on it. I know if it would have flipped over, it would have chased me around my shop.

 

Whenever I have a question of what tool is the best I go straight to my "secret" advisor. A place where hundreds of people have actually bought used and reviewed their purchase. Amazon.com!! I just sort the products as best selling and then start my research by reading customer reviews on whatever it is I am buying.

First type in table saw:

Then sort by best selling:

Now just start with the first table saw and read what actual customers are saying about that particular saw:

Best selling table saws on Amazon.com

I have made great purchased doing my research this way.

Best of luck
Peter